'59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

[Rick K]

Hi, <br /><br />Been browsing the forum for about a week now. Man, there is a TON of information in here. <br /><br />I'm hoping to get some info: I fired up my dad's boat tonite. Ran terrible, smoked like heck. By adjusting the dials on the engine, I got it to smooth out, It fires right up, but still smokes pretty bad.<br /><br />I used 3 gal. of fresh gas + 1/2 qt. 30w oil. Is this motor shot? The plugs are new, gapped to .030<br /><br />Anyone have any suggestions, or is this motor now an anchor? It hasn't been started since May, and then who knows how long before that. The red dial was pretty loose, so I tightened it, then backed it off to the middle of the scale.<br /><br />Also, what should the compression specs be on this motor?<br /><br />Thanks<br />Rick K

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

Rick.... Don't be using 30w oil. Use the new 50/1 TCW-III outboard oil. You can use the 50/1 mixture in that engine (1pt of 50/1 oil to 6gal gas), a octane rating of 87 will be fine.<br /><br />You may have the carb out of adjustment. The adjustment procedure follows.<br /><br />(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs) <br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns. <br /><br />Setting the high and low needle valves properly: <br /><br />NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.<br /><br />(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting. <br /><br />(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. <br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

 

[Rick K]

Re: '59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

Joe,<br />Thanks for the quick reply. 1 PINT of oil per SIX gallons??? **** . I used 1 pint for 3 gallons of oil. No wonder we have the EPA showing up at the house... <br /><br />I'll remix gas/oil tomorrow. I could have sworn the tank said 1 qt 30W per 6 gallons, or 25:1. Hmmmm, I might have the wrong tank.<br /><br />Oh well, more tomorrow.

 

[rolmops]

Re: '59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

Hello.<br />Your tank says the right thing for 1959 30 weight oil. Joe Reeves means tcw-3 oil which was developed for water cooled engines and is very different from plain old engine oil. I would be the last one to question Joe's know how but in my old 57 and 59 engines the leanest I go is 1:32.These old bearrings really do need a bit more lubrication compared to our modern ones,but tcw-3 is a must.<br />happy boating.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: '59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

Hello<br /> joe is right. 50 to one will work fine with modern tcw-3 oil. as far as the rings and bearings the motors today use the same as the motors of the 50's one of the big differnces is then most engines used a 3 ring piston and now most use a two ring piston. the reason was to transfer heat from the piston to the cylinder wall. the piston rings have to do that as well as seal the hole<br />good luck and keep posting<br /> and one thing I did not see. dont try the wide open thing on a flusher. you must have it in a large tank or mounted on the transom.

 

[ezeke]

Re: '59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

I think that if you can manage it, you can make those adjustments better while tied securely to a dock. <br /><br />You really should have a test prop otherwise.

 

[Rick K]

Re: '59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

Hi All,<br /><br />Went and got new gas AND some new oil, and it runs great! Only a little smoke now. I suppose I'll just run it till it gets all the kinks out from sitting so long.<br /><br />All I have to do is walk toward the key, it it turns over! <br /><br />I'm not an outboard motor guy, but i can sure build a heck of a chevy engine. I think I'm just gonna take this motor to someone who does this stuff and let them handle the fine tuning.<br /><br />Can anyone recomend someone in the Tonawanda, NY area?<br /><br />Thanks again,<br /><br />One happy boater guy

 

[ledgefinder]

Re: '59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

You may want to check (or change) the impeller on the water pump, at least if you don't know when it was changed last. If it goes, the first you'll know of it is when the motor overheats/seizes. Those fat OMC ones will last a long time, but not forever.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: '59 Johnson 18hp FD-13R

Hi Rick,<br /> As for mechs in your area, try my buddy Walt Chute. Not sure if he's in the phone book or not. He bought a marina about a year ago and is quite knowledgable about the oldsters...<br /> If you can't find him in the book, drop me a line and I'll see if I've got his card somewhere...<br />- Scott