64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

[sbump52]

I can only get the lower unit to open up about a 1/2 inch, not enough to get a socket or wrench on the splice connector. Shouldn't it open more than that? Also there are no screw driver slots, so it will have to be a wrench. Screw driver slots I might have a chance at. Any other secrets to know about? Have read about the water tube that needs to stay in the power head.

 

[iwombat]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

It's possible your drive shaft is binding up a little. Put the LU bolts back in a few turns (to keep it from dropping out) and pull the starter rope a couple of times. That'll usually get the drive shaft unbound.

Edit: before that try shifting into . . . um reverse? (I always overthink it and get it backwards). That'll drop the LU down further.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

The shift rod connector screw has to come all of the way out to finish the job. It's easier with the bottom screw than the top one. Have the gearcase section (of the shift rod) up when you reassemble and spread the connector slightly beforehand.

 

[F_R]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

The shift rod connector screw has to come all of the way out to finish the job. It's easier with the bottom screw than the top one. Have the gearcase end up when you reassemble and spread the connector slightly beforehand.

Before starting, put the shift in forward (twirl the prop). That pulls the shift rod up. Then as you lower the gearcase allow the shift lever to go to reverse. Gearcase in forward (rod up) + lever in reverse (upper rod down) adds up to just enough room to get a 1/4" drive socket in there. A 3/8" drive probably is too fat.

 

[mchin]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

there is a shift adjust nut/bolt that is looks like a nut with a stub coming out of it, if you loosen it, you maybe able to get a little more stretch, but overall it's a tight fit between the foot and leg. this nut is located (facing the motor) on the left and front part of the motor, this pin sticking, prevents the motor from starting in gear.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

I sure like the older engines with the nice little oval cover No contortions required

 

[ezeke]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

Come on, guys, a screwdriver works fine and you can hold the screw to a standard screwdriver with some masking tape to put it back. It's not rocket science.

 

[sbump52]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

Got her done, impeller replaced. Drive shaft was stuck just a little. Used some wood shim and drove them between the halves gently and unstuck it. I agree though that a little oval would have made it a lot easier. Amen on the older 10hp motors. More substansial (sp) lower unit. I have a 55 Johnson 10hp. Anyway, it won't start but will fire if I put fuel/oil mix in carb. Took carb off and cleaned it up. Needle was stuck, not letting fuel in bowl. Float looked ok and floated. Had to pull the needle out of the orifice it was gunked in. The float bowl had a little crude in it also. Was a little water in the lower unit also. That may be another day. I will get it running then let the owner decide if he wants to re-seal the lower unit. My 55 leaks a little even after a re-seal.

 

[sbump52]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

Oh, by the way, the connector nuts don't have slots in them for some reason. Mine do on my 55 and it is much easier to remove them with a good screw driver.

 

[sbump52]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

OK fellas got one for you. Replaced the impeller and changed the lower unit oil. Got the carb rebuilt and the little motor runs and idles like a top. Now however there is lower unit oil coming out of the water intake on the side of the lower leg. What's up with that? I thought it was some I might have spilled later, and wiped it up, but it keeps coming back. After about two days after wiping it up there is enough to run back on the plate above the prop. Any ideas??

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

Are you sure it's the water intake hole and not the normal drain hole? And is it fresh black LU oil or white goo which is the combination of unburned gas/oil, exhaust and water which is normal? If you check the LU oil is it now milky or is it still black?

 

[sbump52]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

Sure its water intake. It is has a little plate with two screws located on the front of the leg. And it is lower unit oil. Haven't drained the lower unit yet. I guess I should do that first to see what comes out.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

Is it an oval plate about 2" x 1"? if so it is the shift release linkage and if the gasket is missing it will leak there...

 

[sbump52]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

This little short motor doesn't have the oval shift shaft connection cover plate. Where it is coming out is on the front side of the leg, has holes with little scoops that helps with the water intake. I am going to drain the lower unit oil and see if water comes out. What I can't understand is how it can come out above the fill hole.

 

[sbump52]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

Drained the lower unit oil and a lot of water came out. I will get a lower unit seal kit and replace the seals. Got a seal puller now from from when I did my old motor so it should go easier this time. Looking at the prop shaft seal/bushing it has some indentations in it. Does that end piece come out separate? Also, do I remove the phillips screw now or wait until I have the lower part of the lower unit off? I am going to wait until tomorrow until I can get an impact screwdriver for those 6 bolts. They are stuck and I hear it is easier with an impact screwdriver. The lower unit oil wasn't milky, but it was darker than when I put it in a month or so ago. The water was clear and the oil didn't appear to be mixed with it.

 

[Mandrake35]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

I had the same problem with my lower end. fishing line had chewed away at the seal a little. So you know.....there are two different sizes of seals for this motor. I have a 65, and it takes slightly smaller outside diameter seals than the later models. I know this because I foolishly tried to press a newer one in, and split the gearcase head. DO NOT make this expensive mistake. The shiftshaft seal is held in with a brass bushing....a search on here will help you getting that one out.

 

[sbump52]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

I ordered the kit from Sierra from iboats. I hope I get the correct ones.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

The gear oil leaking through to the secondary water intake just above the a/v plate has to come from either a bad driveshaft seal or a bad bearing housing gasket just below the bearing carrier. Either would allow the gear oil to escape and reach the water tube that runs through the lower unit into the waterpump.

 

[sbump52]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

Thanks Ezeke. I looked at the diagram and it doesn't appear to have a drive shaft seal like my 55 10hp did, but a bearing gasket. There is a prop seal like the old one, but the picture of the kit didn't look like one was in it. Hope there is one, we'll see. For 28.00 bucks I hope so.

 

[Mandrake35]

Re: 64 9.5 lower unit shift shaft connection

When I got my kit, it had two identical seals. One for the Prop shaft, and one for the driveshaft below the waterpump. It also came with a new o-ring to seal the shift rod. The spaghetti seal that came with it was woefully undersized, but needed some rtv anyway so it turned out okay. It also had a gasket for under the water pump housing, a grommet for the water tube, and washers for the shift pin, and drain plug. I think thats all you get, but it did the trick on mine. I don't know what the indentations are for on the gearcase head, but it is one piece, and expensive. You can find good diagrams of your motor at shop.evinrude.com You can only go back to 1968 but it's better than nothing. The seals for a 68 are too big for my motor. I have a 1965 Have fun tinkering