'65 Evinrude 18hp Fastwin WOES!! Help, please???

[jbjennings]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Sorry,
You can't rehub it yourself. Bite the bullet and take it to a prop shop. It's not nearly as simple as it looks, and requires a special press to do it at all.

 

[mydejavooo]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Sorry,
You can't rehub it yourself. Bite the bullet and take it to a prop shop. It's not nearly as simple as it looks, and requires a special press to do it at all.

I thought those kits were made to be installed easily...without the need to take it in to a shop? I guess I stand corrected. Thanks for the advice, and I guess I will be visiting the boat doctor tomorrow.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Michigan-Prop-Hub-Kit-x2-A-Pair-/320765447149?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4aaf1c4bed

DeJa

 

[lindy46]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

I will pretty much tackle any job on an old motor, but for a spun hub, I take it to a prop shop where they have the proper equipment.

 

[mark in new jersey]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Should you even bother to re-hub a 40+ year old 9x11? A brand new one is...what? $80 bucks?

 

[mydejavooo]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Yep...my options are to buy a new one online somewhere, or send it off to have it rehubbed. The closest place that does the work is $150 miles away, so I would have to ship it off, pay the $50bucks plus shipping both ways. So it looks like I would be better off just buying a new one. What a drag.

DeJa

 

[mydejavooo]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Okay.....don't think me a moron here.....but I'm going to ask this question and see what sort of responses I get. Here goes. WHAT IF, a guy were to braze the inner metal hub to the outer housing of the prop on the backside (and yes, it's a bronze prop), and forgo a re-hubbing for now? In theory, the shear pin would give way before there was any resulting damage to the shaft and gear, in the even that the prop strikes anything substantial. I realize this is sort of "redneck" and "bubba", but I CAN'T possibly be the first guy to ever do this, right?? The rubber in the hub is solid...just worn I guess. I dunno. Just a thought.

DeJa

 

[mark in new jersey]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

the only thing I would be concerned with is this: How are you going to apply the brazing rod so that the entire assembly is balanced?

 

[lindy46]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

I believe that motor has a stainless steel drive pin, not a shear pin. The hub is designed to give when you hit something, rather than the pin. Even if you haven't hit an obstruction, that rubber can degrade after 40+ years. If the prop is in otherwise good condition, I wouldn't do a Rube Goldberg on it - I'd just get it re-hubbed. Then (if you don't hit something) it will be good for another 40 years.

 

[mark in new jersey]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

good call.....Evinrude's parts list for that engine does, indeed, call it a "drive pin", not a shear pin.

 

[mydejavooo]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Not getting into a semantic argument by any means, but it is a drive shear pin. It IS intended to shear off in the event of a significant impact....but I digress. I DO think the input provided to this point is invaluable, and the correct repair solution is clear: Have the prop rehubbed... OR....buy a replacement prop. As mentioned by you guys, it WOULD be a poor solution. It MAY work, but anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT. Thank you all for the support, advice, and valuable info!

DeJa

 

[kbait]

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

Re: Update Num-buhhhhh-twoooooooooooooo!!! It's ALIVE!!

I know a few folks who run that sabre 100/1 outboard blend in 50/1 designed motors w/no problems. I also don't think that was the culprit. Weird how it was locked up, and then you could pull it 3 times, then lock up again. I'm wondering if you have something internally loose that got bound, then went back into correct position? I'd probably start the next journey upstream (or upwind) while testing..

Also, timsoutboard.com, or other salvage yards may have an inexpensive used prop.. but will the hub on a used prop last one hour or one decade??

 

[bill artman]

Re: '65 Evinrude 18hp Fastwin WOES!! Help, please???

have a 65 evinrude would like to restore (paint) need some pics any help or sites that have pics thanks

 

[mydejavooo]

Re: '65 Evinrude 18hp Fastwin WOES!! Help, please???

have a 65 evinrude would like to restore (paint) need some pics any help or sites that have pics thanks

Hey Bill! I know this post has grown some mold on it, but do you still have your boat, and did you start a restoration on it? I didn't use my baby at all last year, but I got a wild hair today and started on my boat repair/custom/resto! I pulled the transom out, since the wood was soft. I was a little surprised to see 2 sections of plywood glued together. Pretty sure it's original. I've gutted the interior in order to start from scratch and build a better...classier boat. I think I will have the local metal guy make a piece for the interior side of the transom. This will stiffen things up, plus make it more secure. I'm thinking some diamond plate there or on the backside of the transome. I'm also going to redo the seating and add a floor for more comfort.

I drained the lower unit oil, and it was more of a paste. And it smellled of gear lune. Odd thing though. The oil had a normal bluish gray color and a few drops of RED fluid alongside of the "paste". It was odd. But I'd love to be of any helpxI can. Send me a PM, and we'll get'r done!! Cheers!

DeJa