'71 starcraft restoration

tylerr83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 13, 2008
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142
I purchased a 16' 1971 starcraft aluminum boat about two weeks ago with intentions of restoring it. I picked up the boat/trailer for 300, so i figured even if it doesn't work out, not too much lost. I should also mention that when i say "restore" what i really mean is make the boat seaworthy. Its going to be a duck hunting/fishing boat...so i won't be restoring it to factory condition. So here goes, this is gonna be a long post....

That being said the hull is in decent shape and transom seems very solid....two small holes above the water line that appear to have been for bolts that held a piece of rubber trim molding in place. Not a big deal to fix. However, there is plenty of other work to be done. I obviously need an outboard, need to replace the decking, re-install the stringers, sand/prep/paint the hull and redo all wiring etc... I feel that i have a pretty good plan in place...but I live in ct, and its cold here now, so theres not much i can do outside, or even in my garage wich isn't heated. I have started sanding the hull to remove any non-adherent paint. I do have a few questions, but heres my plan...(in loose chronological order)

1. sand hull to remove flaky paint
2. patch 2 holes above waterline, tighten any loose rivets, and seal rivets and seams with flexible epoxy to prevent future leaks.
3. re-install stringers, and decking. For decking, use 3/4 douglas fir plywood (epoxy resin to both sides and all edges, predrill any holes, including for pedistal seat bases. 2nd coat of epoxy.
4. install decking, and side kicker panels (under gunwhales) seal to edges of hull w/ glass....then glass over entire deck. (top coat will have non-slip additive.)
5. zinc chromate self etching primer for any bare spots on the hull to help paint adhere to bare aluminum. Paint....either dull green or brown...for duck hunting, might not be pretty, but functional
5. mount motor, run wiring, cables, forward controls, etc..

Now for the questions....
All i've owned prior to this is a 14' aluminum jon boat that i used as a duck boat...it only has a 15hp outboard, so i have only a 6 gal. fuel tank. I'm not sure what size tank i should use for this boat....I will have at least a 50hp outboard....up to 85hp. Also, should i consider a below deck fuel tank, or is this not necessary?
Second, The previous owner removed the aluminum stringers by drilling out the old rivets. I am considering re-installing these by tapping the holes in the ribs and using stainless screws with permanent loc-tite to hold in place. Is this ok?
Third, theres no windshield on the boat, and i'm considering leaving it that way because in the fall/winter i'll have a pop-up blind mounted for hunting and the windshield would be in the way....I would consider fabricating some sort of windshield, possibly out of lexan if i could do this in such a way that it would be easily removable.
Finally, I have a wagner power painter that is intended for house paint. I'm not expecting a perfect professional finish, but could i use this with the proper paint on the hull, or should i look for something intended for marine paint?

Ok, thats it...for now at least....any input is definately appreciated....
 

Bondo

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71,116
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

Ayuh,......

Rivets are Way Better than screws for a tinboat,....
You can even get "Closed-end" Poprivets,.... Just Google'm...
seal rivets and seams with flexible epoxy to prevent future leaks.
Gluvit is what you want....
For decking, use 3/4 douglas fir plywood (epoxy resin to both sides and all edges, predrill any holes, including for pedistal seat bases. 2nd coat of epoxy.
If you're going to Epoxy it,.... 1/2" is Plenty,....
seal to edges of hull w/ glass
Nope,.. Don't Do That,.... The Deck sits Near, but Not Tight to the hull..... It'll Crack, both the Epoxy,+ the Aluminum.....
I'm not expecting a perfect professional finish,
Ayuh,... For a Duck Boat,.. Just Flat, no gloss, Rustolium, shot thru your power painter will be Just Fine.....
 

tylerr83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 13, 2008
Messages
142
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

thanks for the input....
few more questions....
should i gulvit the whole inside of the hull, or just any suspect spots?
Also, if glassing the floor to the hull is a bad idea, what can i use to fill that small void so i can spray down the deck after fishing without water pouring between that seam?
Will 1/2'' ply w/ epoxy be good enough to mount pedistal seats to?...thats my major concern
 

Bondo

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Re: '71 starcraft restoration

Ayuh,.....
should i gulvit the whole inside of the hull, or just any suspect spots?
The stuff ain't that Cheap,..... Doing the Seams was Good enough for me,......
Also, if glassing the floor to the hull is a bad idea, what can i use to fill that small void so i can spray down the deck after fishing without water pouring between that seam?
Wash Away,...... It'll just drain to the bottom of the bilge, where you pump it Out....
Will 1/2'' ply w/ epoxy be good enough to mount pedistal seats to?...thats my major concern
As long as you use either a Backerboard, or a small Platform board it'll be just Fine,.... Even with 3/4",.. You should be using some sort of Reinforcement....... ;)

I've got a much larger copy of nearly the Same Hull,.....
Mine's a 21' Islander,..... I used to have a project 180SS that is also the same basic construction,....

Being that you're doing a Duckboat,+ might be into Rocks,....

Pay Close attention to the Outer Most Chine, the outside Corner of the Hull. Where the Side, meets the Bottom......
That Corner is Easy to scrape,+ it's only as thick as the rest of the hull,+ that Ain't thick enough to be tossing on any Rocks.......

It's the Downfall of the Design in My book,.... Search the archives for the thread I posted when mine just Opened right up,+ Split......
 

tylerr83

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Feb 13, 2008
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142
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

I like the idea of using reinforcement...I was planning on doing that anyway....something like a ss plate on the underside w/ some extra wide washers. If i could go w/ just 1/2'' inch ply that would save me a lot of weight
 

Bondo

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Re: '71 starcraft restoration

If i could go w/ just 1/2'' inch ply that would save me a lot of weight
Ayuh,..... Exactly,....... You're starting with a Little boat to begin with.......
 

tylerr83

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Feb 13, 2008
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142
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

It was warm in ct today, so i decided to get a little work in on the hull...i checed for loose rivets, only a couple loose ones on the upper part (well above waterline). Then i filled it with about 2' of water....good news no leaks. However, I did discover on closer inspection a soft spot in the transom, so i went right to work on removing it. Removed all bolts/screws that held it in place. There was one piece of aluminum moulding on top that i took off as well. The old transom is loose, and i'm pretty sure theres nothign else holding it in, other than friction. i was even able to pull it up about 1/2'', but i can seem to get it further than that. Any suggestions in taking it the rest of the way out....(I would like to keep it in one piece if possible to use as a template for fabricating a new one. Also any recomendations on material to fabricate a new one from...i was thinking to sheets of 3/4'' marine ply epoxied/bolted together. Thats what the old one appears to be.
 

Bondo

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Re: '71 starcraft restoration

Any suggestions in taking it the rest of the way out

Ayuh,....

Bars, Blocking, Jacks,.... Whatever it takes......
Even if you have to Cut it,.... The pieces will Still give you a pattern for the replacement.....
i was thinking to sheets of 3/4'' marine ply epoxied/bolted together.
If you're going to Epoxy it,....... Don't Waste your money on Marine Grade,....
CDX will work Just Fine......
 

tylerr83

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Feb 13, 2008
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142
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

DJ,
just to be clear, those are the two openeings that run through the transom, on either side of the motor mounts, on the upper area, to allow water to pass through right?
If thats what it is, I removed them....I'm pretty certain at this point its just friction/pressure holding the old wood in.
 

tylerr83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 13, 2008
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142
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

Got the old transom out this afternoon. Took me a couple hours working by myself. Managed to get it out in two pieces without removing the splashwell. Maybe I can start fabricating a new one tomorrow....
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
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Aug 29, 2001
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Re: '71 starcraft restoration

Remember to cross-grain the wood grain on the plywood pieces you glue/laminate together to make the transom...adds extra strength.
 

tylerr83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 13, 2008
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142
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

Done w/ the transom, just letting the epoxy cure, before i reinstall it. Also picked up an '87 evinrude 50 yesterday in good running condition w/ power t/t, all controls and everything for 500....gotta gluvit the seams in the hull this week so i can reinstall the stringers this weekend
 

tylerr83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 13, 2008
Messages
142
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

question....im getting ready to install the new transom, and shortly after i'll be getting to the stringers/new deck as well as painting the hull....so far i've been working with the boat on the trailer, but i need something more stable to work from....plus i need to turn the boat over to get at the underside of the hull for painting....its fairly heavy even though its aluminum so i'm not sure if it could be lifted/turned over even with a couple guys....
...does anyone have any suggestions for doing this?
 

tylerr83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 13, 2008
Messages
142
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

new transom in...gonna try to add some pics of the progress soon....now to get to the stringers and deck....
 

ryand895

Seaman Apprentice
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Dec 30, 2009
Messages
32
Re: '71 starcraft restoration

My wife and I flipped my 18' Holiday on the lawn with no problems. Had the floor, transom and splashwell out when we did it. It's not as heavy as it looks.
 
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