'74 Chieftain 21' I/O is home, the rebuild begins !

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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The running joke with that cross support beam is that SC builds the boat around it. :lol:

It's your decision if you want to do the replacement that way, it will work fine and after all nobody should be doing jumping jacks up there on top of it.
 

FrankenCub

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Yeah sounds about right lmao. I layed back in the bow thinking HTF am I going to fix that :eek::laugh:
I definitely ain't gonna pull the bow cap to do it so two piece it is. Maybe a fish plate aluminum or stainless strap on the underside would be good too. Screwed up through that it shouldn't ever pull apart.
 

g0nef1sshn

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I replaced that piece with two pieces and carpeted over it to look like one. I also added angle in to make it more solid. If i wasnt on my phone id put a link to that page.
 

Dantana Tin

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FC,
That has been a great concern of mine as well. I have been eyeballing that area as well. I might not be dancing any jigs up there, but at 6.2 and 250lbs just getting up there to connect an anchor to a bow line doesn't even seem feasible. I once contemplated making my 67 holly and open bow (but I have greatly decided against it), but I feel like I may inadvertently do that if I were to crawl up there. I keep trying to think of ways that I could possibly reinforce it. Maybe with some aluminum angle or square tubing?

DT
 

Grandad

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Yeah sounds about right lmao. I layed back in the bow thinking HTF am I going to fix that :eek::laugh:
I definitely ain't gonna pull the bow cap to do it so two piece it is. Maybe a fish plate aluminum or stainless strap on the underside would be good too. Screwed up through that it shouldn't ever pull apart.

Ya, and don't cut it in 2 equal pieces. Make your joint near one end. It'll be much stronger than a joint in the middle and maybe easier to conceal if it's tight to the end. - Grandad
 

64osby

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A 1" x 3" alum angle attached with the wood cut 1/3 - 2/3 should be sturdy enough.
 

Dantana Tin

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64osby,
So there is no need to go the whole length. Is that mainly to reinforce the weakest area which would be the center?
 

FrankenCub

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Thanks for the feedback guys, that's a smart idea offsetting the joint more towards an end. If I remember correctly the only bad section of that piece is the starboard side about 8" worth. The rest is still very much solid. I should be able to cut it off around 12" short of that side and also use the port side as a template to draw out the bad section. This should go fairly easy now that I have a better game plan. And I'd be out working on my mistress if I only had a barn
 

FrankenCub

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FC,
That has been a great concern of mine as well. I have been eyeballing that area as well. I might not be dancing any jigs up there, but at 6.2 and 250lbs just getting up there to connect an anchor to a bow line doesn't even seem feasible. I once contemplated making my 67 holly and open bow (but I have greatly decided against it), but I feel like I may inadvertently do that if I were to crawl up there. I keep trying to think of ways that I could possibly reinforce it. Maybe with some aluminum angle or square tubing?

DT

I won't be up there much either other than tieing off an anchor line but I'm down to 185 now. Be nice to find a winch and davit to mount up there though. Now with the windscreen and frame out of there it's pretty flimsy so I'm thinking I want to keep as much strength in that board as possible just because of the weight and flex already there. Although it may just be the cabin top I'm noticing move about more.
 

Dantana Tin

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Don't know if you were able to see the work that Grandad put into his anchor system on his holly, but that would be one to check out.
 

FrankenCub

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No I haven't seen that, I should go lookin for it. There's no way I'm climbing out the hatch lol, walking around the gunwale wouldn't really be an issue, except for the part of climbing up and down. This body don't work so well anymore lol.
 

64osby

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So there is no need to go the whole length. Is that mainly to reinforce the weakest area which would be the center?

I would have it go the whole width more structure and a uniform look. (as wide as possible)
 

FrankenCub

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I just checked out the anchor installs that Granddad and Dozer did, sweet ! I will sit in the cabin a bit and see if there's a clean way I can keep the rope guide hidden seems the cabin has to be used. I think I should be able to run it right along side the hull. The hatch may prove to be a problem though.
 

North Beach

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Yeah sounds about right lmao. I layed back in the bow thinking HTF am I going to fix that :eek::laugh:
I definitely ain't gonna pull the bow cap to do it so two piece it is. Maybe a fish plate aluminum or stainless strap on the underside would be good too. Screwed up through that it shouldn't ever pull apart.

Go to my restore thread and check out what we did. You have to saw it in half to remove and the new piece just gets made a bit shorter without so much of an angle. There have been MANY conversations here about this cursed piece of wood. Also I forgot to mention earlier, My restore thread will show you how the rear seats work. Your tub and mine are identical except for the cabin
 

FrankenCub

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Go to my restore thread and check out what we did. You have to saw it in half to remove and the new piece just gets made a bit shorter without so much of an angle. There have been MANY conversations here about this cursed piece of wood. Also I forgot to mention earlier, My restore thread will show you how the rear seats work. Your tub and mine are identical except for the cabin

Thanks NB, I checked yours out. She turned out beautiful, I love the colors ! On the floor at the rear seats, are those clips that the seat base hook into ?
 

Dantana Tin

Seaman
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Mar 21, 2015
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NB,
I have been reviewing your Sunchief restoration post and was wondering if you have gotten into the decal sales business. I have been looking for the "powered by Mercruiser drive" decal for my 67 Holly.
 

North Beach

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FC, they look like conduit clips. I'm still searching for a closeup.

DT, No I'm not in the decal sales business. I just set these things up for my restore and decided to help others out by making them available to the Starmada. The powdercoated starcraft logos are fairly expensive as some here will attest.

I can still get the powered by mercruiser decals and I'm thinking about doing another run of the Data Plates and the powdercoated StarCraft logos.
 

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Dantana Tin

Seaman
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Mar 21, 2015
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I have been trying to locate one of the original logos in an attempt to make aluminum casts of the logo. I have tried to locate the data plate for my Holly and found that the company online only had outboard Starcraft data plates. I believe that they could make a custom one for $30.00 so I was going to order it but it was just the Mercruiser drive decal. But I'm trying to see if the hollys had them applied.It's funny that when I was looking for a Starcraft boat I kept seeing the Logos on ebay. Now that I am trying to find one, they've all disappeared. Lol.
 
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