78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

DerekG

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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

Thanks guys, that really means a lot to me. The product is called Herculiner from Menards. Its cost was $25 per quart and I was able to yield 2 coats. I am very excited to see how it holds up to the sometimes harsh boating environment. If it holds up well I may make a separate step by step thread. If not I will make sure as many people as possible know its not a viable alternative so they can learn from my mistake. Hopefully the first statement will be true.

Herculiner - Quart at Menards
 

DerekG

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Mar 22, 2014
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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

So I am needing to mix up some PB tonight but have no cabosil. Will polyester resin thickened with 1/4" chopped glass and talc work and adhere to old ruffed up fiberglass? I will be using it to fill gelcoat cracks and pits that i have ground out with 80 grit and an orbital sander.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

Uhmm Talc is hygroscopic. It will allow water absorption into the thickened resin. I'd advise against using it. For filling gouges and scratches you should use glass bubbles and just a bit of cabosil. This mixture will make a smooth, easy to sand filler that's very water resistant. I know you want to get busy and "Git er Dun!!!" but I'd highly recommend using the correct materials. See if you kind find some of this locally.



It''s basically the same stuff I described. It'll only give you about 15 mins of work time so only mix up small batches so you don't waste it. I thinned mine with a teaspoon of 50/50 mix of acetone/mineral spirits per 1/4 cup of paste to make it flow a bit better.
 

DerekG

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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

I think we have a supplier here in town that carries that same stuff. If you hadn't guessed patience has never been my strong point when it comes to projects like this. More focus on doing it right the first time than daydreaming about the lake :)
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

Nice work! Wood tipped me off to your thread, because I'm interested in your use of a bedliner product to protect the keel. That's a genius idea! It looks very nice, too. Does the Herculiner dry/cure to a hard consistency, or is still a bit rubbery? We beach our boat and it's showing a bit of wear on the keel, but the commercially available keel guards seem ridiculously overpriced to me. This looks like a pretty good solution and I'm seriously considering giving it a try, too. My hesitation centers around questions about how well it will hold up and whether it eventually could be removed (if it doesn't wear well).

I'm feeling very tempted to try it....

Thanks again for sharing your idea!

Jim
 

DerekG

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Mar 22, 2014
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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

The more the merrier, welcome. I stumble up the bed liner solution while looking at keel guard reviews on another site and seemed like a great solution. The Herculiner product does seem to stay a bit rubbery which may actually end up being a good thing since it can flex slightly as well as expand and contract with the boat. I know other brands cure very hard which is great for metal that doesn't flex but i was nervous it may crack over time due to the rigidity of it. I plan on having the boat lake worthy by the 4th of July so hopefully I can let everyone know how it holds up, but the true test will be next spring after a summer full of boating and freezing temps all winter. As far as how permanent it is, it seems to be VERY permanent and VERY sticky going on which is a good thing as long as it last. The only way I could see it coming off is with a very sharp putty knife, a lot of time and some very sore arms. I will definitely be making a durability update once the boating season is over this year. Usually middle to end of September.
 

DerekG

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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

By the way Wood, the 3M marine filler worked great. Went on smooth and sands like a dream. Thanks for the suggestion. Currently working on the cap getting it ready for primer and paint.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

Yeah, the 3M Premium Filler is the best filler I've found next to making your own. Kinda Pricey but if you don't have the fixin's to make your own, it's the only way to go!!!!;)

Did you thin it a bit, like I suggested??
 
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DerekG

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Mar 22, 2014
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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

I was going to thin it but i figured i would try it as is on a few spots and found it pretty easy to spread with a putty knife. Also since it sands so easy i wasn't worried if i got a little to much on. Since I'm getting closer to starting on the transom I was wanting your thoughts on using this product for gluing the transom to the outer skin after its been laminated and sealed with csm of course.

Evercoat Premium Marine Resin With Super Thix
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

Uhmm it would Not be my first choice. I'd use the standard PB that I talk about in my link.
 

DerekG

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Mar 22, 2014
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Re: 78' StarCraft Tri Hull Rebuild

Sprayed my primer last night and hoping to get the cap painted white tonight. Should have some time this Saturday to get the cap temporarily replaced and all my grey accent stripes painted. Plan on using a 1/4" red vinyl pinstripe where the colors meet. I was going to go navy blue but Majic enamel has Massey Ferguson gray that I like and I dont have to try and color the paint to get the color I want. With the cap in place I will also be building a cradle on the trailer so I can still move the boat inside if needed but can grind and glass outside with plenty of fresh air. I will also take measurements every foot so i can double check the hull after the cap is removed to make sure nothing warped as I go.
 

DerekG

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No Title

Here it is with the cap replaced and all my painting on the outside done. Until I got a closer look after removing all the masking tape. I let the last coat of white dry for 24 - 36 hours before taping it all off and the tape was on for 2 days. One night to mask everything and a full day to spray 2 coats of gray. Any ideas for a fix? I hate the idea of doing all that work and not having it be right. My only idea is wet sand everything with 400 or 600 and and spray with 2 coats of clear coat with the hardener added.
 

DerekG

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Mar 22, 2014
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Here are the pics. getting used to the new format.
fetch
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DerekG

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Mar 22, 2014
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Sorry about the blank post and duplicate pictures. It kept saying I wasn't authorized to create the post but it all showed up after I refreshed the page.
 

DerekG

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Mar 22, 2014
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So finally got a cradle made with the cap on and remeasured the inside of the hull and wrote all the measurements on the inside of the boat in sharpie instead of a note that can get lost. I plan on Picking up my plywood for the transom, stringers and floor this weekend and get all the wood pieces fabricated and sealed with a coat of resin and a layer of csm. My boat fund has been a little short and the hours at work running plenty late into the evening so progress has been halted the last month but all the extra hours should pay for a nice package of resin, glass cabosil and milled fiber from us composites. Still planning to have it done to splash this summer.
 

DerekG

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Mar 22, 2014
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I do have a question on the issue of below the floor drainage. It has been something I have been thinking about and researching since I started this resto. Seems it's either there is no need for drainage since it should be completely sealed beneath the floor or it is needed so water has a way to get out. I'm leaning towards no drainage since the hull is being foam filled and will be sealed tighter than a submarine. I just don't want to spend all the time and money to have it all sealed up and kick myself later for not putting in some kind of drain.
 

Woodonglass

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Here's my take on the subject. The NEW foam is much more water resistant. It's primary purpose is to float the boat in case of catastrophic failure. Hopefully if you breach the hull, you will know about it fairly soon and effect the repairs before the foam can become saturated. If the deck is done correctly (which I'm sure you will do) then no water should be getting in from above. I see no reason to make provisions for drainage. I wouldn't, but again, it's just an Old Dumb Okie's opinion. It's your boat and your decision. Do as you see fit!!!;):joyous:
 
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