'82 Bomber backyard rebuild

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

A circular saw will work as good as just about anything else.....set the cutting depth to just cut through the deck and no more......taking particular care cutting around the foredeck sections. You shouldnt leave too much of a lip (maybe 2 to 3inches) if you work with the blade side of the saw facing the sides of the hull....the lip should remain for awhile as a reference for finished stringer/deck height when you reach the rebuild stage.

OK, cool. Thanks.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

Great thread and I really like the Photobucket pics!

That'll be a quality boat when you're finished.

For your foam, I'd remove all of the horizontal foam and leave the vertical gunwale foam since it's dry.

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

Great thread and I really like the Photobucket pics!

That'll be a quality boat when you're finished.

For your foam, I'd remove all of the horizontal foam and leave the vertical gunwale foam since it's dry.

Believe it or not, the pics are posted right from my SD card to a site called imgur.com. No registration required and very easy to use.

As to the foam, I go back and forth on this on a daily basis, like some politicians. Right now I'm leaning toward your suggestion. The gunwale foam tapers down to the outer glass where the deck attaches, and it's covered in thin glass. It would save me a LOT of time to just tab the deck to that existing glass. There's no reason for me to create a huge extra project for myself, so I'll likely go in the direction you've suggested.

Thanks for the positive reinforcement. I'm going to try to balance deck removal with some NFL games today...Cheers.

EDIT: If anyone wants to try imgur, you can simply select all the images you want to post from your card/camera/folder, then just drag them all to the open webpage, anywhere on the page, click "upload." Done.

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

Unfortunately, the weather just cr#pped out on me, but a got a couple of things done....

No more deck:

Lots o' foam:

This was satisfying...a whole section popped right out:

Perfect tool for the big pieces:

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

I took some core samples of the stringers after I dug them out.

I'm editing this post. I was initially encouraged by these two samples, but more samples toward the bow end and back by the transom confirm rot and delam. They will at least be solid enough to make good templates for the new ones.

Would you guys add bulkheads to this design? I'm thinking that, since I won't be replacing the pour-in foam and instead using solid panels, added structural support wouldn't be a bad idea.

Is there a thread somewhere about fabricating bulkheads...I can't really wrap my head around the measurement process for the tapered profiles.

Also, is the recommended tool for stringer and transom removal a reciprocating saw? Grinder with a cutting wheel? I have both, but I've never done this. Thanks.

I realize a lot of my posts are long and involve a bunch of me thinking "out loud." Thanks for hanging in there with me.

 

[sphelps]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

I like using an angle grinder with the thin metal cutting blade . Some also use the sawzall . Just whatever feels good to ya ..

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

I like using an angle grinder with the thin metal cutting blade . Some also use the sawzall . Just whatever feels good to ya ..

TY sphelps.

I'm scrapping the bulkhead idea...rigid foam should be strong enough laid vertically.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

Would you guys add bulkheads to this design? I'm thinking that, since I won't be replacing the pour-in foam and instead using solid panels, added structural support wouldn't be a bad idea.

Is there a thread somewhere about fabricating bulkheads...I can't really wrap my head around the measurement process for the tapered profiles.

Also, is the recommended tool for stringer and transom removal a reciprocating saw? Grinder with a cutting wheel?

That is a very good question about the bulkheads. I would do it for sure because of the added support it will give the deck being that you're not going with pour-in. I would have done that if I had thought about it, just alittle late now. I gotta go with the pour-in.

For the tapered profile, I used the 'ol sharpe taped to a paint stick trick. Since you'll be bedding the stringers and bulkheads down in something, it doesn't have to be exact, just need the basic contour of the hull.

I used a cut-off wheel for all the cuts that I have made. Reason being is it seems like you have better control of your cuts, if that makes sense.




Sorry if I just jumped in here, hope you don't mind, I cann't remember if I subscribed earlier. Anyways, I've been following your thread. Nice boat and have fun with it!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

Depending on how you want to address the deck (floor) edge at the hull on either side of the boat, a multi-tool maybe helpful:

Cut & remove the deck about an 1" +/- from the edge, then run the multi-tool along to remove the lip. Then grind it off smooth.

Before you totally remove it, you want to be absolutely positive you have the deck height established so you can put it back at the proper height.

Then you'll have a firm height to gauge & measure your stringers if you have to replace them. If you don't have to replace them, your new deck will sit on the existing stringers & will be at the correct height already.

To get the deck to fit along the tapered hull fore & aft. Establish the centerline of the boat, and along that line, at 90degrees to it, take measurements from the centerline to the hull. Be aware that the hull may taper upward towards the gunwale, so for a tighter fit, the deck should be cut at an angle thru it's thickness:

If you have a hull w/ lots of contour, the measurements from the centerline to the hull need to be more often 6" +/- along the centerline. If you hull is fairly straight fore & aft, then a measurement every 16"+/- may be enough.

For accuracy, you probably want to measure both sides of the boat from the centerline. It may vary. You now have a width for the plywood on the BOTTOM side of the deck. Use the straight edge of the plywood as a baseline, and layout the piece to be cut. Since some boats are narrower then an 8' beam, you can start w/ the max width of the particular deck piece you need to cut, and adjust the layout so you're not cutting a 68" part out of the center of a 96" wide sheet

Does that ^^^ all make sense?

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

That is a very good question about the bulkheads. I would do it for sure because of the added support it will give the deck being that you're not going with pour-in. I would have done that if I had thought about it, just alittle late now. I gotta go with the pour-in.

For the tapered profile, I used the 'ol sharpe taped to a paint stick trick. Since you'll be bedding the stringers and bulkheads down in something, it doesn't have to be exact, just need the basic contour of the hull.

I used a cut-off wheel for all the cuts that I have made. Reason being is it seems like you have better control of your cuts, if that makes sense.




Sorry if I just jumped in here, hope you don't mind, I cann't remember if I subscribed earlier. Anyways, I've been following your thread. Nice boat and have fun with it!

To the bolded, not at all! That's a great post...and the sharpie method makes total, simple sense. Thanks for the tool input as well.

If I go with the bulkheads this will be a great help. Thank you.

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

Depending on how you want to address the deck (floor) edge at the hull on either side of the boat, a multi-tool maybe helpful:

Cut & remove the deck about an 1" +/- from the edge, then run the multi-tool along to remove the lip. Then grind it off smooth.

Before you totally remove it, you want to be absolutely positive you have the deck height established so you can put it back at the proper height.

Then you'll have a firm height to gauge & measure your stringers if you have to replace them. If you don't have to replace them, your new deck will sit on the existing stringers & will be at the correct height already.

To get the deck to fit along the tapered hull fore & aft. Establish the centerline of the boat, and along that line, at 90degrees to it, take measurements from the centerline to the hull. Be aware that the hull may taper upward towards the gunwale, so for a tighter fit, the deck should be cut at an angle thru it's thickness:

If you have a hull w/ lots of contour, the measurements from the centerline to the hull need to be more often 6" +/- along the centerline. If you hull is fairly straight fore & aft, then a measurement every 16"+/- may be enough.

For accuracy, you probably want to measure both sides of the boat from the centerline. It may vary. You now have a width for the plywood on the BOTTOM side of the deck. Use the straight edge of the plywood as a baseline, and layout the piece to be cut. Since some boats are narrower then an 8' beam, you can start w/ the max width of the particular deck piece you need to cut, and adjust the layout so you're not cutting a 68" part out of the center of a 96" wide sheet

Does that ^^^ all make sense?

Yep, sure does. I left a couple of inches of deck lip, so I should be able to employ this method. Thank you very much...this is more great info.

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

I got a little more demo done today. Pretty tiring stuff.

Stringers and keel support out:

Casualties of the day. Yes, I cut through the grinder cord, with the grinder of course.

Not pretty, but back in business:

Moral support:

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

Managed to get one of the stringers out, mostly intact, so I have a template piece.

The transom is to the left here, and I removed about 8 inches of gunwale foam core for tabbing the transom in. Not sure yet if I'll replace that piece of foam:

I've still got some more cutting to do, and the transom needs to come out. Then on to many hours of grinding fiberglass.

Just a question for those who are in the know: Why did builders in the early '80s use dimensional lumber, and now everyone rebuilds with laminated plywood? Just curious.

Another question: The keel support piece was a pine 2x4 laid flat, which is obviously not it's strength position. Would you guys replace this with a center stringer? I'm leaning that way, as well as toward three or four bulkheads.

Thanks for looking and thanks in advance for any input on my questions or the pics. Cheers.

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

One more question:

In this photo, if you look down the length of where that 2x4 was in the center, you can see another very thin foam core. I'm not going to be able to glass much (if at all) before it's too cold to do so, so if it does dry out over the winter (the hull will be flipped to keep snow out...and to allow me to work on the trailer) could I put a layer of glass over the foam (it's poly friendly) and then put my center stringer on that? Or just rip out that core? I do think it lends some strength to the keel area. Thanks again.

Oh, and one last question (really this time, I know there are a bunch already): Will 36 grit grinding discs take down a lot of the stringer laminate that's still there, or should I try to cut it all out?

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

To answer the burning question on so many minds (insert rolling eye thing here), when I get back to the boat in a couple of days I'm just going to cut down to the outer skin above the keel. It's basically just two strips of roving covering it. Seems pretty dumb to throw good materials on top of old wet foam.

Man posts question...man answers own question due to his OCD over-thinking of things. My other questions are legit

 

[sphelps]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

I would take the old stringer glass down as far as possible maybe 1/4" or so . That is unless ya just love to grind fiberglass ..

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

I would take the old stringer glass down as far as possible maybe 1/4" or so . That is unless ya just love to grind fiberglass ..

OK, will do. I've yet to experience this joyful "grinding" of which you speak.

BTW, sphelps, your project is astounding. That's going to be a beautiful boat (it already is). I love the hardtop.

 

[saginawbayboater]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

CW your making great progress. When your grinding you want to get down to fresh glass. You will know how far down because it will look so much better. while grinding my hull I didn't have to go down very far. Harbour freight sell 5" backer disk and 24 grit resin fiber disks to fit your grinder.

Have fun and welcome to the itch zone!!!!

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

CW your making great progress. When your grinding you want to get down to fresh glass. You will know how far down because it will look so much better. while grinding my hull I didn't have to go down very far. Harbour freight sell 5" backer disk and 24 grit resin fiber disks to fit your grinder.

Have fun and welcome to the itch zone!!!!

Thanks (I think). I've got the backer disc, and a bunch of 36 grit pads that I'll give a go with...if they're not up to the task I'll get some 24s. I wish I had a Harbor Freight here, that seems like the go-to place on this forum.

I like your glassing tent. I may attempt something similar to this if I can borrow a heater like that...I think my employer has one. Our northern latitudes are about to become rather unfriendly for these projects and our sorry garage-less selves. Cheers.

 

[laurentide]

Re: '82 Bomber backyard rebuild

I was just bored and found some pics of a well maintained version of my boat. I'm not into metal flake sparkly paint, so mine will be solid colored, and I'll never replace the bow area upholstered cushions, but someone took good care of this one:

In this photo, you can see an interesting feature that my boat shares: that recessed lip at the edge of the bow "seating" ring, which pretty much begs to have a deck extension tabbed in with a pedestal seat attached. Then, underneath, a battery for a 12 volt trolling motor on the bow.

So this is what I do on Friday nights now....fantasize about the finishing touches on a completely dismantled boat.

Have a good, productive weekend all. I'm just waiting for the "superstorm of the millenium" here in New England.