88 sea ray floor from hell

Chadomosis

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I'm rebuilding them. The float foam inside them is soaked and the wood is rotting away in spots. Even with the damage, those are some solid solid pedestals.
 

DeepBlue2010

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I would still try to get them out with minimum damage as possible to maintain the dimensions for the rebuild. After that, chain saw them and off they go to the dump.
 

Chadomosis

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Chainsaw! Awesome! I've got the new ones laid out to fab already, just trying to minimize any damage to parts currently intact...
 

DeepBlue2010

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Well, you can take a Dremel to it if you want but it will take significantly longer and you will look a little like a sissy. Just joking m8 :)
 

Chadomosis

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I've been using a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutoff wheel. Cuts quick enough I suppose. Just get a tad nervous around the hull...
 

DeepBlue2010

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Just to clarify, I am not advising you to use a chain saw to cut them out while they are still on the boat. What I was saying is get them out of the boat intact (with a sawzall, cutoff wheel on a grinder or whatever tool you are comfortable with) so can use them as a reference (take measurements, etc) when the time comes to rebuild them. After they serve their purpose as templates or references or whatever, and while they are already off the boat, cut them down to smaller pieces (this where the chain saw joke kicked in and although it was a joke it is still technically possible) and take them to the dump. If you have a big enough truck to take them to the dump, don?t even worry about chopping them to smaller pieces.
 

Chadomosis

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Thanks DeepBlue2010, I was following your humor. No worries! Strange how some of these models were built so well and other parts were skimped on was my point. The floor and stringers could've used a lot more care during manufacturing but the seat mounts would last forever!
 

DeepBlue2010

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The conspiracy theory - should we choose to believe it - states that the built-in obsolescence was intentional and by design to guarantee a perpetual cash flow. This situation, in my opinion, kind of support this theory in the sense that it is not that they did not know how to built right, they just selectively decide on what to build right. A flying seat base = a major class action lawsuit but a rotten transom and stringers means they will sell a new boat. or maybe I just need my morning coffee(s), still too early for me to think straight :)
 
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Chadomosis

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I could agree with that. Everything nowadays is engineered to last just a bit longer than any warranty or guarantee that is provided. It's not a conspiracy, business is about making money, and for the majority of people with the "when it breaks, throw it away" frame of mind, it works!
 

Chadomosis

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I'm looking at some optional products still... Anyone have experience with seacast or any of the composite board like coosa or nidacore?
 

Chadomosis

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That stuff seems like the magic bullet for repairs... Am I Missing something here?
 

sphelps

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I've used a good bit of seacast over the last few years ... Good stuff imho .... Yes it's expensive ...
 

Chadomosis

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Got some more of the deseased out this afternoon. There was even some tiny critters living in that nasty wet wood. Not sure if you can tell from the pic, but it's obvious where the factory stopped the glass. Even more reason to consider a composite material for the repair.
 

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Chadomosis

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Aug 3, 2016
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Dropped a full dustpan of glass dust into my shoe and now my feet itch like crazy!
 

Chadomosis

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A lot of restoration guys are using a product they call peanut butter. Is that just thickened up resin with micro balloons or chunks of chopped mat? I'm getting closer to that point and collecting the necessary materials.
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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Peanut butter is some form of thickened resin. Usually, it's thickened with Cabosil, which is a fumed silica powder (sometimes called Aerosil). Usually, chopped fiberglass strands are added to give the mixture strength. Peanut butter made with cabosil dries very hard and is difficult to sand. Other thickeners, like microballoons, can be used if the hardened mixture needs to be sanded. For polyester resin, it's important to use thickeners that are waterproof; thickeners like talc or sawdust generally shouldn't be used with poly resin.

I would add that the proportions of each (thickener and fibers) are not very scientific or precise; most of us experimented and came up with a consistency that worked for us. One of the often cited videos is one created by Friscoboater when he was documenting his restoration. It's a good starting point: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3kmr9ZctUo
 

Chadomosis

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How did I miss that one? I thought I watched all of Friscoboaters vids... Thanks!
 
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