89 Force 50hp Carburetor is really going through fuel BAD, HELP

[scorpionman1958]

New to this forum and I hope I can get some help. I bought a bayliner capri and had a 89 Force 50hp, at the time I bought it the owner said it was running but battery was dead so it wouldn't turn over but I thought I was getting a good deal cause the motor looked really good and I could feel compression. So got it home and charged battery, cleaned the carb and put fresh fuel and it started. But when the engine started after about 30 seconds to a minute it started loading up, dropping the idle and died. So I checked the plugs and they were soaked with fuel, dried them off and she fried up again but same thing. If I can keep it running just idling uses about 1 gallon in 12 minutes but that's dying and starting. When I restart it I always have to choke it for a couple of seconds but you have to crank on the starter for 10 to 15 seconds. The carb float seems to be working and at the right height like it says in the repair book I have and it doesn't seem to be flooding out the breather hole in the carb. I've been messing with it for a few hours now and I've gone through 12 gallon of mixed fuel. I've adjusted the air mixer needle screw and it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. The water tank I have for it afterwards has got unburn fuel and oil floating in the water. Compression is 90 pounds in both cylinders, clean carb and readjusted the float but it was good about a dozen times. While it's running it seems to be running well until it started to load up and die. I haven't checked the reeds yet but I've had 2 stroke dirt bikes and I've never had this kind of a problem with the reeds. Anyone have any ideas????

 

[MickLovin]

Have you checked your fuel pump diaphragm.

 

[Jiggz]

90 PSI is really at the bottom of the scale when it comes to compression. I highly suggest you remove the head and inspect the cylinders for water leaks and gasket integrity. If you are careful you can save the gasket and reuse it. Or you can just order a new one. I have a strong feeling the motor is not firing on all cylinders based on fuel consumption.

As for the future, never buy a motor that you cannot test at least to start and ran smoothly (shifts in and out of gear) . Sellers will always come up with excuses and alibi's not to do a starting/running demo, i.e. discharged battery, out of fuel, used to ran but will not ran now, ran strong yesterday but needed a new battery, etc, knowing there is something seriously wrong with the motor.

 

[scorpionman1958]

No, I haven't checked the fuel pump diaphragm but if it was bad wouldn't it not pump at all? I've checked and the engine is firing on both cylinders as I've pulled the plug wires off and it will barely run. And when it does die and I pull the plugs out they are soaking wet with fuel. but I will look into it. Thank you both.

 

[Jiggz]

OK if it is firing on all cylinders then you can start with the "link and synch" sticky post on top of this forum. If the plugs are wetting with fuel (make sure there is no water), it is an obvious sign the motor is running too rich. Adjust the idle fuel mixture first to one turn out from slightly seated and see if things will improve from there. If not keep it in that position anyways.Make sure you are using the correct plugs NGK's BUHX or Champion's UL18V. Verify timing and if everything is OK, de-carbon the motor before going any further.

 

[scorpionman1958]

Ok I think I might have found the problem, there is a 1/4 inch hose on top of the engine just behind the flywheel and before the top of the cylinders looking from the top. While the engine is running, with the hose pulled off the nipple there is a lot of fuel dripping from the hose side which runs behind the coils and cant see were it goes too.. With the hose removed from the nipple the engine will run great and no loading up but as soon as the hose is back on the nipple it will start to load up, start dropping in RPM's and then die. So is this part of the recirculating system? Is this part of the reeds overflow for fuel and should there be fuel coming out the hose? If I blow air into the hose the air wont go threw but if you suck on the hose you get fuel guessing from the reed chamber?

 

[Jiggz]

No Title

A picture will actually help. but I'm guessing you are referring to the fuel recirc system. And yes,, the nipple connections have check valves and fuel should only go out of the crankcase or intake ports to be fed back to the intake manifold. Here's a pic of the recirc system. Disconnect the hoses and niples to make sure none is clogged or at least the check valves are still working. Usually, gunk will clog the nipples while delamination will restrict the hoses.

 

[scorpionman1958]

I took the fuel pump apart and checked the diaphragm and it looks like it's bad, it does make since if the pistons causes the diaphragm to move in and out and have vacuum. If it has cracks or pinholes in the diaphragm it would be sucking the fuel into the crankcase and pistons. The check valve acts like a PVC valve on a 4 stroke engine. I'll let you know what I find with a new one.

 

[scorpionman1958]

Well I put it all back together and it still does it coming out of the tube side. As long as I leave the hose off the nipple it will idle all day but as soon and I put it back on within 30 seconds it starts loading up. any ideas???? It doesn't seem to go through the fuel like it did before. Thanks