9 amp or 16 amp stator

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,793
Have no clue just keep hearing that an ohm's reading from a multi meter is not reliable that I should use a DVA and test the voltage

Baloney. a DVA is a Digital Voltage Adapter.

The High voltage pulses generated to operate the CDI are very narrow pulses with a long recurrence rate. Like a 1 microsecond pulse occurring at 1000 rpm (1 millisecond time interval) is a 1000-1 ratio...micro sec to milli second. Unless you had an oscilloscope or a sample and hold circuit you could not measure anything.

The DVA is a rectifier, for DC, a storage capacitor, and a large bleeder for eventually bleeding the charge off the capacitor for another reading of lesser value if that were required. The rectified DC pulse charges the capacitor and over thousands of pulses...a minutes running time, the capacitor has had enough pulses to fill it with energy equal to the peak of the pulses applied. Hanging a meter probe across that is easily read. Readings from the DVA are in 100's of Volts, not Ohms, but both can be read with the same DMM.

The stator resistance is a continuous DC reading....you are measuring the resistance of a piece of copper wire.


On accuracy, back in the old days of the D'Arsonval, jeweled, meter movement, like came in a Simpson Analog Multimeter, the sensitivity was in the order of 10k or 20k ohms/volt input impedance, meaning the loading effect the meter input circuit could have on the reading, causing a measurement error.

In those days a Vacuum Tube Voltmeter was required to isolate the reading instrument from the circuit as you were feeding the grid of a vacuum tube which was operated in the cut off region....grid draws no current so an imput impedance of 1 million (Meg) Ohms input impedance was the norm which wouldn't affect most circuits, and was a reliable reading.

With today's DMMs, that impedance is on the order of 10 Meg Ohms, and digital signals are 1 or 0, nor 1.15 or 0.75 type things common to analog instruments, another benefit to accuracy of DMMs.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
The stator resistance is a continuous DC reading....you are measuring the resistance of a piece of copper wire.
That's true on battery charging side of stator but not on ignition side as not a single wire but 2 separate wires with common ground. Ohm test of ignition side is really to see if you have a circuit and DVA to see if you have volt/amps to make circuit work. Seen plenty of stators that where close in ohms reading but failed to make system operate as weak/no DVA output.
 

asdasc

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
680
While interesting, I think we've gotten off topic. I see mention that if he has a regulator he should get a 16A stator. Are you using the terms regulator and rectifier interchangeably? My engine has a rectifier.

Thanks
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,793
The Serv. Manual stipulates the color of the stator for the 16A. You can peek up under the flywheel and see red or black easily.

A rectifier converts Alternating voltage/current to Direct V/I. The regulator is a device that converts an un-controlled power source to a specific power source. Both are contained in regulated converter modules, and only the rectifier in non-regulated modules. Outputs on regulated are limited to something like 14.5v max while unregulated can go on up to something like 16v. Unregulated seem to appear on low power charging circuits where the excessive voltage doesn't (isn't supposed to) generate enough over charging of the battery such that the water boils out of solution.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
The 9 amp stator is for a manual start engine and if memory serves me the manual flywheel has different magnets.. So you really need to to use the 16amp,replace rect/reg and check battery.
 

Dukedog

Captain
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Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,449
While interesting, I think we've gotten off topic. I see mention that if he has a regulator he should get a 16A stator. Are you using the terms regulator and rectifier interchangeably? My engine has a rectifier.

Thanks

tha 9 amp charging system uses a rectifier only.. tha early V6 had this.. in early 80's it changed to tha 16 amp system.. this used a separate rectifier and regulator.. in '89 the rec. and reg. were combined to ONE unit....
 

Dukedog

Captain
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Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,449
The 9 amp stator is for a manual start engine and if memory serves me the manual flywheel has different magnets.. So you really need to to use the 16amp,replace rect/reg and check battery.

faz.. tha 9 amp was used first 2 to 4 years of tha V6 before tha 16 for it came out............... remember tha very fine tooth flywheel and starter on tha 175's?
 

RRH31978

Cadet
Joined
Apr 22, 2018
Messages
22
Thank you all very much. Stator tests at .21 Ohms. I have decided to go ahead and replace it with a 16 amp CDI stator. Still wondering about the trigger. Can it be Ohms tested or DVA tested?

I didn't want to get into it that far and not be certain of condition of the trigger. The wires on it look a little dry rotted.
 

sam am I

Commander
Joined
Jun 26, 2013
Messages
2,169
No to de-rail the push here but, the Merc spec for a 16 amp charge stator (you'all determined it was 16 amp right?) is anywhere from 0.15 ohms - 0.20 (0.19?) ohms and you're measuring 0.21 ohms and calling it bad?

Ummmm........0.01 ohm is the difference of maybe of measuring it at 60 degrees F verses 70 degrees F AND the resistance error (if any) is in the positive direction!

Coils, 99.99% of time short out turns (windings) when they go bad (the resistance goes down, not up). Hence, when running (@3K RPM) they can't induce the required voltage to create the necessary 20VAC required on the rec/reg's input to make for the14.4VDC on the rec/reg's output. (See Duke #17 above)

Also....

Heated/melted yellow stator connector/wires (and red) with rec/reg's on these Merc's is common. With age and crap connectors, poor connections increases series resistance....thus have higher voltage drops and get **hot!!

Thinking your throwing money away here. Follow what Duke eluded to earlier(lol, or did I just make that part up? ;) ) or I'm missing the boat here?

Spitting hairs here buying parts based on reading the difference of between 0.01 ohms (or even 0.5 ohm for that matter) etc. is nutty....

If the voltage is low, say 12V'ish @ 3K RPM, check in this order after installing a fully charged battery.

A) Bad connections/wiring

If still 12V'ish @ 3K

B) Bad rec/reg (or just rec depending on design)

If still 12V'ish @ 3K

C) Bad stator



**
V = I*R (1)

P = I*V (2)

from (1)

I = V/R (3)

Sub (3) into (2)

P = V^2/R
 
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RRH31978

Cadet
Joined
Apr 22, 2018
Messages
22
I replaced the stator trigger and voltage regulator. Running good on the muffs headed to the lake in the morning!
 
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