92 BM 150 wont get WOT

Sailormike

Recruit
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
5
Hey all. Been getting closer on my 92 procraft 200 combo but could use a little help. I have read thru hundreds of topics but now it's time to start my own.
as the above says my 150 just won't get above 4k and im not sure where to look next. Here is a run down on what's been done so far..

Compression 115-117 on all 6
New CDI switch boxes
New CDI trigger
New CDI stator
Fresh plugs
Carbs cleaned
new water pump
New t-stats
And more
primer bulb is full and hard when wide open

The last thing I did was the stator, before that it would cough, and bog down at about 2k. With new stator it runs nice and smooth but only at 38-4k?
Should I go thru the carbs again? Going to check my link and sync this afternoon but I'm a little confused about the high side timing. Should it be 18 or 22 when on the hose?
Also wondering about the prop. The 92 procraft 200 combo is a HEAVY boat. 1900 lbs on spec sheet. Add 2 people, full bait tank, and beer I'm probably at 2500 lbs. It currently has the 21p laser 2 prop. Should I try a 19p? Or look elsewhere?

Thanks for any help..
Mike
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
39,138
Have a shop run it on a dyno.-----If motor is putting out rated power then a prop change can be calculated.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,935
It about 50hp underrated.....and boat weighs more than that if set out in weather !!!!!
 

Sailormike

Recruit
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
5
One thing I noticed is the plugs are awful wet after trying to run WOT on the water like it's flooding at higher rpm. Also the the whole engine looks to be covered in a very thin coat of oil. Not enough to make your finger wet but enough to accumulate a drop or two in a nook or cranny. The oil pump is disconnected and I'm running 50:1 pre mix.
can someone clarify what wot timing Should be set at when running with idle control box disconnected?

Thanks
Mike
 

legalfee

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 10, 2018
Messages
407
Could be a bad rectifier / regulator. Try disconnecting it from the stator and see if you get WOT.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,935
Trash the stabilizer and set timing to 22 degrees at cranking...the oil leak could be from a recirc line leaking,oil plug if pump was removed and plugs wet will be a tad wet if checking after WOT. Proper way to check plugs is to run WOT then shut off key and run to front of boat then pull plugs and check.
 

Sailormike

Recruit
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
5
Could be a bad rectifier / regulator. Try disconnecting it from the stator and see if you get WOT.

I was wondering about the regs. Your talking about the yellow wires from stator? BTW I have a 40 amp stator with 2 regs. Took 3 weeks to save 400 buck for the stator, that's not going to fry anything?
 

Sailormike

Recruit
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
5
Trash the stabilizer and set timing to 22 degrees at cranking...the oil leak could be from a recirc line leaking,oil plug if pump was removed and plugs wet will be a tad wet if checking after WOT. Proper way to check plugs is to run WOT then shut off key and run to front of boat then pull plugs and check.

I did not do the proper WOT shutdown so I will be prepared to do that next time I water test. Hopefully this afternoon, And I have trashed the stabilizer, although it's still in place. Read too many stories about that "apparently" useless box

Think I'm going have another look at the carbs also, gut feeling.

Thanks guys. I'll be in touch
 

legalfee

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 10, 2018
Messages
407
I was wondering about the regs. Your talking about the yellow wires from stator? BTW I have a 40 amp stator with 2 regs. Took 3 weeks to save 400 buck for the stator, that's not going to fry anything?

Yes the yellow wires from the stator. You should be OK disconnecting just to test.

This is from CDI Electronics:

HIGH SPEED MISS OR WEAK HOLE SHOT: 1. Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If miss is gone, the rectifier is usually at fault. Remember a problem rectifier can damage a stator. 2. DVA check the Blue and Blue/White wires to engine ground and do a running test. The voltage should show a smooth climb and stabilize, gradually falling off at higher RPM's (above 3000). If you see a sudden drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent, the stator is likely at fault. 3. Check DVA voltage on the Red wires reference to engine ground of the stator at high speed. NOTICE: Use caution when doing this and do not exceed the rated voltage range of your meter. The readings should show a smooth climb in voltage. If there is a sudden or fast drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent, the stator is usually at fault. If there is no indication of the problem, it could be mechanical problem. 4. Rotate the stator one bolt hole in either direction and re-test. If the miss is gone, leave the stator as is. If the miss is worse, rotate the stator back where it was. 5. Using extreme caution, on the water or connected to a dyno, take the engine to the RPM where the problem is occurring and hold it for a few seconds, then perform a high speed shutdown at that RPM. Check the sparkplugs for differences in color or the presence of water droplets on the sparkplug (an indicator of a possible crack in the engine block).
 
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