92 Force 50 no spark, Possibly trigger?

[Rbranham607]

I have a 1992 Force 50 with intermittent spark(more off than on). I've done some trouble shooting but I was wondering if their was an ohm test for the trigger, or how do you go about testing the trigger? The reason I think it's the trigger is the two wires coming from it are very soft and feel like they got really hot at some point in their life. Any other Ideas? Sorry If I'm asking a question that's been asked to death, I tried searching the forum and didn't see anything that looked like it covered this. Thanks guys!

 

[busted-bayliner]

you can ohm test it but its not a definite that its not bad even though it ohms out good i think each trigger should ohm out between 40-60 ohms. Is it intermittent on one cylinder or both? if both i would think it may be the stator check all the wire to blade conectors at the power block pull an twist dont yank though

 

[Rbranham607]

I checked the resistance and it was 84 ohms. It's intermittent on both cylinders. I believe their is only one trigger for both cylinders though.

 

[AndrewsForces]

If you think you need a trigger eBay is probably the best place If its a 1992 any 50hp trigger from 1992-1995 should work

 

[jerryjerry05]

Don't buy anything yet!!!
This is for the Prestolite ignition.
I'll put the Mercury in the next post.

Replace all the wire connectors~~1.Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors and visually inspect them.
2.Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3.Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT.
4.Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicated a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:
1.Disconnect kill wire AT THE PACK.
2.Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
3.Measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 - 800 ohms.
4.Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1.Check stator and trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), stator reads 680-800 ohms, DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
2.If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the other pack.

NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS:
•If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.

ENGINE WILL NOT KILL:
•Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the kill wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the pack, the kill circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, possibly the ignition switch.

COILS ONLY FIRE WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
•Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.

HIGH SPEED MISS:
1.DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2.Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires smoothly, replace the rectifier.

Two Cylinder Engines with Combination CD Module with Built-in Ignition Coils
(1984-1988)

NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1.Check the stator resistance, you should read 680-800 ohms, DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note - On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2.Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground.
3.If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the other pack

ENGINE WILL NOT KILL:
•Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the kill wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the pack, the kill circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, or possibly the ignition switch.


~~1.Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT.
2.Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3.Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors and visually inspect them.
4.Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicated a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF NO FIRE ON EITHER CYLINDER:
1.Disconnect all kill wires AT THE PACK.
2.Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
3.Measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 - 800 ohms.
4.Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
1.Check the stator resistance, you should read 680-800 ohms, DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow (Note - On some two cylinder engines, the stator has Iwo blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2.Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground.
3.If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the other pack.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Mercury:
Some of this should help?? ~~Two Cylinder Engines Using a Separate Switch Box and Ignition Coils
No Fire At All:
1.Disconnect the black/yellow kill wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
2.Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
3.Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
4.Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Motors with Black Stator
Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Blue
Red Blue/White
Red/White 3250-3650
75-90 180V or more
25V or more

Motors with Red Stator
Wire Read To Resistance DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 180V or more
Red Stator Adapter
Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Blue Engine Ground Open 180V or more


No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder:
1.If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect a inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder.
2.Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Brown wire (#1)
Brown wire (#1)
White wire (#2) White wire (#2)
Engine GND
Engine GND 800-1400
Open
Open 4V or more
1V or more (a)
1V or more (a)
a.This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cyli?lder is low — disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low — the trigger is bad.
3.Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.


Engine will not rev beyond 3000-4000 RPM:
1.Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders acting up usually indicate a bad stator.
2.Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Blue wire and Blue/White wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Blue to Engine GND if the engine has a Red stator kit installed).
3.Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Red wire and Red/White wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than what is on the Blue wire indicates a bad stator.


High Speed Miss:
1.Connect an inductive Tachometer each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder”.
2.Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high speed miss when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3.Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets

~~Two Cylinder Engines
1996-2000
Engines Using a Combination Switch Box and Ignition Coil (CDM Modules)
No Fire At All:
1.Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires from the harness and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill
2.circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
3.Swap the White/Green and Green White stator wire and retest. If the problem moves to the other cylinder, the
4.stator is likely bad.
5.Disconnect one CDM module at a time and using a set of piercing probes and jumper wires- short the stator and
6.trigger wires to engine ground. Retest. If the other module start firing, the one you unplugged is bad.
7.Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
8.Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
9.Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Read To Resistance DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 180V or more

No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder:
1.If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2.Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as given below:

Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Brown
White
Brown White
Engine Ground
Engine Ground 800-1400
Open
Open 3V or more
1V or more
1V or more
3.If # 1 is not firing, swap the White/Green and Green White stator wire and retest. If the problem moves to the #2 cylinder, the stator is likely bad. If no change, swap locations with #2 and see if the problem moves. If it does, the module is bad. A continued no fire on the same cylinder indicates a bad trigger.

High Speed Miss:
1.Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the trigger or CDM module.
2.Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high speed miss when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3.Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.