92 johnson 40 won't start

[Mikermason]

Hello, I recently replaced my control unit with new BRP remote control unit. When I did that I replaced both battery cables, shift/throttle cables, and used adapter boat harness to make the new control unit work with the older engine harness. Now when I turn the key I get nothing from the engine. I checked the voltage at on the battery cables at the engine and it read 12.85. I also had someone turn the key to start position and measured at main red power cable that goes into the starter and that read 0. Please help, is there anything else I can check?

 

[Mikermason]

Well I have voltage to the starter solenoid from battery, but no voltage out of the solenoid to starter motor at all even when the key is in the start position so I guess I will start with replacing the solenoid unless otherwise told.

 

[jakedaawg]

I think the issue likely lies in whatever you did while replacing controls. A solenoid is not going to be the issue. Place a test light at the yellow wire on start solenoid. Turn key to crank and see if light lights. Report back.

 

[glenn property of pam]

voltage comes from a inline fuse attached to the starter solenoid battery side, this then goes to the key switch (if gauges don't move when key is switched on then I would check that fuse), when the key is turned to cranking then voltage goes to the neutral switch (use to be in the old controller) then to the small post on the starter solenoid. If you have voltage at the key switch but not at the solenoid then check the shift switch on the new controller.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html diagram for a original controller.

 

[Mikermason]

Jakedawg I don't have a test light right now, but I had my friend turn the ignition key while I had a voltmeter on the yellow wire(red lead) and black lead on ground and did not get any voltage. will try again with test light if you think the results will be different. I am going to upload some pictures of my wiring in a few also. and Glenn I don't have any gauges on this skiff. harness goes from motor to control box 6 pin connector, no tilt/trim either so that connector on new harness is unused. Only wires that are not brand new is the engine harness.

 

[Mikermason]

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[Mikermason]

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[glenn property of pam]

try moving the shift lever while turning the key to crank. There should be a neutral switch in the controller and maybe that's adjusted wrong

 

[Mikermason]

well I traced out the wires and came across that 20A fuse holder that was hidden in electrical tape... thanks for that info about the inline fuse Glenn it was blown. So I am going to see if I can find one tonight. but that brings another concern to light, why did I blow that fuse? Do you think 6 gauge wires are big enough for a 12 run from battery to engine? I will post my results if I can get ahold of one of the 20A fuses. Also I don't know what happened to the 5 pics I posted \o/

 

[Mikermason]

Alright, starter is engaging and motor cranks for a second and then shuts down. so ultimately the problem was the fuse. I believe that is because of the cracked fuel fitting on tank is sucking some air and not providing enough fuel. Replace that and hopefully will be out on the water this weekend for a little fishing and mini lobster season next week Thank you guys for the help so far. At least I will have a spare solenoid sitting around when it gets her on Thursday...