93 Mariah engine mount

Mariah212

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I'm just kinda confused on how this boat was built...It doesn't look like other boats on I see online...The main stringer is literally just one 3/4 " plywood with two 1 inch strips at the top of 3/4.. It has several triangle pieces running east and west off the main stringer...It looks like they use some kinda box construction to gain strength....In the center under the gas tank it looked like balsa wood covered in glass? any of that make sense? thx..
 

MikeSchinlaub

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If yours is like the ine in the thread linked by tpenfield, it looks pretty normal to me.

Post a pic of yours before you start cutting stuff out.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I'm just kinda confused on how this boat was built...It doesn't look like other boats on I see online...The main stringer is literally just one 3/4 " plywood with two 1 inch strips at the top of 3/4.. It has several triangle pieces running east and west off the main stringer...It looks like they use some kinda box construction to gain strength....In the center under the gas tank it looked like balsa wood covered in glass? any of that make sense? thx..

Balsa is a great core material and still used today on many larger boats. the cockpit sole and the foredeck on my boat are all balsa core and even Ted's Cruiser has a balsa core foredeck

dont focus too much on the current stringer and how it was fabricated. a single piece of 3/4" with a strip at top was done to save cost and be cheap as hell. the main purpose of the stringer core material is three-fold.

purpose #1. bring enough natural strength to the job initially so a worker can step on it while draging resin-soaked cloth on top of it for the hull lay up.

Purpose #2. be wide enough to separate two layers of fiberglass. this is where the stringer strength comes from, it is the separation of two fiberlass surfaces. the stringer core needs to be sufficiently strong enough to not shear off the fiberglass. this is a lamination sandwich

Purpose #3. the core material must be of sufficient strength to hold fasteners shot into it to build the boat and rig the boat.

the stringer and bulkhead grid system is common build practice prior to todays stringer tubs. its why boxes of wine are strong with that little bit of cardboard stringer and bulkhead liner inside.

my recommendation, two layers of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood laminated together, placed in the hull in similar nature to your current layout. remember to round over the corners on top the stringers to promote the glass to curve around the edge.

If you want to use a newer composite core material, look into coosa or nida.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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We had to get 3/4 of what I think is coosa ( like a black foam board with strands of fiberglass mixed in). It was about $400 per 4x8ft sheet.
Nida is not far behind it.

however in the case of a 90's boat, its an option. I personally would use ACX or BCX at $35 a sheet as it will last another 20-30 years and by then the boat will have been sold/replaced/etc.
 

Mariah212

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Oct 15, 2025
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Ok, I got some pics with #s for reference
#1..RH stringer template with 26 degree bevel cut..The notch in transom was a touch of rot from stringer that I cut out..transom is very solid..I'll fill this in
#2.. Factory LH stringer...notice no bevel cut and stringer isn't touching hull..I feel like mine template is incorrect and gonna create a hard spot??
#3..Gas tank area...This was like 1/4 balsa core that the core rotted away and left nothing, but de-laminated fiberglass...I cut out the fiberglass...I'm unsure what to do here...
#4...Front bulkhead...You can see the substrate(balsa) is gone under the glass.
#5..Factory resin coated stringer...See how it's above the hull..I think they sat the stringer on the balsa core and glassed it in on both sides with a fillet.

Ok, that is were I'm it...My 2 biggest issues are...1.) I always thought the stringer was glued to the hull..After watching the guy with the jacked up 95 SeaRay I'm finding it's not the case..How do I recreate what the factory did? 2.) center section with balsa ...I don't know what to do here? Seal off lower area front bulk head and use balsa again and glass the area...

Sorry, for the long post...Any direction you can give me would be great..I have currently run of talent....Thank you..
 

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alldodge

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You don't want the wood in direct contact with the hull because some hard impacts can crack the skin. Many use cabosoil or mix up some chop strain mat and resin to fill in void under stringer.

Transom also does not go all the way down to the bottom hull, keep it up 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Let mat and resin fill in void

Do have stringer come in direct contact with transom
 

Mariah212

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Ok, let me make sure I understand...The bevel cut isn't happening...So the wood doesn't get glued to the floor directly ? What do I space the stringer off the hull with? thank you
 

MikeSchinlaub

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Ok, I think I get it. It seems that you don't want to set the wood in place dry, then just glass it straight in. It should be bedded in with a filler material, which would be the resin putty.

I don't really see how it would make a difference though, as the putty or resin and glass dries hard, so it's still a stress point because it limits the flex.

I know it sounds backwards, because the whole point of the wood structure is to add rigidity, but some flex is good. Some flex will allow Stress to travel and sort of fade out, but a hard spot puts a sudden stop to the kinetic energy. Like the difference between gradually braking your truck vs a sudden stop from 60 to 0mph. The energy has to go somewhere.

 

Mariah212

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I"m honestly totally confused at this point..It's not you, it's me for sure..What am I spacing the stringer off the hull with, am I just cutting it flat, and what am I'm using for a glue? Can I use that Loctit PL stuff..I can make resin putty if needed...Guys, I apologize..I'm not a dumbass and once I get rolling I'll have it going on..I think...
 

MikeSchinlaub

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Guys, I apologize..I'm not a dumbass and once I get rolling I'll have it going on..I think...
Hey, I've been doing this for 12 years, and I have the same feeling sometimes. There are lots of different methods and materials, and there isn't just one that works.

What we do at work, and our work is backed up by a warranty, is the cut the angle in and bed the stringers in resin putty, then 2 layers of csm and one of roving, using polyester resin (not sure if it's finishing or all purpose, but it dries to a hard surface with no additional steps).
 

Pmt133

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Cut the stringers so it fits the hull reasonably well. Mark where it'll rest. Lay a bead of thickened resin, putty, PL, whatever there. Drop stringer on top and round filet. Glass in place.
 

Mariah212

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Ok, I think I understand now...I think I'm gonna use PL for my glue and the pink insulation stuff 1/4" to keep it off the hull...Can I use like the total boat repair putty to create my filet? Thank you again for your patience.....There is a lot chemicals and rules...No poly over epoxy, but epoxy over poly is ok etc...Thank you again...Jason
 
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Pmt133

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You don't need the pink insulation. As long as it fits to the hull reasonably well just bed it down. The PL is fine but you have an offgasing period of a couple days. If you make a thickened resin with cabosil and glass fiber to bed in, you can roll your filet and glass while its wet so its a wet on wet layup. Think like laying spackle with tape. Put it over the wet then skim so its strong.
 

Mariah212

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I appreciate the help, but I'm a total newbie at best with stringers and the concepts here..The worst part is all the different ways of doing it and the fact I don't understand all the terms...That is on me...Either way right or wrong a stringer section is going in this weekend..I'm gonna try to try to use the information gathered here and youtube and put something together and then pray..🙂
 

tpenfield

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Everything looks 'chopper gun' in those pictures. Might be best to re-build it as much as you can.

I have seen situations where a person did a patch job, because the rest "did not look too bad" . He had to go back a couple of years later, because the "not too bad" was now rotted.

Do it once by doing it right.
 
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