94' 112hp Evinrude Not Charging?

[Fed]

Check your meter as 21 Ohms is an unlikely reading.

An engine model number would tell us what stator you have.
It seems there are 2 stators either a 3/9 Amp or a 6 Amp, I have no idea what the 3/9 Amp one is about. (A 3 Amp that sometimes takes steroids?)

Anyway a stock 9.0 Amp is 0.7 Ohms, a 6 Amp would be a little higher as suggested.

I can't imagine a fault that would give you 21 Ohms, a little bit open circuited is sort of like being a little bit pregnant.
Not saying 21 Ohms can't happen only that it's unlikely.

Hopefully someone will chime in with some info on the 3/9 Amp stator.

 

[racerone]

They decided to inform folks that the alternator would put out 3 amps at low / idle speeds and 9 amps at full throttle.-----------They do this because many folks simply do not know how these systems work.

 

[Fed]

Thank you racerone, finding that out could have turned into a google wacker.

6 Amp 1.3 Ohms, 9 Amp 0.7 Ohms, 21 Ohms check the fluke.

 

[avolnek]

My 1995 130 rude yellow to yellow gray from the stator reads and ohm or less. I would guess yours should be similar to this.

 

[Vic.S]

My 1995 130 rude yellow to yellow gray from the stator reads and ohm or less. I would guess yours should be similar to this.

I believe you probably have a 3/9 amp stator. That has a lower resistance than the 6amp one. Just under 1 ohm, IIRC.

 

[JD466US]

Okay let me state that I found that the my meter at home that I used on the stator had a bad lead which led to the 21 ohm reading on the two yellow stator wires. I then used my calibrated Fluke meter from work, (same meter I used on the rectifier) and the readings were 549 ohms on the Brown to Brown /Yellow wires and 2.5 ohms on the yellow to yellow stator wires. They were measured with the wires unhooked from the terminal block but with the stator still attached to the motor. I am beginning to doubt that there is a problem with the stator or the rectifier. I am going to disconnect all the accessories he has on the boat and just leave the ignition and start it and see what readings I get at the battery. What I don't understand though is with the engine running at a high idle why the charge is still only 12.8 volts at the battery even with all of the accessories shut off at the switch panel?

 

[Vic.S]

I am beginning to doubt that there is a problem with the stator or the rectifier. I am going to disconnect all the accessories he has on the boat and just leave the ignition and start it and see what readings I get at the battery. What I don't understand though is with the engine running at a high idle why the charge is still only 12.8 volts at the battery even with all of the accessories shut off at the switch panel?

In post #9 I made the point that

With a charged battery at the outset you should get a good many re-starts before it needs recharging, If therefore you have a discharged battery after a short run it suggest a fault somewhere that is discharging the battery or you have too may bits of electrical gear switched on!

 

[avolnek]

2.5 Ohms sounds much better across the yellow wires!

what is your battery voltage when the engine is off?

also have you had the battery load tested?

One last question is the battery a deep cycle or cranking type?

 

[JD466US]

Batteries are reading 12.6v with the battery switch off. They are new batteries. And I believe they are cranking batteries not deep cycle.

 

[F_R]

Personally, I think it is time to quit with the guessing and test the alternator output---with an ammeter in series with the red wire. Either it is producing the Amps, or it isn't. My only caution here is make sure you have solid and secure connections to the ammeter. If it loses good contact, it can blow the rectifier.

 

[JD466US]

I will check that this evening.

 

[Vic.S]

Personally, I think it is time to quit with the guessing and test the alternator output---with an ammeter in series with the red wire. Either it is producing the Amps, or it isn't. My only caution here is make sure you have solid and secure connections to the ammeter. If it loses good contact, it can blow the rectifier.

Maybe the OP has access to a clamp type (DC) ammeter

 

[oldboat1]

Battery switch determines which bank receives the charge. On "both", they would both get a share of a meager 6 amp charge, with the lions share going to the lesser charged battery. Not clear from your posts where the switch was set when you tested voltage with the engine idling. Finding 12.8v at the battery wouldn't seem remarkable.

You can see the presence of charge at the battery even using a cheap "state of charge" meter. First step would be to insure the batteries and switch are properly wired, and the switch used appropriately -- that and insuring starter operation and draw is what it should be.

Seems to me the rest is probably just academic.

 

[JD466US]

Its a perko switch and it was set at battery 1 when I originally checked the battery, ( and yes I checked both batteries just in case I was reading the incorrect battery) as it was running and had a 12.8 reading. I do have access to a clamp meter and may use it to get a current reading. I didn't have a chance last night to run a current test due to having to work late but will get to it this weekend. I am going to go through and check all the wiring and start cleaning cables, but what I have seen so far there is no corrosion on any of the terminals.

 

[JD466US]

Okay gentlemen, it appears that the stator and rectifier are good. Today I hooked a clamp meter to the red wire while engine was running a got a reading of 6 amps at idle. Run the engine up to 2000 rpm and it jumped up to 7.22 amps. Now I unhooked all of the accessories on the boat cleaned all cables, verified the cabling to the perko battery switch, and still getting a reading of 12.8 volts to the battery. The only other thing that my son changed is he went to a 1/0 battery cable between the batteries and the switch. So now what is down stream of the stator/rectifier wires that could possibly affecting the current flow to the battery? Does the juice flow through the starter relay? Could that possibly cause the problem? This is one of the most frustrating issues I have ever encountered with a boat.

 

[F_R]

If it is wired correctly, the current flows from the rectifier to the positive battery cable where it is connected to the solenoid. It does not flow through the solenoid. We know the battery cable is good because it cranks the starter. But you bring up an interesting point--the rectifier might be connected to the starter cable at the solenoid, instead of the battery cable side. That very well could be the problem. Alternator current is going through the starter motor then ground. That also explains why current is a tad more than spec---not going against the internal resistance of the battery.