96 Celebrity 220 BR stringers, transom, and deck replacement.

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
Wood, I started to get better as I have gone on and using less resin. Oh well, learn as you go! I for sure used to much starting out.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,739
No worries on the resin use, we gotta learn as we go. I know I use quite a bit in making up hairy PB for bedding and filler. I purposely leave a little gap under all my wood and fill with hairy PB. Mainly the thought of wood sitting in water makes me do it. When your talking about resin glue, hairy thickened resin, fairing compound and cloth, it goes fast. I have about a gallon left out of 15, I'll need 5 more to finish.

Enjoying your pics. 👍🏼
 

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
Little update again. I had enough resin left to put down a second layer of csm in the bow area and along the port side of the ski locker. sanded down any high spots and layed down a layer of gelcoat in the bow section. Test fit the ski locker, still need to sand it down a bit more to fit the hinge.



 

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
More resin will be here today and will get the rest of the deck done and gel coated this week, also will get mounts glassed in and hopefully be able to test fit the motor this weekend and get the bilge gelled as well
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
From the looks of your deck it appears you are getting lots better with glass in' 😜 A resin rich lamination is actually weaker than one thats not Time and practice teaches us all
 

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
Thanks wood, I'm slowly getting better with the csm. I started using a plastic sgueege to help spread the resin around before laying down the csm and once it got wet out I used a chip brush to help wet out any dryer spots.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Squeegees and Bondo spreaders work pretty well, but...

I'd highly recommend you use some rollers like these...

PaintRoller.jpg

and a bubble buster roller like this...

Bubble Roller.jpg

They make things go SOOOOOOO much easier.
 

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
I have the bubble buster, it's been a great help. What specific brand of roller is that? I've just been using the 4in nap rollers from lowes and Home Depot. On a side note I got my second layer of csm done on the deck this evening. Still need to glass the mounts in.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
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Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,739
I use the cheap Harbor Freight chip brushes for the tabbing along with a bubble buster. I don't like using the roller due to the amount of resin it drinks. I would imagine I would use a 1/4" nap roller if I needed to do an area as large as a deck. A squeegee would not be a good choice to use on CSM due to it moving the fibers around.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
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Jul 29, 2016
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2,739
Lowes' carries them under the WHIZZ brand name.

I had trouble with the whizz 4" rollers when I was doing some gelcoat. Kept getting fuzz in the gelcoat from the roller. Was pissing me off. Believe it or not the HF 4" rollers didn't come apart as bad. I was shocked.....I'm trying the more expensive HD 1/4" nap 4" rollers on my next gelcoat session.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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I always use a wire brush and masking tape to De-Fuzz my roller covers. Never had any issues since. Yeah, when using squeegees or bondo spreaders it's imperative to use very light pressure just skimming the surface and NOT trying to press down on the mat or the cloth. Their used mainly to move the resin where you want it. The short nap of the rollers pictured actually don't absorb that much resin and do make quick work of larger areas, i.e. transoms and decks. Chip brushes are great for corners and small areas like edges or stringers.
 

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
I did not like the rollers from harbor freight, they seemed to just flatten out after a few minutes. I haven't had any trouble with fuzz on my gelcoat from the rollers I've been using. I use a 6 inch roller with the pink rollers from lowes. They seem to work good so far. Also I used a foam roller with the gel to try it and it worked ok but seems to just hold the gel and then the roller starts to rip after a bit.
 

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
On a side note from my build, I've been wanting to address the issue with my trailer and the way the boat sits on it. The boat seems to be putting a lot of weight on the front keel roller and causing it to split apart/crack the rubber. I just replaced the roller in the summer and it did not last long at all. The bunks are adjusted as high as they go right now. The boat is obviously a 96 and the trailer is a 2000 or 2001. Any advice on what I can do to fix this so I don't ruin he keel on my boat.





 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,739
Yeah I wouldn't like that either. I am not a fan of keel rollers because if the roller fails it's gelcoat on steel. Steel will always be the victor in that battle.
If it were me, I'd buy a different bunk bracket that was higher and get that keel off the roller altogether. Even if you had to add another set of bunks, get the keel off that roller.
 

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
I've been looking at adding another set of bunks or adding just a centering v bunk in place of the roller. My bunks are as high as they go currently, so I'll have to see if I can get taller brackets. Although I think these are the tallest ones ahorelander makes, so I'll have to do custom or find another company. The trailer it's self is in great shape, just need to get it set up correctly.
 

eriki

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
61
Got my mounts tabbed in tonight with 2 layers of 1708 to the hull and then used PB to glue the kick out sections and will finish glassing that tomorrow. After those are glassed in all that's left really is to glass in the seat bases and battery bases, test fit motor, and gelcoat everything. Hopefully have everything done by next week!!
 
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