A few questions on boat restoration

[roscottjr]

I have a 1988 MAXUM Bowrider with 125hp Force Outboard. We are planning on replaceing the floorboard due some slight rot and the transom just because we will basically be there anyway. The seats will be getting replaced as well and interior panel rebuilt and reupholstered. I just have a few questions concerning some things Im not sure about.

1. I have worked at a fiberglass shop so fiberglass is not new to me. However, coating all the wood during this restore is slightly new. I am planning on mixing the poly resin 50/50 with Acetone and then adding the catalyst to coat the wood. If I mix 1 pint resin and 1 pint Acetone, will this mixer get catalyst for 2 pint or just the 1 pint resin?

2. Does anyone know why this boat would have 2 layers of plywood originally from the factory for the floor?

3. Does anyone know if this particular boat has any flotation foam?

4. Does anyone know of a good method to do gelcoat repair on the bottom of the boat without flipping it over? Or, I would prefer to flip it over so does anyone know a good method to flip the hull over. This will of course be without no interior or cap on the boat and possibly only the transom and floorboard installed.

I am trying to get all my materials up before we start the project and I know there will be odds and ends we will have to come up with during the project but Im trying to get the main items ahead of time. This restoration is on a budget but we are not cutting corners so we need to get the largest portion of the materials before we begin.

Thanks
Robert

 

[roscottjr]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

Also, 1 other question. I am planning on painting the dashes as they are faded fairly bad from the sunlight and weather. The driver dash has a decal on it with the boat ratings. Is it possible to get a replacement decal or do I need to tape it up to preserve it in tact when I paint or is it ok to just remove the decal? This decal has the weight, person, and hp ratings for the boat.

Robert

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

Also, 1 other question. I am planning on painting the dashes as they are faded fairly bad from the sunlight and weather. The driver dash has a decal on it with the boat ratings. Is it possible to get a replacement decal or do I need to tape it up to preserve it in tact when I paint or is it ok to just remove the decal? This decal has the weight, person, and hp ratings for the boat.

Robert

You could try looking up the the boat maker and see about ordering a new one. I know you can with Checkmate.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

I have a 1988 MAXUM Bowrider with 125hp Force Outboard. We are planning on replaceing the floorboard due some slight rot and the transom just because we will basically be there anyway. The seats will be getting replaced as well and interior panel rebuilt and reupholstered. I just have a few questions concerning some things Im not sure about.

1. I have worked at a fiberglass shop so fiberglass is not new to me. However, coating all the wood during this restore is slightly new. I am planning on mixing the poly resin 50/50 with Acetone and then adding the catalyst to coat the wood. If I mix 1 pint resin and 1 pint Acetone, will this mixer get catalyst for 2 pint or just the 1 pint resin?
I heard you can mix acetone to help it penetrate but it's been recommended by some very good sources here to not add acetone.

2. Does anyone know why this boat would have 2 layers of plywood originally from the factory for the floor?
I'm not familar with Maxum to answer this.

3. Does anyone know if this particular boat has any flotation foam?
If 20' and under (or maybe 18'), I think it is a requirement for the boat makers to have foam unless you're boat has been worked on in the past.

4. Does anyone know of a good method to do gelcoat repair on the bottom of the boat without flipping it over? Or, I would prefer to flip it over so does anyone know a good method to flip the hull over. This will of course be without no interior or cap on the boat and possibly only the transom and floorboard installed.
Depends on what type of repairs you're doing. If doing spot repair that's accessible, you should be alright leaving it as is.

There is another thread with the subject of flipping the boat that's being discussed also.

I am trying to get all my materials up before we start the project and I know there will be odds and ends we will have to come up with during the project but Im trying to get the main items ahead of time. This restoration is on a budget but we are not cutting corners so we need to get the largest portion of the materials before we begin.
Try US Composites for fiberglassing materials. They're probably one of the cheapest.

Thanks
Robert

I hope that helps.

 

[oops!]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

hi......big red nailed it.....but im going to add to his stuff......

every question you asked is covered in great detail in the hull extension thread....read it....it will take you a day or so.....but every thing is covered, including flipping the hull.....twice. and when you are done reading it .....you will know all the easy ways ....and what not to do....lol

1. do not thin the resin with aceitone or any other product......if for some unkown reason you must (but there isnt one).....to a maximum of 10%

2.your boat does not have 2 factory layers......someone covered up the rot with another sheet of ply.

3. yes, your boat has foam.

4.after grinding and cleaning the repair area.....fill with gellcoat by painting it on....then after its cured.......sand it to a fine finish.....(this is covered in the hull thread. including the hull flip)

5.....im not a big fan of ordering glass supplies on line.....its faster if you drive down the street and get the stuff.
fiber glass is allways locally avalible.....(unless your in a really small town) check all local plastic shops....look in the phone book under fiberglass supplys....if not....ask at a local boat repair shop.

cheers
oops

 

[foodfisher]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

Double layer of plywood is probably only at joints and edges for extra support.

 

[allpoints360]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

I am planning on mixing the poly resin 50/50 with Acetone and then adding the catalyst to coat the wood. If I mix 1 pint resin and 1 pint Acetone, will this mixer get catalyst for 2 pint or just the 1 pint resin?

I believe it's a good idea to thin the resin on the first coat on bare plywood as it does help with penetration. Afterward, not a good idea to thin.

Use catalyst for the amount of resin, not the amount of acetone.

Good luck!

 

[Numlaar]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

I have a 1988 MAXUM Bowrider with 125hp Force Outboard. We are planning on replaceing the floorboard due some slight rot and the transom just because we will basically be there anyway. The seats will be getting replaced as well and interior panel rebuilt and reupholstered. I just have a few questions concerning some things Im not sure about.

1. I have worked at a fiberglass shop so fiberglass is not new to me. However, coating all the wood during this restore is slightly new. I am planning on mixing the poly resin 50/50 with Acetone and then adding the catalyst to coat the wood. If I mix 1 pint resin and 1 pint Acetone, will this mixer get catalyst for 2 pint or just the 1 pint resin?

I second Rhino on this one... I would recommend against cutting the resin with that much acetone... it would most likely cut the strength of it down too much... as for the catalyst, you would mix it for the amount of resin... the thinner doesnt matter, it will kick regardless.

3. Does anyone know if this particular boat has any flotation foam?

Yes all boats manufactured after 1974 and 20' or less are required by U.S. Coast Guard manufacturing standards to have floation foam to achieve neutral buoyancy.

4. Does anyone know of a good method to do gelcoat repair on the bottom of the boat without flipping it over? Or, I would prefer to flip it over so does anyone know a good method to flip the hull over. This will of course be without no interior or cap on the boat and possibly only the transom and floorboard installed.

Second again for Rhino, it really depends on what you are going to do... its its spot repairs, then flipping may not be necessary... however if you are going to spray a whole new coat or whole new coat of paint, flipping it is about the only way to go... read the flipping thread, and other restore thread for ideas... I built a flipper rack when I did mine (link is in my sig).

Good luck with it!

 

[roscottjr]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

oops,

roscottjr Join Date: Jun 2006

I love the search feature and have been useing it since I joined to rebuild/repair numurous boats. I currently own 3 that have been restored thanks to this forum, in-laws own 1 that has been repaired thanks to this forum.

I am subscribed to the hull extension thread and love it. Im not sure Id want to go thru everything he has but thats going to be 1 great boat.

If you include the layer of plywood that the PO put in to cover the rot then there are 3 layers. However, I think foodfisher has hit the nail on the head here. The places where I see 2 layers is just above the fuel tank in the rear and around the ski locker so I am sure it is just for extra support in those areas, possibly others. I havent torn any out but I think that may be all it is.

When doing a search for my 1988 Maxum boat there are 41 results and most are mechanical. The others that are not mechanical are mostly mine. My questions were specific that isnt covered in anything i have read. Well, I could have been more specific with the flipping part. Anyway, my questions were specific concerning things I have yet to find and I appreciate all the replies.

I do live in a small town. We have 1 auto body supply shop who can order fiberglass and resin but he has minimum quantities and not only does he cost more than uscomposites but it takes longer to get which doesnt make sense because he says he gets it from uscomposites. Go figure..lol.. My other options are Advance auto parts, Auto Zone, Home Depot, and Lowes. I would rather junk my boat than buy fiberglass or resin from any of these so I am left with either a 2 hour drive or mail order. Im not saying its not available somewhere closer but when compareing prices I found I come out cheaper with the same or better quality from uscomposites.

As far as cutting the resin, this would only be the first stage of coating the plywood such as allpoints360 mentioned. I should have been a little more clear on this as well. I was referring to thinning the resin only for the first coat in order to get better penetration in the wood. The second coat would of course but normal resin. Would this be fine or should I skip the thinning part all together? My previous boats received uncut resin but I had read somewhere that thinning the first coat will get a better penetration into the wood.

Concerning the foam, I will be replaceing any foam currently in the boat with 2lb density foam which in order to order the correct amount I will need to remove the floor first and see how much is there. I thought I had read somewhere that these boats did not have the foam in them and I just wanted to be sure. I recall in another thread where I had read the coast guard requirements when it comes to foam so I wanted to be sure. Since we dont know how much is in the boat I will do a rough estimate of the most that could be there and have funds for that amount set aside for whe the project actually get done.

Thanks for all the help and I will be sure to post a build thread with plenty of pics when this job begins. We are trying to come up with some upholstery desgn right now and some good seats. What does everyone think about marine seats with plastic bases? Are these all thats available or have I only found the el cheapo seats?

Robert

 

[oops!]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

oops,

roscottjr Join Date: Jun 2006



As far as cutting the resin, this would only be the first stage of coating the plywood such as allpoints360 mentioned. I should have been a little more clear on this as well. I was referring to thinning the resin only for the first coat in order to get better penetration in the wood. The second coat would of course but normal resin. Would this be fine or should I skip the thinning part all together? My previous boats received uncut resin but I had read somewhere that thinning the first coat will get a better penetration into the wood.

Robert

this fourm is truly exellent !
you had also said that you didnt want to do go thru every thing i have....lol....i wouldnt wish that on any one........tee hee...
i was over one year sanding and fairing...

a few things about poly resin.....

a lot of people try things with poly resin....like " a hot batch @ 10 or 20 % MEKP...or thinning the resin....when they do this...the resin stregnth is actually compromised.....
however the user sees that the resin got hard, or the bond still worked.....and they think that "it worked"
the truth is.....that resin and mekp is a chemical formula......too much of one thing or not enough of another....and the strength is compromised.

the interior coat of resin is the one that you want the most.

according to ondarvr.....(this site and one of the nations foremost experts on glass/resin/gellcoat.)
when first coating plywood with resin.....the trick is to use a cold batch..@1.7 mekp..(longer cure time)...also if you can coat in a cooler room....approx 65 degrees.

paint the wood with resin....and let sit till allmost cured....just sticky...(watch out here cause unwaxed is sticky for days....but is cured after only a few minits). then glass the wood with a regular batch of resin...between 1.7 and 2.4 % in regular glassing temps.....

if you add any aceitone you will only hurt the resin and make it weaker.
as you allready know from past restorations....resin without glass is very brittle and weak..(remember the thin coating left on the pails that you crumpled in your hand?..if you thin it it will be even weaker......therefore will make the undercoating prone to crack. leaving only the top coat for water intrusion protection...

having said all this....it wont sink your boat and kill you if you thin it....but you will be defeating the purpose of the undercoating in the first place...

too bad about being too far from a glass shop.....i just cant stand sitting there with only a two foot layer of 1708 to finish the job and being short resin....then having to wait a week for a shipment

any hoo......im looking forward to seeing your resto......

cheers
oops

 

[oops!]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

btw.....i just did a maxium stringer deck job last month......

yes ...foam.....about $250 worth

again....cheers
oops

 

[roscottjr]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

Excellent information. I dont believe I will be thinning any of the resin.

Also, yes I have noticed many times how brittle the resin is when it is on its one. I always use something with the resin whether it be fiber or microballoons or whatever.

I would rather my project look smooth instead of looking like a dried up lake..lol

Now I feel dumb. I didnt even realize the hull extension was yours. I guess that just proves I was watching the project and not who was doing it..lol..It looks great and I know you are looking forward to getting it in the water. I have 1 question though, what do you do about the original ratings for the boat? Obviously the boat is larger and should be able to take more passengers and weight but is there some type of inspection you have to get in order to up the ratings?

The wife said you have too much time on your hands and told me not to get any ideas on our boat..lol

By the way, Im going to post this comment on you hull extension thread also..lol.. The wife said to tell you I sell dance poles on ecrater..lol

Robert

 

[oops!]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

heh heh heh.....we want to add a stripper pole to the wake tower...

as far as the ratings for weigh and occupancy.......the uscg has ratings and forumulas....

however....it requires sinking the boat ...

this is to determine the weight of the water the boat can displace...

well....i didnt do that !.....

so im just gonna say screw it and pick a nice round number from a similar length boat

 

[allpoints360]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

if you add any aceitone you will only hurt the resin and make it weaker.
as you allready know from past restorations....resin without glass is very brittle and weak..(remember the thin coating left on the pails that you crumpled in your hand?..if you thin it it will be even weaker......therefore will make the undercoating prone to crack. leaving only the top coat for water intrusion protection...

An old fiberglass man told me that he thinned his first coat of resin for application to wood, but only a little... maybe 10 -15%.

I would defer to the experts on this site because I am not one. Thanks oops!

 

[roscottjr]

Re: A few questions on boat restoration

I have another question concerning polyester resin. I will be working mostly in around 40 to 50 degree F weather when I do this project. I dont mind the resin taking slightly longer to fully kick but will the resin still retain its strength in these temperatures? I dont have facilities to keep things any warmer than the outside temperature. Also, at these temperatures what would be a good mix ratio for the resin and hardener?

Robert