General Clarification.-
General Clarification.-
Sibrider,
To start with, you haven’t read the entire post throughout fully, have been stepping stone through the topics, all of which are technically related to each other.-
As stated since the very beginning, the post is only applicable to standard sibs and ribs bearing Tohatsu engines which most Tohatsu boaters knows are prone to experiment unwanted water splashes and bad behavior mostly due to their lower legs shapes issues if not correctly height seated.-
Have stated clearly at bottom of post that don't work with deep V inflatable decks nor sibs that uses speed tubes, mainly because I work with just sib/ribs and Tohatsu engines all of which can be seen here :
Sea Rider Boats/Tohatsu Photo Gallery by Luis Montero at pbase.com
All sibs/ribs shown have been factory transom height modified to perfectly match Tohatsu engines, the post corresponds to the tests done to different sib/rib under trial and error on a ideal rowing track with no wind flat glassy water course. No ideal AV plate "cast on stone" heights 1” to 2.5” stated on all engine’s owner manual were taken into consideration as I like to sit lower leg much diferently.-
As mentioned before, you need as a first starter to sit your engine brand at any given sib/rib transom delivered height, go for a wot spin and check if already you happen to have matched the sweet leg/transom height spot or experiencing frustrating out or over water splashes or aeration problems at back transom.-
You have ventured to give very imprecise, exaggerated & contentious personal theoretical poinst of view that will prove not applicable with tech facts, yours is plain Mars Theory : So the only point you haven’t got clear so far is with respect to leg height and drag. You quoted saying the following : Give me any rational reason why for general performance it's better to drag more gear case through water than necessary? It's like adding parachute to your car and claiming it will go faster and save fuel to be brutally honest.-
Nobody is dragging gear case more on water at wot, you have not taken into the least account that all engines have a sharp front angle of attack that usually measures 3” in height where water flow at speed is perfectly and immaculate cut as a cheese there, then it’s smooth-out against perfectly torpedo rounded gear case housing and out to wake.-
If you lower leg for flow to skim above upper water deflector plate will have splash issues and increment leg drag, on the contrary, if you raise leg for flow to skim above AV plate, will lose best prop thrust and experiment prop aeration issues at choppy water conditions and at close turns, both cases at speed.-
A sib with speed tubes has a completely different behavior than a standard sib/rib, you already know that, can't be placed on same sack, don't understand why you like mixing mangos with prunes, Milpo to non Milpo sibs, Suzuki to Tohatsu engines, having all different water performances between them. Sibrider, do yourself a big favor, ask Suzuki or Zodiac Milpo tech dept to help you out to solve your sib/engine combo own tech flaws to quit contaminating this tread with post, pics and untested tech facts that do NOT APPLY.-
The overall idea of the whole post was to optimize max rpm up to 50 HP engines delivered with factory standard props, to obtain best prop thrust, impeccable close turns at speed at any water condition, optimize fuel consumption by needing to throtle less if boating with a sib or rib. On flat glassy waters both cruising behaviors are exact same as long sib's tubes and keel are inflated to max factory recommended working psi with gauge to achieve opt slide with least hull drag.-
Fbpooler, thanks for your kind tread support, but due to human nature, you will always find people that don't like seeing farther than their nose…
Happy Boating
