Advice on starting '68 6HP Johnson after sitting for 10 years

[olympic]

I was given a 1968 CD-25A Johnson 6HP Outboard by a family member. He owned it since new. It has been sitting for 10 years, but was fogged down prior to it being stored. He says it's always been a good runner.

My question is whether I should go through the trouble of changing impeller, lower unit oil, etc before attempting to start it. I'm tempted to just check the plug and if it looks okay pump some fresh fuel in and see if she'll start. Of course if she's not pumping water shortly after starting I would shut it down.

I don't want to risk hurting the motor, but would also like to confirm that she will run before investing lots of effort into it. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would try to start it. however most likely the carb gaskets are dry, the o-rings on the tank fuel hose are split, the impeller has long taken a set and the output seal on the bottom of the powerhead is original and will need replacing.

I would pull the spark plugs and spray a bit of wd40 in the holes. then spray a bit of fuel/oil mix into the carb and try it.

do not try to start it with ether.

 

[oldboat1]

^^^agree. Dunk it deep in a barrel. If you get it running, keep it in the idle range and try to keep it running for a while. Monitor temp, and keep a hose running in the barrel to refresh the water.

 

[racerone]

Were the 2 ignition coils ever replaced ?-------If not they will need to be.

 

[Tim Frank]

I would pull the spark plugs and spray a bit of wd40 in the holes.

You'd be better using something with some lubricating properties....like O/B oil.
There is a section in the "Top Secret Files" on "awakening a sleeping O/B". Read that before trying to start it.

 

[olympic]

I took a look through the awakening a sleeping O/B at http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ning-a-sleeping-outboard-by-boatbuoy?t=158086.

I realize all of those things probably need to be done (change impeller, replace lower unit oil, change plug, rebuild carbs, replace seals, etc). I just wasn't sure if all of those need to be done before seeing if she will run to assess the overall condition and viability of sinking the maintenance money into it. I was thinking of pulling the plugs and shooting some fogging oil (since I have some) in there to lubricate the cylinder walls. I can certainly drip a bit of TCW3 oil in too.

I'll probably check the lower unit oil first too just to see what it looks like and if bad will change that out. I know it will need a change before being used.

For good measure will put in fresh plugs. So other than that and oiling the cylinders it sounds like I can try to give her a start knowing those maintenance items will still be needed. I want to make sure she turns over. Will probably try this weekend. The carb gaskets might be too far gone, or perhaps the coils are done for, will see.

Thanks for the responses!

 

[oldboat1]

nah, see if you can fire it up -- then see what needs to be done (or what you want to take on). Stay out of the weeds a little. btw -- all that lube in the cylinder may make it hard to fire. If it was fogged, that's enough. Pull it over a little, or turn the flywheel a turn or so clockwise to lube the rings. Use fresh fuel and oil in a clean tank at about 24:1, and see if you can run it a little. These are tough little buggers.

 

[olympic]

Okay, I sprayed it yesterday with fogging oil in each cylinder and checked the plugs. Today I put some fresh pre-mix in my portable tank, connected it and gave her a pull. Well three pulls actually and she fired up strong. I checked and had water coming out the outlet...but rather than a steady stream it was more spitting as opposed to the steady stream I'm used to on my 110HP, but a fair volume. It ran for about a minute and then slowly died. Reminded me of running out of fuel. I pumped the bulb and was able to add a little pressure to it and started it again and it started right up. Once again it died after a bit but this time I was ready to give it more fuel at the throttle but it didn't make any difference, still died.

I then started it a third time and was going to start pumping the bulb when it slowed down to help try to debug this possible fuel delivery issue but instead this time noticed that no water was coming out the water outlet at the back so I immediately shut it down.

I don't know how long the motor needs to run before water should start pumping out....I was just nervous to keep it running after noticing no water pumping. However, it definitely pumped on the first two starts but I didn't notice if it was right away or took a few seconds to start. I waited about 10 minutes then gave her another start and she started right up, I immediately looked for water coming from the outlet, but again nothing so shut if off.

I'd appreciate any thoughts on the water pumping issue as well as this running for a minute and then dying. I feel like the good news is that it fired and ran, even it was just for a minute. It seems that it will start consistently. It pumped some water initially, maybe the impeller died even though it made it through two starts??

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

 

[oldboat1]

Change out the impeller. Believe there is a t.stat -- should figure on changing that out, but would run it again first in the barrel after the new impeller. Think I would take it a step at a time now, but absolutely sounds like it's got potential. Work on the cooling system first. (Find an online parts blow up at least, maybe a service manual.)

 

[olympic]

Change out the impeller.

Thanks for the lightening fast response! Okay I will work on getting an impeller and installing that first.

 

[racerone]

Water should pour out with the exhaust on the exhaust housing.----It should pour out after about 3 seconds of run time !

 

[olympic]

Have the new impeller in hand. I have the lower unit off but can't slide the water pump/impeller housing up off the drive shaft because there is a pin up towards the top of the driveshaft sticking out almost 1/4" that prevents the housing from being able to slide pass it. Do I need to drive that pin out and then put it back in after putting in the new impeller and sliding the housing back down? I'm not finding this in the instructions. Thanks in advance for any guidance!

 

[oldboat1]

pretty sure the powerhead has to be removed in order to service the water pump. Need a service manual, or at least a parts blow up for reference. Not sure how you could get the shift rod down, but in any case there is a spring and seal assembly up at the top of the driveshaft, held in place by that pin. On similar models, the assembly is removed from the top, shift rod disconnected up at the powerhead, and the lower unit dropped. The pin can be removed from the driveshaft (put back in after the impeller is switched out.)

 

[olympic]

On this 6hp outboard luckily I don't have to remove the powerhead. It will drop down after the shift linkage is removed and the flywheel rotated slightly such that the pin will align and let it drop. That pin though is keeping me from being able to slide that impeller housing up and off the driveshaft. I'll try carefully driving it out. Thanks

 

[oldboat1]

OK. Some lube and a little tapping, maybe a vise grip to get hold of it.

 

[olympic]

OK. Some lube and a little tapping, maybe a vise grip to get hold of it.

Success! Got the pin out. Put the new key and impeller on and then put the housing on....man is that a press fit to get that over the impeller. I trust that once this fires up the impeller will flex it way around in the right position.

I have the pin back in the driveshaft. The one thing here that I neglected to note was which way the pin was facing when the driveshaft dropped out. So, good time for a dinner break and will try to assemble later this eve or in the morning. Thanks again for the prompt responses!

 

[racerone]

??????----When you rotate the driveshaft the housing practically falls on over the impeller.

 

[oldboat1]

yeah, next time you do it, will likely be easier. Will want to be sure the key is engaging the impeller (if l.u. still off, can turn the driveshaft clockwise by hand and should feel the resistance of the impeller in the cup.)

 

[olympic]

Ah, makes sense that when I was bolting down the housing that I should have been rotating the driveshaft to help get that impeller housing over the impeller tips a bit easier. I'll probably work on getting the lower unit bolted back up in the morning.

 

[olympic]

Well, I put it all back together and barrel tested it, no water coming out the outlet. Waited about 5 seconds and nothing, then put it in gear for a couple seconds and still nothing so shut if off. Started one more time briefly but nothing. Hmmm. I'll drop the LU back off and just double check things there. I feel confident the impeller and key were correct and I tried as best I could to make sure that the water tube lined up when installing (can't really see in there very well when bolting it back together).

Strangely when I first started a week ago after motor sitting for a long time it was spitting water the first two starts and then nothing. Just putting that out there in case it helps in debugging process.

The impeller I took out actually looked to be in good condition.

The screen looks clear for the water inlet. Should I pull the impeller housing off and try blowing some compressed air at the water inlet and see if it seems to be flowing up into the impeller area?

Should I be doing the same thing where I can see the water tube that goes up into the power head to see if air comes out the exhaust outlet? Just wasn't sure if the components in there can handle some air pressure or not. Thoughts?

I'll be getting lots of practice dropping the lower unit here. I did check the LU oil and it looks good (no water whatsoever).

My fuel problem (engine ran at first for about a minute and died) might be due to a bad fuel filter gasket...noticed it leaking some fuel this time as I was starting with the cover off.

Thanks again in advance for any tips/advice as I work through this. I'm pretty new to outboards so it's an interesting learning experience.