after pull the heads won't start

[Don S]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

forget the last comment the cam is fine has to be.. I am going to start from scratch tommorrow ...

That's what you said you was going to do today? What happened?

Remember this from post #13

I accept will post results tommorrow

 

[MikDee]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

It sounds like your valve adjustment is out?

 

[Don S]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

It sounds like your valve adjustment is out?

Who knows, earlier he had 120, now it's 151-170. But if all are that high, I can't see the valves being the cause of it not starting. of course that could be 151 - 170 on the ones that have compression, and a few don't have any. But who can guess at this stage.

 

[JustJason]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

arggg... don't be looken at dem valves when you install the distro shaft. just bump with a remote starter till you feel compression, then whip it over by hand until the balancer is at "exactly" 0. Watching the valves close and saying close enough, and getting it set to exactly 0, are 2 different things.
Do you own a timing light?

 

[krisnowicki]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

don, I started today by going to sears ... my compression tester was from the 70's it was my dads... thought it was still working... got the new one and i was getting the new results... guess the old on was a little stiff. Anyways I did start fresh today but with no results... so tomorrow I will pull it apart again and double and triple check everything... i do appreciate your help...

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

Was following this thread closely...............any update?

 

[krisnowicki]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

well i pulled everything in the ignition apart again. I took all plugs out and turn the engine over to TDC with both valves closed on cylinder number 1. Set the timing. Then i tested every wire and spark plug before i put them back in. and I had spark to every one. I have 12 volts at the dist and coil. I looked down the barrel of the carb and gas will and is spraying into the intake when it should be. So i put the key in and it turns over but doesnt start agian. I am going to do a compression test again to make sure I was getting 150-60 but i dont know I have fuel fire and time... It makes me feel like an idiot but ... i put this engine in 5 months ago and i had it running like a top..... no nothing. I am a law school student and can only work onit when I have time ... so i will get to it tomorrow or Tuesday and try to go through it again. I have to be missing something

 

[Don S]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

I took all plugs out and turn the engine over to TDC with both valves closed on cylinder number 1.

Did you verify the timing mark was on 0? TDC when both valves were closed.

 

[MikDee]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

A couple of items here, when you turn your igniton switch to crank, do you have spark at the plugs? I'm guessing you do if it's backfiring, but once you release the ignition switch back to Run, or On, (not crank) is there juice at the distributor? if not, it could be a bad ignition switch? because it is possible to get spark while cranking, but not on run, or on, but I think you could probably figure this out by looking at if your gauges are working or not.

Next, when you dropped your Dist. in, and had the rotor pointing at Cyl #1, did you notice if the Dist. sensor inside was set to a high point on the star wheel, or trigger, (or whatever you want to call it) at the time (like the high point on a cam for ignition points) if not, you'll have to turn your Dist. one way or the other till it fires up.

Finally if all the above don't work, you still maybe 180*(degrees out) and firing on #6, with the rotor set to #1

Wait, you do have a working choke on that motor right, because it'll never start cold without one.

Good Luck, Mike

 

[krisnowicki]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

Ok so I have gas and comp... as you guys have been telling me to do I went back over the ignition system again. I went out and bought a spark plug testing tool... Here is the results. I have the timing perfectly at top dead center on the right stroke. I am getting gas and compression 148-160 on all cylinders. I put the spark tester on and the psar is there but I hear a popping at the distributor every time and the spark is red or yellow not blue. I think this is the proplem. So i pulled the distributor apart. I have a new rotor cap coil and wires. All the wiring going to each of them is 12v's and when I pull the distributor apart I have a mystrey screw in side.
This screw runs down trhough the bottom and makes contact with the rotor when not screw all the way down. When it is screwed all the say down it is below the rotor. IT seems to be a ground but there is no wire for it. Is the distributor supposed to have a ground and should this screw contact the rotor or be screwed all the way down?
Also when I have the cap off to spin the engine when I was timing it . I saw the distributor crack sparks at the opposite end of where the rotor was... Wierd....

My distributer is the two terminal with nuts style thunderbolt distributor

As always any help would be appreciated.

And to don s.
I was reading you other post about the salt water engine. You should set up a paypal fund and let those of us like my self you helo so much and let us contribute to the Don S. retiresoIdon'thavetoworkonsaltyengine'sfund

Just a thought
But seriuosly thanks

 

[Don S]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

This screw runs down trhough the bottom and makes contact with the rotor when not screw all the way down. When it is screwed all the say down it is below the rotor.

It's time for some pictures, no way does that statement make any sense at all. There is no screw in the distributor cap that goes to the rotor. There are 4 screws on the outside of the cap that mounts it to the distributor, but that is it for screws on the distributor cap.

 

[JustJason]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

are you talking about the 3 screws that screw the reluctor to the rotor???

Did you put in this new rotor.. or did somebody else.

I've seen people screw and old reluctor to an automotive rotor that comes without the reluctor. It usually ends up bending the thing.
Pull the rotor off and look at the bottom of the reluctor. Make sure its straight and not bent. Look on the inside of it to for scrapes. That would mean that it's warped and hitting the hall effect sensor. replace the rotor with a new mercury one (not automotive) it will come with a new reluctor as part of it.

 

[Coors]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

If you have compression, and fuel, and spark, then 99% chance the spark is not happening at the right time.
Your mission, should you accept it, is to go over the ignition system again.
I have run up against this before myself, and I know how to do it. But when checking my own work I always miss the same thing. So try this.
Pull all the plug wires off the cap (you can leave them hooked to the spark plug) Then take the cap off the distributor. Now, remove the distributor.
Go to the helm and crank the engine a couple of seconds.
Now, go put it all together again. Bet it works.

Is this due to the distributor never dropped down, due to oil pump shaft not being aligned?

 

[Don S]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

Also when I have the cap off to spin the engine when I was timing it . I saw the distributor crack sparks at the opposite end of where the rotor was... Wierd....

That shouldn't happen, and I really don't know what you mean by " distributor crack sparks at the opposite end of where the rotor was"

Pictures with circles and arrows and ................... OMG, sounds like Alices Restaurant

 

[krisnowicki]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

pictures tommorrow... The screw is underneath the rotor not on the cap it looks like it would ground the rotor... I know this sounds wierd.

 

[krisnowicki]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

the reason i am asking this is the wiring diagram I have does not have a ground for the distributer and that is kind of wierd huh?

 

[JustJason]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

the spark plug is the ground for the distributer....
That make better sense?

pull your rotor... check your reluctor.

 

[Don S]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

What are the EXACT part numbers of the cap and rotor you put on? I know you say it doesn't start, but does it pop, bang, backfire, or anything? or just spin and nothing???? Does it sound like it has compression?

To be quite honest, I am beginning to think you are at the point you need to find a qualified dealer to look at it.
Just think, inside a half hour he could probably have it running great over some little thing that you overlooked, didn't mention, or didn't notice for what ever reason.

 

[MikDee]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

the reason i am asking this is the wiring diagram I have does not have a ground for the distributer and that is kind of wierd huh?

The Distrbutor base is ground also.

 

[JustJason]

Re: after pull the heads won't start

the distro base can be considered as part of the block... and therefore a ground.
But a ground for what..... is what you have to ask.

I've seen ignition modules in TB5's grounded to both the distro, and over at the ignition box... doesn't really matter as well as its a good connection.

When you think of electronics and how things work, you have to get off of this "ground" thing.
Voltage/current flows in loops. a "ground" is mearly part of the overall circuit, and therefore is in the "loop"
The beginning is also the end. Voltage must pass full circle, through a load, and back to the source. It all starts, and ends, with the battery.

Try not to use the word ground. It can be misleading. Use the words "common loop termination point" instead... When describing "grounds"

I'd bet half the people here cannot say with confidence how electricity flows.

Does it flow from the positive terminal to the negative?? Does it flow from the negative to the positive??? Is it both????? or do you not know?......
Think conventional.... then think electron.