Alarm question--new boat, no manual

[SWO2842]

I just 3 days ago, bought this 1995 boat with a 1996 V6 150HP mariner XL, serial # OG925511. The engine has 334 hours and the boat was either kept on a lift or a trailer No bottom paint, and we live on the west coast of FL. I bought the boat from an RV boat dealer who'd just taken it in on trade. <br /><br />We did a brief sea trial and I trailered it home, bottom painted it, and launched it to bring to my dock. This is about a mile at idle. All ok so far. I next did a about a 20 minute idle speed canal tour through our addition, when a an intermittant bing, bing, bing, bing alarm started to sound. I noticed the heat guage reading was ok and no red lights were showing. I had a water stream from the engine, even though the water pressure guage was reading right at zero at idle, but would come up to 5-10 with more throttle. <br /><br />Having no owner's manual, I had no way to interpret this alarm. From several old posts here, I think this is an oil alarm, not an overheat alarm, and I checked the oil reservoir and topped it off even though it was about half full, and from another old here, I discovered that the engine has a tank in addition to the remote reservoir. I found and checked this tank which was full, and I started the engine, cracked the cap and let a bit of oil bleed out as an old post instructed.<br /><br />What next? I get a test beep, beep, beep, when I turn on the key, the engine starts fine but the alarm comes on immediately, even with a cold engine. If I kick the throttle up to 1000 rpms or so the alternator kicks in ok, I get a nice water stream and movement on the water pressure guage.<br /><br />Is what I'm describing an oil alarm, and is the engine oiling ok if the engine tank is full, regardless of what the alarm is doing---or is this related somehow to the low water pressure? <br /><br />I'm hoping to download or purchase an owner's manual if/when I can get through to Merc Marine, and probably a service manual as well, but could sure use help in the meantime, understanding what this alarm is, and if I should be worried about water pressure.<br /><br />Thanks, Steve

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm question--new boat, no manual

hello<br />switch to a remote tank with 50-1 premix immediatly. do no futher running or testing until you do. its possible that after sitting on the lot the oil pump drive shft rusted some. just after that it will wipe out the nylon pump drive gear. the pump drive shaft has a rotation sensor that feeds information as an analog voltage signal to the alarm module. the module has a signal from the switchbox to tell it if the motor is running or not. if the running signal is present and the rotational signal is not the oil alarm sounds.however, one the up side. sometimes if the switchbox fails it will trigger the alarm. and sometimes the engine tank switch fails and some times the cursed module fails. but we will go with a worst case. that is why I say all testing to be done with 50-1 premix from a clean remote tank. can you use a VOM? can you follow instructions from a service manual? do you have any electronics knowledge<br /> post us back and we can help.

 

[SWO2842]

Re: Alarm question--new boat, no manual

I believe I can disconnect the fuel line at the water separater and I do have several 6 gallon tanks for my smaller 3 and 15 HP outboards so I can switch over to 50:1 without adding oil to my primary 50-60??? gallon tank. Hadn't thought of that, thanks.<br /><br />I have several volt/ohm meters and have some electrical and mechanical skills, and can follow shop/bench manuals fairly well, but am very sketchy on electronics.<br /><br />Would the fact that we ran it up to full speed, even if only for a few minutes during the sea trials, and that I ran it at idle for maybe 40 minutes total --altogether an hour plus run time---before we got an alarm--mean that the pump was operating ok after sitting on the lot---or could it have been chewing up the nylon gear the whole time?<br /><br />If this is an oil pump drive shaft/gear problem, is this an in water fix or should I switch over to a mixed gas tank and re-trailer the boat--- before I sell the trailer, which I was going to do next? If this is the problem, am I better off fixing it, or going to mixed gas on a permanent basis?<br /><br />Bearing in mind I do not have any manuals or diagrams, I'd appreciate your further instructions, and will attempt to follow them as best I can to test the sender signals.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm question--new boat, no manual

hello<br /> tyhe pump drive gear is an ongoing problem. most fail due to an extended idle period while going back to the marina then sitting for several motnths. that is a draw back to variable ratio oiling systems. it leaves the shiney parts with not enough protection during periods of non use. <br /> now ya gotta buy a service manual. yes you can use your remote tank at the waterseperator. just dump the gas from the seperator and refill it from the remote tank.<br /> an easy way to do this with no test equipment or manual is to simply remove the oil pump. do not dissconnect any lines you may have to unclip the drive link. take notes as to where the timing marks on the pump body and pump arm are. remove the drive shaft be aware that the shaft has a ball magnet and a spring. its not going to fly out but small parts may drop. use a good focused beam flshlight and look at the<br />drive gear. if its failed it will be obvious. but I really reccomend buying the correct factory manual and testing each system. like I say could be a float switch failure in the engine tank, could be an alarm module failre could be a rotation sensor failure or it could actually be a failure of the pump drive alarm. try not to run it much until the failure is identified and run only at idle and with premix.<br /> if its already damaged we want to lessen further damage

 

[SWO2842]

Re: Alarm question--new boat, no manual

I'll switch over to the samll remote tank and purchase or order a manual before proceeding. Do you have a favorite between Clymer or Seloc?<br /><br />Also a few more quick questions if you would---does this engine take 87 octane fuel or should it be higher, and is the low water pressure a problem, or is lower better, meaning not much clogging up? Does the engine need to be running to flush with a water hose and does the engine need to be vertical to flush or is tilted up ok?<br /><br />I understand little motors, auto type inboard engines and yanmar diesels but have never had anything like this.<br /><br />Thank you VERY MUCH for your help.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm question--new boat, no manual

hello<br /> keep the motor vertical when running on a flusher.<br />87 octane is fine. I prefer the merc manual. the water pressure specs,best memory serves, is 12 psi at 2000 rpm. but there again its in the merc manual.<br /> and NEVER NEVER EVER did I say NEVER?, run that motor without full water pressure on the flush muffs or the lower unint completly submerged in water. that motor was a solid desighn. the oil pump drive gear was a weak spot. but we figgued out what caused most failures with it. most are caused by extensive idling before storage and the driven gear would rust some and then it would chew up the drive gear. every failure I have seen involved rust on the driven gear.<br /> any other questions

 

[robalofish]

Re: Alarm question--new boat, no manual

I would second the advise of rodbolt...<br /><br />Get the Mercury manual. I bought the others and then bought the Mercury book wish I done the reverse.<br /><br />One other thing, If you don't have a maintenance history on your boat, I would change the stat's and the water pump impeller just as a starting point for regular maint. As they should be changed at minimum every 24/months.<br /><br />Water pressure spec from my manual " 12PSI min @ 5500 RPM"<br /><br />Mines a 1994/200hp/carbed -- uses the same book.