Almost ready to throw in the towel lol.. omc cobra 4.3l outdrive problems

68dustin

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Jun 26, 2009
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So starting last year I've been fighting to get this thing to shift into gear. I've replaced the shifter cables, the throttle cables. I have ordered all the correct tools and taken the outdrive off a few times double checking all my measurements. This thing will not go into forward & reverse. I can adjust it to have forward, but then no reverse. I can make it have reverse, but no forward. I've adjusted it to have the prop lock in the driveway and while on the muffs. (seems great) then in the water it will clunk a lot then jump into gear (one direction) either forward or reverse) Anybody have any ideas?? This boat isn't worth it to me to spend thousands on.. I'm wondering if something in the outdrive is just worn out...
 
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Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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Did you check:
Shift cable drag and shift cable has equal throw in fwd and rev
Shift rod height with the drive off and still with the drive off:
Did you check to see if the drive will shift from N to Fwd and N to Rev using the shift rod; while someone turns the driveshaft?

Last after adjusting the transom shift cable did you adjust the remote cable at the shift bell crank on the engine bracket? Both cables must be adjusted right for it to shift properly.
 
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wrench 3

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What year is it and what defines weather it jumps out of gear in forward or reverse?
 

MRS

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have you done this yet? What year is your boat?
kwshift2.jpg
 
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68dustin

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Jun 26, 2009
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The boat is a 1988 sunbird with a cobra omc outdrive. I have went thru those instructions about 3 times.. always same result. Once it goes into gear the boat will not pop out of gear. I can manual shift it with my hand and it goes into gear nice and smooth. (having cable unhooked from linkage and pulling it and pushing it by hand) It just seems like there's slack in the cable (transom shift cable was not cheap aftermarket). I've replaced all the cables other than the throttle cable. In the drive way it goes into forward and reverse about the same time either direction. (motor running) (and by manually spinning prop) I used all the correct tools when I replaced the transom shift cable and followed all instructions. The throttle is very smooth and not hard to put in gear at all.

I'll print out the instructions again (5 steps) and put it in the water and try to readjust this weekend. I'm wondering if I'm not getting all the slack out the cable.
 
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Lou C

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Is there looseness or lost motion in your remote control
 

Mo1

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I had the same problem with my outboard. I adjusted both cables till the cows came home. It shifted manually no problem. I disconnected the cables and the remote shifted smoothly. It ended up being the fricken remote control
 

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
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Is there looseness or lost motion in your remote control
Yep. I replaced my remote control and it shifted way better.

Also, make sure your forward shift cable is secure all the way from the console to the transom. If the cable is flopping around, you will get even more lost motion.
 

68dustin

Seaman
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Jun 26, 2009
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loosenss in remote controls??? where would I look to see if this is happening? up at controls by drive seat, or back in engine connection? So I should zip tie all the cables that run from shifter to rear? Make sure they are all secure all the way back?
 

bruceb58

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loosenss in remote controls??? where would I look to see if this is happening? up at controls by drive seat, or back in engine connection? So I should zip tie all the cables that run from shifter to rear? Make sure they are all secure all the way back?
Yes to zip ties and yes to the control at your helm.
 

MRS

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Yes Bruce is right no sharp bends and do not pull ties real tight just hang cables so they are not flopping and banging around.
 

bruceb58

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Nope...pull them tight so they are tight up against the steering cable as it goes toward the stern. You do not want them hanging. You would never be able to get it tight enough to compress the cable jacket.
 

MRS

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Nope...pull them tight so they are tight up against the steering cable as it goes toward the stern. You do not want them hanging. You would never be able to get it tight enough to compress the cable jacket.

That is what I was talking about Bruce :rolleyes: Plus no sharp bends at the transom...:facepalm: Mine shifts smooth as butter.
 
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jerryjerry05

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The bellcrank in the shift mechanism.
Pull and clean the area around the bellcrank.
Also check and see if the bellcrank is bent
 

68dustin

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Jun 26, 2009
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So I checked the shifter, and it doesn't seem to have any play in it. As soon as I go forward or reverse the rear linkage moves. What is the best way to adjust the top trunnion. I'm talking about the cable that runs from the shifter to the top linkage? I re-adjusted everything per instructions above and zip tied everything snug, but it seems the same. I haven't gotten a chance to get out on the water yet. On the muffs it goes nicely into gear.
 

68dustin

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Jun 26, 2009
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The bellcrank in the shift mechanism.
Pull and clean the area around the bellcrank.
Also check and see if the bellcrank is bent

when I installed the shift cable I cleaned it and it wasn't bent at all.
 
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jerryjerry05

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What are you zip tying?
​The cables need to flex and move.
You have the factory manual?
You have the tools to set it? See pic.
How did you set the shift rod height? See pic.#2
 

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68dustin

Seaman
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Jun 26, 2009
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What are you zip tying?
​The cables need to flex and move.
You have the factory manual?
You have the tools to set it? See pic.
How did you set the shift rod height? See pic.#2

I don't have the actual book, but I've printed out pages from this website with instructions, I have also split the lower outdrive and double checked the height of the dog clutch (thought that might be off) I have bought both sets of tools that you have shown in the other picture. I'm wondering if the lower outdrive is just finally worn out.

As for the zip ties, I only just zip tied the cables from the shifter to the steering cable (nothing crazy just so they wouldn't hang down) There isn't any tight bends at all.
 

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