Alpha I gen 2: newly acquired boat, couple of questions.

[Rick Stephens]

May not be adjustment issue but a sticky lower shift cable.

 

[jesse_boston]

Yep, it was badly adjusted, but that was a red herring. The reason it's dying is the lower shift cable is too sticky.
Possibly from when I replaced the shift bellows I put too much bend in it, but more likely this. Previous owner had routed it incorrectly and it rubbed on the drive shaft.

 

[jesse_boston]

Built an outdrive stand, pulled the outdrive, swapped the shift cable (rusted, bent, cracked, ground against the drive shaft... that shift cable was done), with some difficulty because i couldn't source the proper shift cable removal tool locally, none of my though-hole sockets or wrenches fit, and only one of my tenant's sockets worked.
It's all back together now, readjusted, and shifts like butter.

Maybe this week I can actually enjoy the boat? (What would the fun in that be?!?)

Next project will be to learn how to adjust the idle speed, how to know whether to make it more rich or more lean, and generally to re-learn carbs. Haven't played with carbs in 15 years.

What's the quickest way to identify weber vs rochester 4bbl carb? This is a 1995 5.7 alpha 1

 

[jesse_boston]

Made it onto the lake! Boat planes great!
It was running at around 160 while on plane, but as soon as I came down to idle the temperature alarm went off and I shut it down. After about 10 minutes I tried to start it back up, but the temp alarm was still going off, this time the gauge showed about 200 degrees.
Ended up just sitting on the lake enjoying our dinner while the engine cooled off a bit, then went straight back to the ramp.

I'm learning that I can't trust anything the seller told me. I've ordered a full impeller kit and drive oil change supplies.
Any way to test the exhaust flappers without disassembling the exhaust?
Do I need to buy new seals if I'm going to take off the elbows and risers?

 

[jesse_boston]

Also: This was exclusively a freshwater boat with raw water cooling, and my partner wants us to head to the ocean. I imagine that at 750 hours and 25 years of scale/rust buildup I can't safely install a freshwater cooling system?
My intention was to just run it, then put in a crate motor with freshwater in a few years when it needs a rebuild, if we keep this boat that long.

 

[tpenfield]

I'm learning that I can't trust anything the seller told me.

Yes, a valuable lesson.

No disrespect to a seller, but I tend to discard any information that the seller provides, and only go with what I can verify though my own inspections and research. I feel bad for the "I was told . . . " types of stories. Most have a sad ending

I always ask myself . . . 'why is this person selling this boat?' Also, don't assume that the seller knows everything about the condition of their boat . . . often, then don't know.

I would go through the cooling system and get it all sorted out before you go ocean voyaging, I suspect there are some blockages somewhere . . . Check oil coolers, thermostat housing, exhaust manifold internals, riser/elbow internals, hoses, recirculating pump, etc.

 

[jesse_boston]

Aaaaaah.
*waves arms about*



This. This, and a pile of rusty scale, should not be bouncing around in the space above the water pump inside the outdrive.
What even is it? Is this a broken off dipstick from an early gen2?
How did it get into the space above the impeller housing?

Also, thanks previous owner, clearly you paid attention to the manuals...
The pump housing seal *installation tool* was still sitting there on top of the pump housing seal.

 

[Searay205]

I don't know when mercruiser changed the design but the shift shaft seal that seals the shift shaft from the bellows part from the exhaust part has changed. On mine it is was binding and not the cable, the actual shift shaft was binding in the seal/bushing. I am in salt water. The new shift shaft bushing is stepped the old one just fit in the hole.