If they are the pop rivets on the splash well, that a tool like that would be just fine for replacing them, they also make a manual model that works just fine to replace them., I thought you were talking the rivets in the hull.
For the rivets used in the splashwell and the floor a air riveter like the one you posted is fine. Ypu will want to use blind closed end rivets with an aluminum mandrel. You can oreder them from many different sites including iboats I think as well as rivetsonline. You shouldmdomsome research on bucking solid rivets so that you will know how to fix any that leak in your hull below the waterline while your deck is out.
As for me I have replaced damaged solid tivets in my Starcraft with closed end blind trivets below our waterline with no problems. Whan I do a complete tear down to replacd the deck I will probably replace those with solid rivets as I will have access to both sides with the deck out. Check out some of the other alluminum boat restos on here to get some good info on different stages of repairs. I have only replaced our transom, and done some leaking rivet repair so far on our boat, but have learned allot from all the knowledgeable people here.
There is a link to my transom repair in my sig line. It may have some useful info in it for you.
Almost forgot you do want to use a good marine sealant like 3m 4200(removable sealant) or 3m 5200 (permanent sealant) on the rivets you replace.
I used an eyebolt to assist in my transom removal. Didn't work the first time so I decided I needed to remove the drainp
holes in the splashwell FIRST :facepalm:
Yes, up to the splash rail. There is some adhesive holding the splash well in, after I drilled out the rivets I used a composite shim gently wedged in along the seam of the splash well and gunnel. I cut the gunnels back like you did too.
I put some water in the boat and the only rivets that were really leaking were these two. PO may have welded a spot near this rib? didn't get a pic of the weld yet but it seemed to hold water fine.
One other rivet seemed to be letting through a tiny bit of water as well as two spots in the seam along the bow...
Will gluvit applied to the ENTIRE interior of the boat (rivets and seams) fix these issues?
I wouldn't apply it to the whole interior, but I would take the time to hit the rivet head with a brush stroke or two of gluvit, as long as it is not going to be exposed to sunlight and there is really no need to go above the water line with your coating.
A few solid coats of the Gluvit should fix the drip though? Is that the best product for this application? I think I still have a little of my MarineTEX
I am NOT a Tin Boat guy but I am very familiar with the Gluvit Product. It is epoxy based and very viscous (runny). Since it is epoxy based, it must be protected from the suns UV rays. It's specially formulated to remain flexible when fully cured and it's also formulated to be "runny" so it can get into the tiny cracks and crevices where leaks occur. But it won't adhere where there's dirt and water. Make sure to clean the leaking areas well with abrasives and chemical cleaners to promote adhesion. Also use a heat gun to try and remove any moisture from the inner most cracks and crevices. Try to attempt to position the boat in such a way as to allow the resin to flow into the repair area in the best way possible and to remain in the area as it cures. Use tape to "Dam Up" the area if need be. It may take several hours for the resin to "Tack Up" enuf for it to stay in place. You may need to reposition the boat several times to accommodate different areas of repair. If you take the time and effort to do this then the Gluvit can and will be a very effect and permanent sealant for your boat. A little bit can go a long way.
This area is a little concerning. Is this in the middle of a rib or near an end? Looks like a stressed area that could lead to further cracking of the rib.
This area is a little concerning. Is this in the middle of a rib or near an end? Looks like a stressed area that could lead to further cracking of the rib.
Looks like an area that may have taken a wack at one time or another, I would probably drill on either side and buck some new rivets in there to be sure.
It is towards the outer end of a rib. I have never bucked a rivet? When I pick up a hammer things end... poorly. I lack a delicate touch, but if that's the best way to fix it I can do some research. Looks like someone tried to do some repairs in that particular area before, not sure what the dark grey stuff is around the rivets.
The rib is cracked so you'll need to remove the rivets and make the repairs. I repaired a few cracked ribs in the SeaNymph and rather than use rivets I had to use SS machine screws due to the thickness of the splints and epoxy they were bedded in.
Ok. I will clean that area up and snap another pic. I also start prepping to install hardwoods in our house this week. I see that being a momentum killer but I will definitely be seeing this FALCON project through to the end and hopefully done right.
WATERMANN that looks like a great fix! Added reinforcement too seems smart. Can I ask you what materials you used for that? Would my excess MarineTex epoxy work in this application do you think?
also, I believe I saw you and your Sea Nymph on a YouTube video. Very impressive work!!!
