Another Chrysler 6Ohp with issues!

[StuC79]

Hi everybody, I have recently purchased a 15ft Pride runabout with a 60hp Chrysler motor which I saw running before I handed over the cash. The problem is now I can't get it started at all. It's using the Mag 2 ignition system which I can't quite get my head around but that seems to be ok as I have a spark at both plugs. Checked the compression and averages around 110 on both cylinders and after cleaning the carbs there is fuel in the float chambers.

I'm slightly suspicious of the timing as I have been playing with the throttle arm and I'm not 100% positive the fuel is getting into the cylinders.

I'm trying to keep this a cheap fix up project but want to do it properly so any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Frank Acampora]

ALL Chrysler engines can be a little fussy and some simply will not start at all if the correct starting procedure is not used. Pull out the silver button and advance the control handle as far as it will go.Prime the carbs by squeezing the fuel bulb until firm. push in the key and hold it in while cranking to choke the engine. It should fire and run fast. Lower the speed a little and let the engine warm up a bit before going to neutral.idle position. Push in the silver button to shift into gear.

The Magna-Power II was a really good idea, executed poorly. It failed regularly and Chrysler offered a retro-fit under warranty. Basically what it tried to do was use the positive current to charge one set of CD units and fire one coil (on the two cylinder engine) and use the negative current from the stator to charge a second CD unit and coil. If it fails on you, yhe whole ignition can be replaced with a Prestolite system Now, the two cylinder flywheel is different than the three and four and I don't know if your existing flywheel is compatible with the Prestolite system. SO, if you do need to replace, get a Prestolite two cylinder flywheel too. (like off a Force 50)

 

[StuC79]

Thanks Frank, I will keep trying later today (now Sunday Morning)

Is there a rough position guide the timing advance adjustment should be? As after a few attempts of cranking the motor I can't even hear a any difference. I.e. splutter, popping.

Oh and I don't think the choke is working when I push the key, might need a clean out as it moves up and down fine so I can manually set the choke but no response from any voltage!

 

[Frank Acampora]

First jump directly from the battery to the choke solenoid. If it pulls in then check and/or replace the ignition switch. If it does not activate replace the choke solenoid.

The two plastic blocks on the timing tower usually start out between 3/8 and 1/2 inch apart. However, this is really a very rough guesstimation and the only way to have any accuracy is with a timing light. At cranking speeds with the throttle in wide open position set timing to 28 degrees BTDC, Remove and ground the plugs so the engine will not start and use the top wire for the inductive pick-up on the light. There should be three marks on the flywheel. Center is 30 degrees, left is 32 and right is 28.

 

[StuC79]

Ok, so I have tested the choke and it was dead, luckily I have a spare motor with most parts left on it so that was a easy swap, now working like a dream with the key push!

The blocks at the top of the timing tower look about right to your description so I'm happy the timing is close enough to at create a "pop" at least when turning over but nothing! Once I get her running or even spluttering I will concentrate on the timing adjustment. Or do you think I need to hit this first?

Here's a few pics from this morning, just in cases there's something you guys can spot!

 

[StuC79]

No Title

Here they are......

 

[jerryjerry05]

IF??? It was running and you still have spark and have fuel.
Then it's possible the flywheel key has sheared.
On the flywheel? is there any marks?
These will be the timing marks.
Take out the top plug. Insert a screwdriver into the hole.
Turn flywheel by hand until the screwey is pushed out to the farthest point.
Then around the front above the carb is a timing mark.
It should be aligned with a hash mark on the flywheel.

 

[StuC79]

The flywheel has no markings apart from small cutouts approx 1inch long. These do look to be in line with the top of the piston travel. You can also feel the compression when turning by hand. No teeth are missing from the flywheel but it does have several holes drilled underneath at a certain point, I guess it could be to do with the balancing?

 

[StuC79]

Sorry Jerry, I misread your reply about the flywheel key, not teeth! If the key was sheared would I still get movement in the prop as It slips into gear and turns well.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Occam's Razor: The simplest solution to a problem is usually the correct solution.

Before diving too deeply into repairs, try this. Disconnect the fuel line. Now remove the spark plugs. Put about 1 teaspoon of fuel/oil mix in each plug hole. This will flood the engine. Now, put thje plugs back in and crank the engine. As it clears itself it should fire and run for a couple of seconds. If this happens, then the engine is not getting sufficient fuel to start and run. Now look at the carbs.

If it does not fire and/or run, then look at other causes.--including the ignition system.

 

[StuC79]

Thanks Frank, I will try this tonight. Do I keep the fuel line disconnected during the cranking?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Yes, otherwise the engine will get fuel and stay flooded.. Crank without choking the engine.

 

[StuC79]

Well, after dropping a little fuel in each cylinder and a crank of the ignition I get a couple of pops and a little smoke! So realising the fuel wasn't getting past the float bowls I stripped the carbs and clean them again. Once I get them back on and connected up I try again and boom, she starts first time! So happy to hear and smell the 2 stroke again!

But, there's always a but.. I haven't got any water coming back out! Worried I might overheat the motor i didn't run it longer than a minute and need to know if this model has a thermostat that opens once hot or should the water come out straight away?

Can anyone help?

 

[Frank Acampora]

That particular model has a thermostat near the bottom of the head. It can be difficult to access.

However, lack of water is usually a bad impeller. Drop the lower unit and check the water pump.If it is a one piece lower unit then you must remove one of the side plates at the lower engine mount to get at the shift linkage coupler. I forget if there is a hidden bolt inside the exhaust snout.

 

[StuC79]

So are you saying once the motor has warmed up the water will start pumping out the top exhaust?