another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

[thehermit]

I recently replaced my module to stop the buzzer that was sounding. In the process I ran down the test in the manual and tested all components which seem to be A OK. <br /><br />My question is more about posts on the oil pump. I have read many posts about a plastic dive gear. Wanting to put the whole buzzer thing to rest I removed the oil pump and the drive gear. It was metal. Is there any plastic gear that should be inspected for wear on the 1993 135HP?

 

[Laddies]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

It is around the crankshaft and drives the punp shaft

 

[thehermit]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

OK when I pulled the gear there was one little shaving of plastic (kind of like wear)....with a flashlight I really couldnt see the teeth but the pump is working as per the test in the manual so I am planning on giving my ne module a shot. Is there a better way to inspect this plastic gear? Like counting revs?

 

[wilde1j]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

You pulled the driven shaft, not the "gear". The oil alarm system counts driven shaft revolutions and compares that to tach pulses with a factor. If the driven shaft is not turning at the correct rotatioal velocity, you'll get an oil alarm (beep, beep, etc.). Low level in the engine mtd reservoir with also trigger an oil alarm.

 

[thehermit]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

Wild...I pulled the metal drive shaft. The gear is tough to see in there but it appears to have teeth ect even though I did find a small shaving of plastic (yikes). I Feel like my warning system is now intact thanks to the 200 dollar module. It sounds like if this fatal plastic gear goes Merc has a warning system to tell you...at which point I guess you abandon and go to premix or rebuild your motor. <br />Question: if the senson counts shaft revolutions it may be possible to set off the alarm if the worm gear is missing at least one tooth? ie a skipping drive shaft?

 

[KCLOST]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

Yep,<br /><br />Don't let this get any worse... IMO I'd remove the pump, and go to premix... We will help you through this...

 

[thehermit]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

KCLOST,<br />After finding out about the fatal plastic gear I am actually really pissed I spent 200 bucks on a module when I should have gone right to pre-mix. <br /><br />I think I am more paranoid now but the oil pump is still working and my new part has silenced that wicked buzzer for the time being. The second I hear that thing go off again I am going right to pre-mix. I think I need to run the boat (sometime this weekend) and report back on whenther it is ok or not...afterall there is not a whole lot of hours on this motor and it runs pissah! P.S. a buddy is getting his boat ready who had problems last year...I warned him about this issue and he is going right to pre-mix....I told him not to waste money on expensive parts. TH

 

[thehermit]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

OK BOYS I AM A BELIEVER! The plastic gear is shot! HOW DO I BYPASS THIS SYSTEM? This is where I am at: pluged the crankcase output with a bolt in the hose and some clamps. Taking off onboard tank oil supply and line to pump. Will bypass pump output and go rith to fuel pump with a fuel line. AND took my 200 buck new buzzer pack off and am going to beg my local merc dealer to give me a credit on that (well see how that goes). <br />My question is the temp horn no longer sounds when I turn the key to ON. Any way to fix that?? ANything else I am missing in trying to bypass OIL INJECTION??

 

[KCLOST]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

You can buy a plug that is specifically fitted to replace the pump and it uses the existing bolts to tighten it in place. Pretty inexpensive, it's plastic and seals it off well. You will need to plug the pressure line to the oil tank on the boat and also the lines obviously to and from the tank on the motor. You don't need to replace the oil line to the pump with a fuel line, just clamp the line or plug it.<br /> <br />As far as I know once you cut that wire from the pump to the alarm module, the test beeps that you hear just after turning the key on are gone. But that does not prevent the overheat switch from still working.. If you follow the overheat switch lead to the juction (a screw) just above the rectifier somewhere, you can use a wire to ground that lead off to the block with the key turned on, and the alarm will still sound just to make sure it works. <br />Don't forget to mix 50-1!!! One Pint of 2-stroke oil to every 6 gallons of gas.

 

[thehermit]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

KCLOST,<br />Tested the overheat swithces by grounding and they work. Any problem with leaving the pump in place??? I will see if the local dealer has the block off kit but if he dosnt is it a big deal to use the boat for a bit on MIX with the pump in place and unhooked??

 

[KCLOST]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

Shouldn't be a problem, Mine was that way for who knows how long before I bought it. <br /><br />Just to make things clear, that wire I talked about that went from the pump to the alarm module, where did it go exactly? It may actually go to the other side of the engine. No problem just asking..<br /> <br />And just to refresh my memory, the oil line that exits (or exited) the oil pump, where did it go? I don't remember the fuel pump being messed with?<br /><br />The reason I ask is that your engine is newer than mine, but should be set up the same...

 

[thehermit]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

KC,<br />The wires that went from the oil waring module (which is now removed) went to the sensors (lo oil and rotation) and then 3 wires went to the other side of the block. Purple (ignition power?) to terminal block brown and blue to terminal block and green to main switch? plate. <br />Am removing all oil lines/tanks/and sensors. plan to leave just the pump there with its drive gear in place as it was. A far as it is now oil in from onboard tank to pump and then to fuel line connection before fuel pump.<br /><br />I guess it is not the end of the world if you dont get a test beep on start up..I do have a temp gauge too.<br />TH

 

[KCLOST]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

And I messed up on the 50-1 ratio, it's 1 pint of oil to 6 gallons of gas....<br /><br />Just follow the directions...

 

[KCLOST]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

Ok you are good to go then! Mine still has the alarm module installed with everything basically disengaged, but you don't need yours anymore anyway.. <br /><br />That green wire was the wire that took measurements from the ignition system (switchbox( to use for comparison purposes against the oil pump rotation. Purple was ignition, and the blue brown was for the overheat switch test...<br /><br />Did you find the pressure line for the tank on your boat?

 

[thehermit]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

KC,<br />Plugged presure line with a short piece of tube and a bolt and a couple of clamps. I cant wait to put this whole buzzer thing to rest.<br />TH

 

[KCLOST]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

Your in good shape.. Just test and have fun..

 

[thehermit]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

Lots of fun was had this weekend as the motor is now void of the oil injection and running just fine on the pre-mix. Definately nice to take that "potential failure" out of the mix....thanks for the help.<br />TH<br />PS: my merc dealer actially had a stripped plastic worm gear behind the counter to show people! Yikes

 

[KCLOST]

Re: another oil buzzer question-93 135hp

Excellent...