Another prop question

Bullrider

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Nov 22, 2013
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93
I have read a lot throughout this forum to figure how to remove my stuck prop. So far I am being patient with PB Blaster,tension from a puller, vibration from a rivet gun,and heat.
Has any one used alkaline to etch the aluminum clean? I dont want to cut this prop off so I will keep soaking and pulling. If I use heat again what is a recomended temperature? Also has any one heated the hub, covered it with an insulation, then sprayed BioFreeze on the spline before pulling?
 

Starcraft5834

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Jun 2, 2013
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Re: Another prop question

how did you come into possession of a boat/prop what wont come off? OB/ I/O drive?
 

Bullrider

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Re: Another prop question

I just purchased this boat a few months ago for a deal Im happy with. The prop has some pits and minor dings so I want to replace it. 1995 Merc I/O 3.0 15.5" X 19" prop
I have decided to try a 14.5" X19" four blade.

I was told by a boater that ammonia is an alkaline and dissolves aluminum oxide.
 

Bondo

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Re: Another prop question

I just purchased this boat a few months ago for a deal Im happy with. The prop has some pits and minor dings so I want to replace it. 1995 Merc I/O 3.0 15.5" X 19" prop
I have decided to try a 14.5" X19" four blade.

I was told by a boater that ammonia is an alkaline and dissolves aluminum oxide.

Ayuh,.... Problem with that is, only the outer prop is aluminum,....

The prop shaft is an alloy steel, 'n the hub is probably bronze,...

Got a picture of what yer workin' with,..??

This is Why the prop oughta be pulled atleast once a year, 'n the prop shaft Greased,...

Ya might end up just Cuttin' the frozen prop off, sometimes there's just No savin' it,...
 
Last edited:

blackhawk180

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Jun 14, 2012
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Re: Another prop question

This is Why the prop oughta be pulled atleast once a year, 'n the prop shaft Greased,...

Very good advise as usual, Bondo. I make a point of doing just that whenever I replace my lower unit oil. Prop just slides right off every time.
 

Bullrider

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Nov 22, 2013
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Re: Another prop question

I am the type that will do that kind of maintenance. Since I have recently bought this boat I have been pulling apart many things and polishing and checking and painting and... The prop is one that is causing me to tap in on your experience. And I am totally grateful!
I have the tools and experience to cut it off. I was just hoping to save this prop for a back up. They are pretty inexpensive though.
unnamed.jpg

this was taken from my phone, not sure it will be much for ya
 

Bondo

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Re: Another prop question

I am the type that will do that kind of maintenance. Since I have recently bought this boat I have been pulling apart many things and polishing and checking and painting and... The prop is one that is causing me to tap in on your experience. And I am totally grateful!
I have the tools and experience to cut it off. I was just hoping to save this prop for a back up. They are pretty inexpensive though.
View attachment 223909

this was taken from my phone, not sure it will be much for ya

Ayuh,.... That appears to be 1 of the older pressed in hubs,...

Which means, you can beat on it, 'n soak it in whatever ya want, til it either pops off, or ya get sick of it, 'n cut it off,...

If ya got the time, google up Fluid Film,...
It's the craziest stuff for soakin' rust with, 'n it actually Works,...
It'll take awhile, but it does migrate through rust,...
 

MikDee

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Jun 6, 2007
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4,745
Re: Another prop question

Looking at the Pix now, maybe you have enough shaft sticking out to put a block of wood over it, and give it a sharp rap with a hammer as you pull up with pressure behind the prop, (even possibly using the puller). I don't mean to rap it real hard, but with about as much pressure with the rap, as you apply to the back, to sort of equalize it, not damage anything to do with the shaft. Sometimes, just a puller won't work, but adding a reasonable rap, will JAR an item loose. The shaft is steel, the prop sleeve is brass, so theoretically there's no bonding of metal. Sometimes brake disc's, or drums, need this type of persuasion.
 

Bullrider

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Nov 22, 2013
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Re: Another prop question

Thank you. Will keep on this. I thought of a stronger rivet gun for a good rattle.
 

Bondo

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Re: Another prop question

Thank you. Will keep on this. I thought of a stronger rivet gun for a good rattle.

Ayuh,... To go along with MikDee, Wackin' the end of the lead screw of the puller, at full tension, with a BFHammer, has been known to break free stubborn, stuck parts before,...

I've got a 7.5hp outboard like that,...
When I Gotta, I'll cut it off,...
 

Frank Acampora

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Jan 19, 2007
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12,004
Re: Another prop question

If it doesn't come free, that older prop has the flange in the front which means that you can -with enough pressure--pull the rubber hub out of the prop body. Then, you simply cut the rubber off and cut the bronze insert off the shaft. If you want to press it in yourself, a new hub costs about 30 bucks from HMS hubs and probably 45-60 to have it done by a prop shop.
 

Bullrider

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Re: Another prop question

I am an aircraft mechanic so I am very leary of whacking too hard. I dont know whats down there that will whack me back in the wallet. I do have a BF hammer and am skilled at the BFFI technique (Brute Force & F##K#n# Ignorance).
I just ordered a new prop so when it arrives and is the correct one I just might start cutting.
Does mine look like it has a rubber hub? I see only a metal face. A liitle green here.
Thank You All For The Input!!
 

Bullrider

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Nov 22, 2013
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Re: Another prop question

If it doesn't come free, that older prop has the flange in the front which means that you can -with enough pressure--pull the rubber hub out of the prop body. Then, you simply cut the rubber off and cut the bronze insert off the shaft. If you want to press it in yourself, a new hub costs about 30 bucks from HMS hubs and probably 45-60 to have it done by a prop shop.

I ordered a new hub with the new prop. Thank you.The old prop has pits and dings that I dont want to repair and rebalance.good thought though
 

Frank Acampora

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Jan 19, 2007
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Re: Another prop question

I like your terminology, but I don't think you are a very good aircraft mechanic: Anyone with skills knows it is not a BF hammer. It is a Fine Adjustment Tool. LOL
 

Bullrider

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Nov 22, 2013
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Re: Another prop question

Today I plan to do more whakin with the Fine Adjustment Tool (calibrated and certified of course) until I decide to deviate the props original design and anneal it to O condition and then disassemble to smaller parts with an abrasive whirly thingy.
Then beer
 

Maclin

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May 27, 2007
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Re: Another prop question

I had a chat friend on an automotive subject board that was an A&P mechanic. His tag was BiggerHammer :)
 

Scott Danforth

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Re: Another prop question

I would soak with kroil or PB Blaster. hit the hub with some heat while the puller has some tension. Then percussively persuade with the fine adjustment tool by smacking the end of the hub with a drift. if that doesnt work, beer, then proceed to dissect into smaller pieces
 

Bullrider

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Nov 22, 2013
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Re: Another prop question

Funny! I am about to go out and do it just that way. I am going to make a support to reduce the shock on the inner goomasakis and giblets. It has been soaked and heated and soaked and heated for several days now.

I belong to another forum that I measure the time to do a project in beers. This one has taken about three beers so far.
Tomorrow I am going to brew 5 gallons of African Ale!
 

Bullrider

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Nov 22, 2013
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Re: Another prop question

I got(cut) the Prop off! Thank you all for your great ideas and support! It took just under and hour but Im glad I took my time. The sawsall and an air chisel does wonders!! There is no way I would have pulled that thing off. It was fused well!
You folks are the best!!

View attachment 224104
 

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