Another Shift interrupter question

Augoose

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I have a '89 Mercruiser 4.3 with Alpha 1 outdrive. After reading the "shift interrupter" sticky as well as several other threads, I'm confident that this is where my problem is. To help me better understand the situation and properly troubleshoot, I have a couple of questions.

According to the sticky...."With an old, corroded lower shift cable, the cable will not allow the Y plate to release and the shift interrupt switch remains engaged. Since the shift interrupt switch remains engaged for a long period of time which keeps the ignition system grounded out, the engine dies completely."

Here are my symptoms:

I occasionally have issues starting the engine. When I gently rock the shifter forward and back without actually putting it into gear, I soon hit the sweet spot for the shift cable, thereby releasing the interrupter switch (I believe) and allowing spark = engine starts.

Quite often the engine will die going from forward to reverse. If I SLOWLY shift, sometimes the engine won't die, however usually it does. I can hear the normal and sudden drop in RPM's where it would normally go into gear, but my engine dies instead of keeps running. Additionally, when I go slowly into gear I can sometimes hear the engine die and then as the pistons are making their final cycles, I occasionally must hit the sweet spot in the shift cable which I assume, releases the interrupter switch, and the engine will sometime just barely jump back to like because the spark has returned at the last minute?

So with those symptoms, I think I'm definitely dealing with a SI issue correct? Moving on.....

I've examined the shift cable and visually it looks to be in great condition. While driving, the throttle handle seemingly moves without any friction or resistance that I can tell, or at least it's certainly comparable to my dad's '01 Stingray with Mercruiser.

Could it be that I'm still dealing with a bad cable that needs to be replaced or is there an adjustment that I can make to the cable itself? If so, what am I looking at as far as adjustment - how can I tell how to adjust it? Or, am I dealing with a failing interrupter switch? Does the switch require adjustment and are they prone to failure?

I've tried to find the answers through searching the threads as opposed to being just another newbie asking questions without research, but I can't seem to find my answer.

Thanks in advance for the help and sorry for being so long-winded!
 

tractoman

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

It very well could be the lower cable. Normally if you need to adjust your cable, you need to replace it and install it correctly. Have you downloaded your manuals yet. You should ba able to go through the cable installation section and answer some of your questions. Have you tried briskly going F-N-R instead of so slowly and are the results the same.
 

Bondo

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

Could it be that I'm still dealing with a bad cable that needs to be replaced

Ayuh,... You need a New Cable,... The switch is working, Perfectly, that's why the motor dies...
 

achris

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

.... I can hear the normal and sudden drop in RPM's where it would normally go into gear, but my engine dies instead of keeps running. ...

That is NOT normal. Going into gear the switch should not be activated, only when coming OUT of gear (both forward and reverse).

If the switch is cutting the engine when you are going INTO gear, then the lower shift cable is sticky and needs replacing. The usual reason for a bad shift cable is a bad upper shift shaft seal leaking. The shift cavity fills with water and works its way up the cable, making it sticky. See THIS service bulletin about replacing the seal with the new style.

Chris.......
 

Augoose

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

That is NOT normal. Going into gear the switch should not be activated, only when coming OUT of gear (both forward and reverse).

If the switch is cutting the engine when you are going INTO gear, then the lower shift cable is sticky and needs replacing. The usual reason for a bad shift cable is a bad upper shift shaft seal leaking. The shift cavity fills with water and works its way up the cable, making it sticky. See THIS service bulletin about replacing the seal with the new style.

Chris.......

Excellent - thanks for the info everyone. Just to clarify, the engine will stall most often while going INTO gear but it has also stalled while coming out as well, but not nearly as often. I also tried shifting quickly, but that didn't seem to help the stalling issue. I'll read the service message and see what I need to replace. Before I order parts, I just wanted to ensure I was focusing my attention on the right parts and whether the switch needed to be replaced or not- thought the switch may have been releasing too slowly (gummed up, corroded, etc) and keeping the spark supressed for too long?

Regarding the drop in rpm's, I was talking about the quick split second drop as indicated in the sticky here - All this only takes a split second, but if you listen, you can hear the engine drop a few rpm before running normal again when coming out of gear. I just didn't do a very good job at explaining it.

Sounds like a new cable, a shaft seal, and possibly a new switch? I'll read the bulletin for more info.

Thanks again!
 

Bondo

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

Just to clarify,

Ayuh,... You need a New Cable,.... Not the switch...
 

Don S

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

If the engine dies or hesitates, that means the switch is working. DO NOT mess with it, because if you break it, they are NLA.
 

Augoose

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

If the engine dies or hesitates, that means the switch is working. DO NOT mess with it, because if you break it, they are NLA.

Got it, thanks all. After downloading and reading the service bulletin and factory manuals for my outboard and then reading several posts with all the steps, I think it will be best to take it to someone. Its one thing to tear into a car in your own garage where all of your tools are close by, but having to work on the boat solely at the boat yard isn't going to cut it (my Homeowner's Association won't allow boats on the property).

I called around to a few places today and the shop I felt most comfortable with and the one with the most recommendations behind it charges $85 per hour and gave an estimate of 5 hours of work, plus parts. This quote included a worst case scenario of having to replace bellows, gimbal bearing, and a few other items that I didn't have time to write down, but they are all associated with the removal process to get to the lower shift cable.

My questions:
1) What is the consensus on the $85 / hour labor rate? I know each area of the US is different, but I've heard $65 - $95, so this seems reasonable.

2) What items should be replaced while the shift cable is being replaced? If a tech is down there working, what makes sense to replace?

3) Along the same lines, what should I be weary of replacing? The boat runs like a charm (other than shifting) and doesn't take on a drop of water that I can see.

Any other advice or words of caution?

Thanks!
I read
 

achris

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

...(my Homeowner's Association won't allow boats on the property)....

How do they get away with that? In Australia they would be told to take a long walk off a short pier, or words to that effect, and not so polite. It's your property, what right do they have to tell you what you can and can't have there?

I am constantly being bashed about Australia not being a free country (because we don't want guns), yet in the US you can't even have a boat at home? Where's the freedom in that!!!???

Don't what to get into an(other) 'discussion' on guns here.... Let's keep to the point and civil.... Thanks..

Chris........
 

Augoose

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

How do they get away with that? In Australia they would be told to take a long walk off a short pier, or words to that effect, and not so polite. It's your property, what right do they have to tell you what you can and can't have there?


The way they see it is that you "agree" to the terms prior to purchasing a house in the subdivision, thereby you have to play by their rules. Some of the rules are nice because it keeps the subdivision looking clean and to a standard - that way when it comes time to sell, you don't have to worry about an odd ball neighbor ruining your property value. That's the life of subdivisions though and they won't allow boats in the driveway or in the backyard.

So....that leaves me to only work at it at the boat yard or in the water. Not being able to have a bench, vice, welder, water hose, etc is really going to gum up being able to do my own work so I'll need to take it to someone.
 

achris

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

The way they see it is that you "agree" to the terms prior to purchasing a house in the subdivision, thereby you have to play by their rules. Some of the rules are nice because it keeps the subdivision looking clean and to a standard - that way when it comes time to sell, you don't have to worry about an odd ball neighbor ruining your property value. That's the life of subdivisions though and they won't allow boats in the driveway or in the backyard.

They tried that a few years ago in Perth and they sold exactly 0 blocks. After a couple of weeks they dropped all the conditions and the blocks sold as normal...

.... they won't allow boats .... in the backyard.....

You are kidding aren't you.... Do they require you to have 2.4 children as well? And what about if you want to repaint the inside walls of the house? Do you need to consult them for that too... After all, it wouldn't do property values any good to have a house in the street with a purple walled room in it....

If the boat fits in the backyard, exercise your right to freedom and tell them to 'take a hike'.... (or be sneaky and bring it in under the cover of darkness... Do the job overnight and sneak it out again before dawn.):rolleyes:

Chris.......
 

Augoose

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

(or be sneaky and bring it in under the cover of darkness... Do the job overnight and sneak it out again before dawn.)

Yeah....if I could do that in one night I wouldn't be taking it to anyone!!!:eek:

I started reading all the steps last night and after about the fourth or fifth line, I was totally lost. I'm just not familiar enough with even the terminology at this point to figure out what's what, and the "be sure you don't do this, or else" statements scared the heck out of me. I'd rather swallow the $600 its going to take to have a professional do it and get it back out on the water.

Oh, and the HOA got onto me 1 week after moving in about my 4 year old's bike being on the front porch. Some things I'll swallow but not that one - I told them to take a hike and show me in the bylaws where I was breaking any rules. They never mentioned it again, but a 20' ski boat in the backyard would bring the heat again for sure.

If I could find someone in my area that has done it before, I'd gladly pay them to come to the house and we'd do it together so I could learn!
 

achris

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

$600.... :eek::eek::eek: You're kidding me again aren't you....

I did that job just recently for $200... Including parts...
 

bhammer

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

I am constantly being bashed about Australia not being a free country (because we don't want guns), yet in the US you can't even have a boat at home? Where's the freedom in that!!!???

And who in the world told you that the US was a free country? :):D I suppose you could say that we are more free than some other countries....:cool:
 

achris

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

And who in the world told you that the US was a free country? :):D I suppose you could say that we are more free than some other countries....:cool:

Yeah, I have 2 boats, and 2 cars and often have friends boats here for work. My neighbour over the road has a boat, a work trailer with his cement mixer and tools on it, and 11 cars!!! Nobody's complains about them, and I would be right over there with him telling them to 'rack off' if they tried...

A kid's bike on the front porch!!! You really are kidding me now, I hope.

Who are these HOAs anyway? Are they a government body? Or a local council? What? and what right of law do they have? Maybe I should take this to DC and not here?

Chris......
 

bhammer

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

Here is a good link to what an HOA is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homeowner_association In a nuttshell, it is not a government body but one elected by the homwowners. You have a set of bylaws and you must follow them. Some are more restrictive than others. The one I live in does a good job keeping people fom parking campers in their front yards and yards and bushes mowed. Here is link to my HOA and you can read the bylaws if you like. http://parkwoodhill.com/hoa_policies.htm
 

Augoose

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

What is the position of the shift interrupt switch when it is "engaged"? Is the roller centered? Where does it go when it grounds out and cuts the spark?

Also, how much resistance does a brand new cable have? I disconnected the engine end of my lower shift cable and when I tried to work the cable back and forth inside while holding the outer sheath, it moved but it did have some resistance. Two fingers pinched probably wouldn't be enough to push and pull it back and forth but three would. I hope that helps explain the amount of friction I'm facing.

Now the issue I have is the boat won't start at all and my roller switch is centered.
 

achris

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

What is the position of the shift interrupt switch when it is "engaged"? Is the roller centered? Where does it go when it grounds out and cuts the spark?

Because the switch must be activated when coming out of either gear the moving plate will close the switch when moved in either direction. There is a specific setup procedure for the switch. The correct 'resting' position for the switch is with the roller in the centre.

Augoose said:
Also, how much resistance does a brand new cable have?

Almost nothing.

Augoose said:
I disconnected the engine end of my lower shift cable and when I tried to work the cable back and forth inside while holding the outer sheath, it moved but it did have some resistance. Two fingers pinched probably wouldn't be enough to push and pull it back and forth but three would. I hope that helps explain the amount of friction I'm facing.

Is that with the leg still on?

Augoose said:
Now the issue I have is the boat won't start at all and my roller switch is centered.

When you say 'Won't start at all', what exactly do you mean? Is it cranking and not firing or not even cranking?

If it's cranking and if the switch is in the centred position and the engine won't fire, check for spark. If you have no spark, then disconnect either of the white wires coming from the switch (there are 2 bullet connectors about 4" from the switch). See if you now have spark. If you do, then check the switch adjustment.

Chris.......
 

Augoose

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

Thanks for the help Chris. I ended up pulling the cable completely out, measuring the length, then re-installing. The boat fires up normally now, so the cable must have been incorrectly set to the wrong length.

Regarding the friction, I did still have the lower unit end of the cable connected, so I was fighting the resistance of the gearing, however I think that the cable is corroded somewhere as I certainly don't have a silky smooth moving cable.

Thanks for the clarity on the switch. Can you explain the movement of the switch as you go from forward to neutral and then reverse? Does the roller ride up on each side of the "Y" depending on whether you are in forward or reverse and stay there for the entire time the boat is in gear, or does it go up one of the ends of the "Y" for a second and then immediately come back to center after the drive gets into gear?

Thanks again!
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: Another Shift interrupter question

The switch should ONLY WORK coming OUT of gear.If it activates going into gear you need a lower cable .
 
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