bshellrude
Seaman
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2004
- Messages
- 66
91 'rude 70HP
Trying to sell it, been sitting for a few years (bought new boat) waiting to get upholstry done and get "ship shape" for sale. Always had a problem with mid-high speed miss untill it was completely warmed up.
Fired it up this season, first time it fired then died and wouldn't restart. Assumed flooded.
Couple days later, started up no problem, sounded like it was missing on one cylinder, assumed it was just "clearing its throat" and it did clear up after a bit.
Went to show the boat the other day, started, then died, and wouldn't restart again... thought flooded, but checked spark and none.
So, started running tests. Always assumed the original problem mentioned above with the high-speed miss till warm was a stator issue given the tach would die out after that happened. Started running tests on the stator for resistance, and found I was getting 0... which didn't seem right. It was really odd... checked again today after pulling the flywheel off, and found I was getting 390ohms (even though the manual states it should be 550 +/- 50 I chalk the wonky reading up to cheap multimeter) accross both of the "run" coils, but only about 2.3ohms on the "charge"/rectifier coil outputs. Also noticed there was a couple of cracks on the stator... I should note there is a very small amount of black discharge under the yellow wires on the aft side of the engine. So, thinking I'd conceeded to the fact the stator needed to be replaced I removed it...
Of course after doing so, I rethought the problem and thought while I'm at it I should check the power pack too (following the CDI troubleshooting guide)... So start checking resistance on it only to find that I have continuity between #1 and #3 cyl but none at the #2 output. Another thing that bugged me was that ohms on #1 were 90 and #3 were 158ish... So, I pull the pack to poke around. All of a sudden #2 starts giving me a reading, which is about 130. So from #1 to #3 it progressively changes from 90ohms to 130 to 160... seems to me these should all be the same. Then in addition, I find that if I push on the gel in the back I can get #2 readings to cut out and back in again... (maybe it's a break in the wire, it's hard to tell at this point, definitely harder to do now that it's cooled off inside the house)
So I guess my question is... given all this information. Do I replace both? Do I start with the power pack? Do I try replacing the one wire (green) that's giving me issues and see if the intermittent loss of continuuity goes away? CDI troubleshooting guide says the power pack resistance tests should all ready approximately the same... 90/130/160 aren't "approximately" the same to me... ?? But then again, the ohms charge coils are way low too? and the hairline cracks/oozing black are worrisome too...
It's an expensive prospect to just do both... but I need to get this thing fixed and sold, it's just collecting dust right now. Of course I don't want to sell it in a half-as*ed state either...
Any and all comments/input/suggestions are very much welcome
Thanks and cheers!
Trying to sell it, been sitting for a few years (bought new boat) waiting to get upholstry done and get "ship shape" for sale. Always had a problem with mid-high speed miss untill it was completely warmed up.
Fired it up this season, first time it fired then died and wouldn't restart. Assumed flooded.
Couple days later, started up no problem, sounded like it was missing on one cylinder, assumed it was just "clearing its throat" and it did clear up after a bit.
Went to show the boat the other day, started, then died, and wouldn't restart again... thought flooded, but checked spark and none.
So, started running tests. Always assumed the original problem mentioned above with the high-speed miss till warm was a stator issue given the tach would die out after that happened. Started running tests on the stator for resistance, and found I was getting 0... which didn't seem right. It was really odd... checked again today after pulling the flywheel off, and found I was getting 390ohms (even though the manual states it should be 550 +/- 50 I chalk the wonky reading up to cheap multimeter) accross both of the "run" coils, but only about 2.3ohms on the "charge"/rectifier coil outputs. Also noticed there was a couple of cracks on the stator... I should note there is a very small amount of black discharge under the yellow wires on the aft side of the engine. So, thinking I'd conceeded to the fact the stator needed to be replaced I removed it...
Of course after doing so, I rethought the problem and thought while I'm at it I should check the power pack too (following the CDI troubleshooting guide)... So start checking resistance on it only to find that I have continuity between #1 and #3 cyl but none at the #2 output. Another thing that bugged me was that ohms on #1 were 90 and #3 were 158ish... So, I pull the pack to poke around. All of a sudden #2 starts giving me a reading, which is about 130. So from #1 to #3 it progressively changes from 90ohms to 130 to 160... seems to me these should all be the same. Then in addition, I find that if I push on the gel in the back I can get #2 readings to cut out and back in again... (maybe it's a break in the wire, it's hard to tell at this point, definitely harder to do now that it's cooled off inside the house)
So I guess my question is... given all this information. Do I replace both? Do I start with the power pack? Do I try replacing the one wire (green) that's giving me issues and see if the intermittent loss of continuuity goes away? CDI troubleshooting guide says the power pack resistance tests should all ready approximately the same... 90/130/160 aren't "approximately" the same to me... ?? But then again, the ohms charge coils are way low too? and the hairline cracks/oozing black are worrisome too...
It's an expensive prospect to just do both... but I need to get this thing fixed and sold, it's just collecting dust right now. Of course I don't want to sell it in a half-as*ed state either...
Any and all comments/input/suggestions are very much welcome
Thanks and cheers!