any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric shif

[glastron brian]

I've got a 68 Evinrude 55hp with a stuck tranny. I drained the old lube, added the proper lube and ran it to get the prop gear loose (hoping that would fix it). We'll, it ran for about a minute (hooked up to a garden hose),but no water came out of the back (in fact, i'm not sure where the water is supposed to come out) and the head got so hot I could barely touch it. Also smoke came out of two holes in the back for a few minutes after shutoff. <br /><br />If i have to replace the water pump, is it easy or will i seriously mess things up. I have a manual and it looks like the pump is above the gears, so I can just pull the pump out and not mess with anything else...right? Also, would I have to drain the LU oil before I remove the LU. Anything involing the pump/impeller that could be affecting my tranny. I'm stuck in forward...Yes, it's an electric shift. I've read everyting on this board about it and couldn't find anything on this exact topic.<br /><br />thanks gang, you've already helped me replace the floor, and paint her, I just need a bit more guidance and maybe I'll get to enjoy her before summers over.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

Do a "Search" for Hydro Electric.

 

[BJM]

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

I had a '69 55 hp Johnson and a '66 80 hp Johnson both with the electric shift which I assume are the same in your outboard. Its hard to get the things stuck in a gear. There is an electric coil at each end of the bottom unit that attracts a plate when its charged. When the plate skids on the magnetic it causes a spring to wrap up around a shaft which grabs one gear or the other depending on which coil is energized. It sounds like the spring decided not to unwrap for some reason. They also break under abuse, perhaps yours broke and jammed. Those springs are expensive. You will have to open it up to see. It wasn't hard to work on.<br /><br />The water pump however must be fragged totally. On mine 3 of the fingers were gone and the head off another had attached itself to another one. My engine was overheating. The water pump was pretty easy to change on those engines. On the 80 at least the water tube going from the pump up to the engine was the hardest thing to coax together when putting the lower unit back on. The exhaust comes out of what looks like a stubby tailpipe and spits water out of the same hole. When running its easy to check temperature by putting your hand in the spray coming out, it should be almost too hot to keep your hand there. No water coming out, your pump is dead.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

BMJ.... No offense intended here. The 1969 55 hp Johnson has a "Hydro Electric Shift" mechanism whereas the lower unit is slammed into forward gear by a spring loaded clutch dog if no voltage is applied, but the 1966 80 hp Johnson has a "Electromatic Shift" mechanism whereas the lower unit is in neutral (the one you explained) when no voltage is applied.<br /><br />Brian has the "Hydro Electric Shift" unit with the set up as follows.<br /><br />(Hydro Electric Shift)<br /><br />The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog.<br /><br />The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.<br /> <br />You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube) <br /><br />In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire. <br />In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one. <br />In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear) <br /><br />To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed. <br /><br />This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).<br /> <br />With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

 

[BJM]

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

No offense taken. I had only ever taken the '66 apart. I knew the '69 was different in its wiring and I never followed through to figure out why.<br /><br />I had always heard that in Ontario back in the day the provincial police boats were forever being stranded when the wiring went bad. Perhaps the design change allowed the power to fail in the lower unit, yet allowed you to get home again.

 

[glastron brian]

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

Re: any correlation between stuck gears and water pump problems of OMC electric

thanks for the info. I've read everything on this board about the hydro-electric shift, but haven't read a clear description of what actually accurs in the lower unit until now. thanks.<br /><br />So I guess I change out the water pump. I have electricity all the way to the where the blue/green wires connect from the controls to the lower unit. I also have resistance in the wires running down to the solenoid. Therefore I think the problem may be gummed up gears. Without a proper cooling system, i can't run the engine, therefore I guess I'll change out the water pump first and then see if I can run the engine and see if some Dextron III will clean the LU and allow proper shifting.<br /><br />thanks again.