I have a 1997 5.7L 350ci Mercruiser Bravo II XL with closed cooling. I want to install a flush valve other than down in the bilge. There is no shut off valve.
Only have to flush heat exchanger and risers ? Thanks for any help.
+1 agree and will add, it can be doe but takes some stuff. Fun Times put some stuff together in the 4th post of the link below which should fill in the gaps. There is a good thread from the searay site in his link and the main point is mentioned in the last post.
Perko flush kit number 0457DP7 is an option for you to consider for the engine. But one thing it doesn't do is it don't back flow to the stern drive which with how the inlet water passage at the transom assembly tends to corrode, not so sure I'd want to use it.... Are you planning/wanting to install a garden hose connector to the outside transom area of the boat for easy access? Being a bravo drive, you'd need the 1 1/4 inch hose. http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/underwater_hardware/product/62/ which is available here at iboats, http://www.iboats.com/1-1-4-Flush-P...5895223--session_id.001392416--view_id.167238
Thanks for the reply's
I was thinking of putting a" T" in the line between the raw water pump discharge and the oil cooler . Wouldn't that flush out the heat exchanger and the risers. ? Would it push back past the raw water pump ? Remember the engine is closed cooling.
Is this a good idea ?
Thanks.
Sounds like you have an Alpha drive and the impeller is in the drive, so you cannot start the motor to flush the drive with a water hose on a Tee. Others need to confirm my thought. but I'm thinking with the motor off and a hose connected to the Tee, you should be able to push water through. Issue I see is how much pressure you can use against the pump housing :noidea:
It is a 1997Bravo II ,and it is closed cooling , I would like to flush the raw water side of the heat exchanger and the risers.
Should I just bite the bullet and buy the Mercruiser flush valve ?
Thanks again.