Anyone willing to waste some time

[Amatuer Hour]

That sure looks like a plain ol' chevy starter.
It looks like it lacks the gasket on the solenoid and the rubber grommet on the lead going into the starter is just the standard grommet.
Unless that isnt a picture of what they plan to send you.

The first or second starter?

Ayuh,.... I've been replacin' starters with the permanent magnet starters for Years now,.....
The Marine versions still have the little ssteel plate 'tween the motor, 'n bendix drive,.....
Less that 1/2 the weight/ bulk of the ole style pictured,....

The gear reduction drive starters, are marine just by their basic separated design,....
Whole different, expensive breed though,....

Merc also came out with new starter bolts, that take a 1/2" socket, rather than the usual 9/16" socket for easier clearance,.......
Wish I had the part numbers, but don't,....

looks like the starter has been replaced before, the bolts I pulled out were 1/2''

So both starters are not recommended to use due to the uncovered design of the fielding wire?

The part number on my old starter is 9000763 delco remy
EDIT: I must be blind, I thought mine was staggered, it is a 'straight across' mounting pattern.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

No Title

The first picture.
The pic I have is from Iboats. You can see the gasket and silicone on the one from Iboats.
I personally would spend the extra and get the gear reduction starter.
They are lighter, smaller and I tend to think more reliable imo.

 

[JaCrispy]

Your main wiring harness may have bulk connectors, look under the helm and near the engine. Sometimes get bad connections there. For your trim, if only the trailer switch works then either the trim limit switch is bad or theres a bad connection from the switch on the shifter to the trim limit switch on the drive. The trim-up wire is the purple-white wire, the trailer button is the blue-white wire. You can disconnect the two wires from the trim limit switch and connect them together then try the trim-up button. If the drive goes up the wiring is good but the trim limit switch on the drive is bad.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jacksparrow1956/2012-04-26_163829_mercru_t-n-t_86.jpg

 

[Amatuer Hour]

^ Thank you that was really helpful! The diagram should make it pretty easy


I just got paid so I'm going to grab a new starter and some muffs and see what happens I imagine there will be at least a couple more issues before it'll run- and quite a long list before it can be on the water.

 

[Amatuer Hour]

Alright I have the new starter looks like the deck for the bolts are a little different. The old seems to be a little thicker than the new and it feels like the bolts are bottoming out while the starter still has about 1/8th of an inch before meeting the engine block deck.

Not sure if washers/spacers under the bolt head is safe, or maybe it's just a sign of it being the wrong starter/bolts or some blockage in the threads makes it feel like it bottoms out etc.

 

[Rick Stephens]

careful, you can break the block tightening a too long bolt.

 

[Bondo]

Not sure if washers/spacers under the bolt head is safe, or maybe it's just a sign of it being the wrong starter/bolts or some blockage in the threads makes it feel like it bottoms out etc.

Ayuh,..... Just went through this on 2 different motors,....

I used a 3/8" flat, 'n a lock washer to tighten things up,....

Ran a tap into the 1st one, 'n didn't help a thing,... the washers did the trick,...

 

[Amatuer Hour]

Thank you Rick and Bondo, I was definetly afraid of breaking a bolt of cracking something once the bolts went from spinning really easily to needing both hands when the starter stall had slack.


But while I was down there messing with the starter it was obvious the tank still has fuel in it- so the boat was running or on the water sometime after the receipt in the glove box stating it had all the fuel drained for winterization.



The owner's widow is still my neighbour, she said the boat was running great last it was used- they only stopped using it because the owner had to many health concerns to keep boating. The floor gave out sometime after it was used last from sitting with the top off for so long. (although I'm sure it was starting to go soft before then.)

 

[Amatuer Hour]

The wasps had claimed the boat as their headquarters I had to deal with 5 nests so far- could still be more.

The new starter with some spacers worked out well. The engine cranked over and sounds really healthy but wouldn't fire up. I opened the intake and could see 2 jets of fuel spraying as I turned the throttle. So It should have fuel and air the last of the equation spark seems to be missing I couldn't see an arc when I pulled a plug wire and set it against the engine block. After sitting that long the distributor is probably corroded is there any other parts to the ignition system that are common problems?

I'm also wondering if it is a safety feature being triggered, since I have the boat disassembled I have to hold the 'run' switch that is no longer connected to the throttle lever.

I even recorded a little video of the junked out boat, maybe a well trained ear can decipher it

[video]http://s89.photobucket.com/user/TokoDragon/media/Bayliner/EDF1B4D9-8EBC-4BF2-BEFB-A791289467E3_zpsxlfuk1ef.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0[/video]

 

[Rick Stephens]

Old gas in it? If so, stop cranking. Pump it out, clean and replace filters and rebuild the carb. Old wet nasty fuel is just a deterrent to getting this running.

 

[Amatuer Hour]

I pumped out about 7 gallons of stale fuel

 

[Bondo]

The engine cranked over and sounds really healthy but wouldn't fire up. I opened the intake and could see 2 jets of fuel spraying as I turned the throttle. So It should have fuel and air,


I pumped out about 7 gallons of stale fuel

Ayuh,.... Ya also pumped it though out the entire fuel delivery system, fuel pump, carb, the whole shebang,....

 

[Amatuer Hour]

I opened the distributor and I've seen worse but probably needs to be changed and it's only around $25 bucks for new cap and rotor.

But looks like a points setup I've never done anything with points. I'm not getting spark at the coil, but from what I've researched bad points will cause no-spark at the coil.

Also saw they sell distributors that eliminate the points but they cost about the same as this boat. Although I did find this 'conversion kit' but it doesn't have very many details as to what distributor/engine or year that it will work with.

https://jet.com/product/product/eb58aa0afeb24b4d8e01424c7306128c?jcmp=pla:ggl:vehi cles_parts_a1:vehicles_parts_vehicle_parts_accesso ries_watercraft_parts_accessories_a1_other:na:na:n a:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=a15 febb3-82fb-4262-8c0b-96e2ac776f13&kpid=eb58aa0afeb24b4d8e01424c 7306 128c&gclid=CNCos-Ti48cCFYqPfgod7tcFQQ


The other project is doing well! Some abuse off-road and probably 5000 miles of daily driving. Now that is has the brake setup from a chevy 2500 it stops the boat much better than it did stock.

 

[Bondo]

But looks like a points setup I've never done anything with points. I'm not getting spark at the coil, but from what I've researched bad points will cause no-spark at the coil.

Ayuh,...... Read This,.... 'n This,...... found in Don'S Adults Only section,.....

 

[Amatuer Hour]

^ That power point couldn't make things any easier! Thank you! The step by step in the other thread should get the job done and we'll see if it fires up after I get the last of the old fuel out.