are these piston and rings still good?

[so]

just took them off for a thorough restoration. compression was good, 115. It was seized up a while back and I was able to free it.

flywheel/crankshaft is still kind of hard to turn even with the piston out, any idea?

 

[racerone]

The ring gap looks too big.-----But fit it in the bore and post the actual gap number.----Like water sat in the engine and the crankshaft / bearings are damaged.

 

[so]

fit it in the bore and post the actual gap number..

sorry, can you elaborate on what I need to do. did you mean measure the bore and the piston? first time working on an engine.

 

[pete j]

I think he means the gap in the rings will be alot smaller when its in the cylinder. So its hard to tell if rings are good with them out of the cylinder

 

[Lightwin 3]

Take the rings off of the piston, insert them in the bore, then measure the gap.

I agree, the gap looks a little wide.

 

[so]

Take the rings off of the piston, insert them in the bore, then measure the gap.

I agree, the gap looks a little wide.

I had to squeeze the rings to get them back in the bore, which means there's no gap between ring and bore.
I watched this ,https://youtu.be/UMEXjofqbdM?t=297 and was under the impression that it should not have any gap.

 

[jbuote]

They're not asking about a gap between the ring and the bore...
IF I'm not mistaken, they want you to insert the ring into the bore, then measure the gap between the 2 red arrows in the following pic.. . The ring end gap...

 

[jimmbo]

When you place the ring in the cylinder, It needs to be perpendicular to the bore and located the area of the bore where the piston ring travels but at the point of the least amount of wear of the cylinder wall(the walls don't wear evenly, or even like a taper that occurs on a four stroke).

 

[so]

ahhh, my bad,
it's 2.07mm or 5/64 inch

 

[Scott Danforth]

way too large.

the piston has both scuffing and corrosion

if your rebuilding, your boring and honing the block a getting new pistons and rings anyway.

 

[Chinewalker]

No, you need the gap between the ends of the rings, not the notches for the alignment pin. You need a feeler gauge as the calipers you've got won't do it.

ahhh, my bad,
it's 2.07mm or 5/64 inch

 

[racerone]

Ring gap looks acceptable.--------Your biggest problem is the possibility of the crankshaft bearings being bad.----Then the search for a new / used crankshaft starts.-----Take the rest of the motor apart and worry about rings later.

 

[so]

Ring gap looks acceptable.--------Your biggest problem is the possibility of the crankshaft bearings being bad.----Then the search for a new / used crankshaft starts.-----Take the rest of the motor apart and worry about rings later.

trying to remove bearing housing(bottom piece) from the crankcase, it's really stuck, tried hammering a flat screwdriver in there, nicked it a little. any other better way?

 

[so]

trying to remove bearing housing(bottom piece) from the crankcase, it's really stuck, tried hammering a flat screwdriver in there, nicked it a little. any other better way?

nvm, pried it out.

 

[racerone]

With the crankshaft out , any pictures of bearing surfaces on the crankshaft ?

 

[so]

With the crankshaft out , any pictures of bearing surfaces on the crankshaft ?

i didnt take out the needles yet fearing I'd have a hard time putting them back, but could do so if needed.
do they look ok? the shaft turned freely once I removed the bottom piece (bearing housing, #8 in diagram http://www.*****************/parts/jo...6amp%3B+Piston)

 

[so]

With the crankshaft out , any pictures of bearing surfaces on the crankshaft ?

after I removed the bearing housing and was able to turn the crankshaft freely, it felt like the crankshaft is rubbing against the case though(see yellow arrows), maybe because no piston to hold it in place?