Back into the 1989 85hp rebuild

lgaytan

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
159
So there's another thread were I've been working on the rebuild of this motor, it all started with low compression I just changed pistons that were damaged and rings and honed the cylinders, got it back to 110, 120, 120 psi with only this. In the first try I didn't got any power I could idle and low revs but nothing above 1500 RPMs, I knew I had a bad exhaust seal so I decided to tear the motor again and change that seal, today after two years of didn't wanted to know nothing about this I finally put it together back again, it idles strong, same compression so everything was ok until... After the compression test and reinstalling the spark plugs the second spark plugs threads stripped out!!! I don't understand this so now I believe the cylinder head is gone!
Here comes the question, the spark plugs are attached only to the head right so only by changing that I should be ok it is part number F630518? The diagram in Marine engine confuses me a little bit.
And also Jerry is you see this I still have issues with the stater fluid test, that is getting me crazy part of this second tear down was too change seals in the intake ports but that didn't help, any advise is well received.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,177
Starting fluid test: Can of SF, start motor and run at idle or just above idle.
Then spray SF around the intake side of the motor. Motors divided into intake side and exhaust side. The intake side is(looking at the carbs) the left side of the motor and under the ignition equipment. The packs and coils and the intake manifold and under the flywheel is where you spray.
If spraying the SF makes the motor run ANY different(cough, stutter, stall) then it's sucking air and the gasket/s need replacing.
Under the ignition is the 4 port covers( the 3rd one runs the fuel pump).
The factory gaskets weren't the best and 1 tiny cough, backfire, sneeze can blow out a gasket, maybe 2 ???
Good luck with your test.
If needed?? send a PM and we can exchange numbers.
 

lgaytan

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
159
Put a helicoil in the plug hole.----And cylinder head does NOT need to come off.
I thought about that, but then found a head at $30 USD, I just ordered that one seller claims it's flat, mine already passed an over heating years ago so I think maybe the change will also help.
 

lgaytan

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
159
Starting fluid test: Can of SF, start motor and run at idle or just above idle.
Then spray SF around the intake side of the motor. Motors divided into intake side and exhaust side. The intake side is(looking at the carbs) the left side of the motor and under the ignition equipment. The packs and coils and the intake manifold and under the flywheel is where you spray.
If spraying the SF makes the motor run ANY different(cough, stutter, stall) then it's sucking air and the gasket/s need replacing.
Under the ignition is the 4 port covers( the 3rd one runs the fuel pump).
The factory gaskets weren't the best and 1 tiny cough, backfire, sneeze can blow out a gasket, maybe 2 ???
Good luck with your test.
If needed?? send a PM and we can exchange numbers.
Will try in a few weeks when the new head arrives, I already order it. I'll send you the PM if in trouble,thanks for the offer.
 
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