Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

[rbthntr64]

Back on this project ;o) Guys, I am having issues. This is a RSB Fiberglass forms Fishmaster, I think it was later called a Glassmaster FishMaster. It has the Mercruiser I/O MCM 120. I can not get the starter to crank from key, but will jump at solenoid. Not getting any spark. Anyone have experience with these Mercruiser's? Any possibility of a wiring schematic out there? Also not getting trim indication on the gauge. An help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you all for the help thus far!

 

[rbthntr64]

Pic of the nameplate;

 

[achris]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

Give me the year (of the engine) and I'll post a link to the manual...

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

The boat is a 1977. Here is the dataplate off the engine;

Thank you!

 

[achris]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B1TAvwZ3TjhfOTI5OTMyZTMtNDNkZi00MDAyLWE5MTYtMTI5N2MyNDM3NjZm

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

Thanks a Million! I will post a video once I get her on the water. You Rock!

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

I see your old post on this boat was back in 2008. If the boat has not been used in a long time the first place to start tracing your "no spark" situation is your points. They are probably corroded and need to be replaced. There are other things to check of course... but the points are easy and cheap and are a regular maintenance item anyway - along with a full tune up.

(This doesn't help your starter problem - just the "no spark" issue). Don S has posted a check list for the situation. See the sticks at the top of the page.

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

Sorted the "no Rotation" issue. The neutral safety switch disc in the controller was 180 out. Haven't re-addressed the no spark issue yet. I suspect it may be a bad condensor because the lead was pinched under the cap. Also discovered another SNAFU. When I changed out the impeller in 2008, I forgot to put the anode fin bolt in when I put the lower unit back up. Thinking about just opening up the hole on the top so I don't have to split the case again. Anyone in the know think this may be an issue?

 

[achris]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

... Thinking about just opening up the hole on the top so I don't have to split the case again. Anyone in the know think this may be an issue?

I did that on a drive I had many years ago. Doesn't cause any problems, but it is tacky.... If it were me now, I'd split the drive again and put the bolt in.

Chris..

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

I did that on a drive I had many years ago. Doesn't cause any problems, but it is tacky.... If it were me now, I'd split the drive again and put the bolt in.
Chris..

Yes, that was what I was thinking also. Just no local source for seals if something gets messed up.

 

[achris]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

There is only one seal, the quad ring between the halves, and that is so reusable...

 

[04fxdwgi]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

I did that on a drive I had many years ago. Doesn't cause any problems, but it is tacky.... If it were me now, I'd split the drive again and put the bolt in.

Chris..

HAHAHA... I did that on a pre-alpha many years ago too, but that cavity got a boot load of crap in it, since there was no plastic cap on the hole after the "mod". These days, I would just drain the drive oil, seperate the halves and do it right, if I forgot the bolt gain. The bolt will pass through the factory hole on my Bravo. The old ones were Allen heads and new ones are hex heads.

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

Went for the down and dirty, and put a nice chrome pipe thread cap in the hole after adding some grease to prevent corrosion. Waiting on a MV8500 pump to make sure all the seals are good before servicing up for the Start-up after long term storage.

 

[achris]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

Went for the down and dirty, and put a nice chrome pipe thread cap in the hole after adding some grease to prevent corrosion. Waiting on a MV8500 pump to make sure all the seals are good before servicing up for the Start-up after long term storage.

Added grease to prevent corrosion.... What have you done to prevent electrolysis between the chrome cap and the aluminium housing?

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

Added grease to prevent corrosion.... What have you done to prevent electrolysis between the chrome cap and the aluminium housing?

Teflon tape Or better yet, I could find an aluminum cap and polish it up!

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

MityVac pressure pump will be here tomorrow. Will be pressure checking the drive at 10 psi. If all checks good, I'll service it up and go for the start up. Any tips on the fuel side? Should I prime the pump before trying to start it up since it has be sitting so long?

 

[achris]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

Leave the spark plugs out and spin it over until you get oil pressure... Prime the fuel system and put the plugs back in... Go for start...

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

Got the MityVac pump today, and drive does not hold pressure above 5 psi and slowly drops to zero. Any suggestions on this? Like the typical seals that go bad? I used soapy water around the split seam and did not find any leaks. Pulled the prop and checked the aft seal, no leaks there either, so I am thinking it is an internal seal. Thanks a lot for you guidance achris!

 

[Don S]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

There are no typical seals that fail in a drive. Have you listened carefully for the air leak. When it's quiet, you can usually hear them. Or get a spray bottle with some soapy water and spray everywhere. The bubbles will tell you where the leak is.

Some people actually submerge the drive in water to look for bubbles, I wouldn't recommend it, no reason to soak your ujoints in water.

PS, you would probably get a lot more replies to your questions if you started a new thread with each different thing you work on. You have gone from basic info, to no spark to a drive leak in the same thread. How do you expect people to notice when you change subjects?

 

[rbthntr64]

Re: Back on this classic and use a few pointers ;o)

PS, you would probably get a lot more replies to your questions if you started a new thread with each different thing you work on. You have gone from basic info, to no spark to a drive leak in the same thread. How do you expect people to notice when you change subjects?

Only had one guy guiding me, so didn't think I'd muddy up the board with a bunch of individual threads. They are all dealing with the same MCM 120 I am working on. If this is how you would like me to post, I will honor that, as I see you are a Moderator here.