Ball Valves on engine to make raw water draining easier

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Every ball valve i have ever operated or installed had alot of friction in turning on and off. And I have installed many. I would not worry about a ball valve opening on it's own. The locking ones look like an option but then again, it seems you would be defeating the whole purpose of "one hand" easy access. If you have to use both hands to lock the valve handle, then you are not gaining anything. I think you would be just fine with standard ball valves.

please keep us updated on your install. I think it's a great idea.

TOm

Gotta agree with this. I use 1/4 turn valves for the toilet on my boat.. No locking on those, and in 20 years, never opened on their own.

Chris..........
 

Chuckles88

Seaman
Joined
Aug 28, 2018
Messages
51
Ball valves trap water in them when fully closed or fully opened. It doesn’t take much of a freeze to crack the sides. Turning the handle to a 45 can help prevent this but can still trap some water.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,103
This plug is sold with red loctite, so it s probably in place with red loctite. How do I remove this plug that is screwed into the manifold and block with red loctite?

Ayuh,..... That's thread sealant, not lock-tite,....

Just unscrew 'em,.....
 

icyb

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 28, 2018
Messages
40
this little tool makes taking the drain plugs a breeze, i ground some notches with a cut off wheel. tool.jpg
 

tacx

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 26, 2017
Messages
215
Im sorry , but ball valves DO NOT TRAP WATER, when closed they are closed, when open they are completely open. I don't know what type valves you are talking about , but ball valves open completely with no chance of trapping water.
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,442
I'll continue to use the factory hex head pipe plugs. I've drained my block so many times I can do it blind, by feel. Not the point. Seems a lot of fuss over ball valves leaking, and I don't see the worry. I used to ramajama my plugs tight, then realized there is low pressure in the raw water open system - which is what this discussion is about.

Also, I think (corrections welcome), a weepy, slow leak will compromise your bilge more than the engine. The sea water/raw water pump will refill any block loss. Thinking this since I fill a running dry engine in the spring on the muffs, and it seems the exhaust gets the last water after the block is full. If so, any loss from the ball valves would be refilled in real time.

True or false?
 

Chuckles88

Seaman
Joined
Aug 28, 2018
Messages
51
I worked in irrigation for quite a few years and we would sell hundreds of plastic,brass and stainless replacements every spring due to freezing. All of the manufacturers would tell us to turn the valves to 45 degrees while blowing air through the valves to get all of the water out. Not being aggressive but have you looked at how they work? The inlet and outlet of the ball has to clear the housing on the sides which creates a pocket. I wouldn’t chance it in my boat.
 

zellerj

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 13, 2017
Messages
136
s-l500.jpg


On my 1988 4.3 L there were installed four of these. The threads to the pet **** seem to be 20 threads per inch, according to my thread gauge, but I can't find a nut in the hardware store that will screw on to them. Closest is 1/2 inch X 20. My conclusion is that this must be a proprietary thread size. The plug that the pet **** screws into has NPT 1/4 inch X 17 threads for going into the block and manifold, the same as my ball valves.

I tried removing the 5/8 inch hexagon plug using an open end wrench, which just slid around the corners of the hex. Next I tried a 12 point deep well socket - also rounded the corners. This is when I thought that the red on the threads in the above picture was Loctite. So I heated the plug with a propane torch, and it still would not come loose. (Red Loctite is suppose to loosen up at 550 F).

Thanks to Bondo, who said that is was just thread sealer, and not Loctite, I decided that the way to go was use a deep well 5/8 inch 6 point socket( skinny spark plug socket), that grips the flats of the hex and not the sharp corners. My 3/8 inch drive ratchet from Craftsman was pretty short, so I brought a foot long section of pipe to the boat in case I needed to increase my leverage. Because of the rounded corners of the hex, I had to tap the deep well six point socket onto the plug, put on my Craftsman ratchet, and no go. Added the pipe and I was able to move it. 10 seconds later the plug was in my hand. Screwing in the ball valve with Teflon tape on the threads was easy. My ball valves used a 11/16 in wrench.

I installed all four and I don't think anything will be in the way that can inadvertently open the valve. The starboard side block drain was the hardest to get to, I had to move the inlet hose out of the way to get the socket on the plug. After installation, I left the manifold valves open. I did find that I had to tip the bow of the boat up to get all of the water to drain out of the manifold. Since I use pink antifreeze - poured down the fat water pump hose, I opened the block ball valves for a little bit to flush all of the water out of the valve and only pink antifreeze came out. This should prevent freezing as warned by Chuckles88. I also poured some antifreeze down the water inlet hose until it was pink going out my outdrive.

So you can tell I am not a mechanic (a real mechanic would have used a 6 point right from the git go and been done three days ago), but I have total respect for the knowledge and skills that they demonstrate, and share on this wonderful forum. Thanks to all the regular contributors.

Next summer I will let you know how they work on a vibrating engine.
 

zellerj

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 13, 2017
Messages
136
So for three years I have used the ball valves. So far so good. Draining the manifolds are a piece of cake. The port side block is easy. Where I have trouble is the starboard side block drain of the 5.7 L SBC. The issue is the cooling hose coming from the stern drive. This hose gets in the way of clearing the ball valve with a piece of wire. Takes me a few minutes to figure out where the valve is, especially with the port engine where there is not a lot of room between the two engines. I also have a boat with a single 4.3 L engine, and the yellow handled ball valves are a snap to see and to clear with a piece of wire or a small allen wrench. If you have trouble finding the drain plugs, I would recomment ball valves.
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,443
So for three years I have used the ball valves. So far so good. Draining the manifolds are a piece of cake. The port side block is easy. Where I have trouble is the starboard side block drain of the 5.7 L SBC. The issue is the cooling hose coming from the stern drive. This hose gets in the way of clearing the ball valve with a piece of wire. Takes me a few minutes to figure out where the valve is, especially with the port engine where there is not a lot of room between the two engines. I also have a boat with a single 4.3 L engine, and the yellow handled ball valves are a snap to see and to clear with a piece of wire or a small allen wrench. If you have trouble finding the drain plugs, I would recomment ball valves.
I was waiting for @GA_Boater to get all 😡 and close this thread 😁

Do you have a pic or the size of the ball joint you ended up using? I'm intrigued.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
I was waiting for @GA_Boater to get all 😡 and close this thread 😁

Do you have a pic or the size of the ball joint you ended up using? I'm intrigued.
Why should I? I don't get mad, I do try to keep the dead threads where they belong - In the crypt. kellerj can reopen any thread he started, as can any member - Thems the rules.
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,443
Why should I? I don't get mad, I do try to keep the dead threads where they belong - In the crypt. kellerj can reopen any thread he started, as can any member - Thems the rules.
I know, just joking. I read through the old thread until I got to the end and realized kellerj had resurrected it.
 

zellerj

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 13, 2017
Messages
136
1/4 inch male NPT, brass. I suppose bronze ones are also available for salt water applications.


1605824844442.png
 

zellerj

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 13, 2017
Messages
136
Just in case a ball valve does trap water, after draining the block of cooling water, I run pink antifreeze through the hoses until it runs pink out the valves. I then open and close the valve a few time to rinse out any water that may be trapped there.

When I lived in Michigan, I had a ball valve crack over the winter for my lawn sprinkling system. I assumed that I closed the ball valve with water still in the ball, and when that water froze the valve cracked. Now I am not sure. Perhaps there was some water trapped behind the ball when the ball was open, and that water is what caused the freeze damage. I wonder?
 
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