Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

[DavidW2009]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

I have not pulled the prop to verify the number. I need to read some more on this apparently easy procedure. Never done an O/B prop before.

I did notice a stick-on dot on the backside of the lower unit that has the number '14' in it. First thought is it's a 14 pitch prop (???).

Post # 19: Spring bushings are all okay. Lubed them with motorcycle chain oil.

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

Going thru this forum under "Restoration", I read that Marinetex is a good product for filling in those hull dings. I bought the small kit of the white for $16.

After prepping the four dings, per posts under restoration, and using rubbing alcohol to clean the dings, I mixed half of the small kit (approx. 1 ounce) and applied it. Had about half of what was mixed left over.

Let it set for 24 hours and sanded flat this afternoon using #100 and #400 wet.

Overall, it was easy to fill and sand. The Marinetex seems to be a strong product that bonds well. Because the dings are below the waterline, I'm not going to paint over them. Can't even see them from a few feet back.

The Marinetex instructions say it doesn't have to be painted.

Thanks much to the fine posts on this forum.

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

Recently received a Clymer's Force Shop Manual. I agree. A manual is an absolute must. These should be standard equipment with a new boat.

Follow up: The motorcycle chain lube applied to the spring anchors fixed the squeaking I was hearing.

Here is something I typed up this morning for the Bayliner/Force note binder I've started on this boat:

Lower End Oil Change Force 120 HP
Compiled: Oct. 15, 2009
Updated: Oct. 15, 2009

Reference: Clymer's Force Outboard Shop Manual
B751-4 Fourth Edition, Sixth Printing


Lower End Oil Capacity (page 489) 22.5 ounces (665 ml)
Use High Quality SAE 90 EP
Gear Lube For Outboards.
(The manufacturer recommends Quicksilver Premium Blend Gear Lube.)

Before doing the following, purchase and have on hand new drain/fill/vent plug seals.


Gearcase Lubrication (page 118)

Check lubricant level after the first (30) hours of operation and replace the lubricant at (100) hours or 6-month intervals (once per season minimal).

Thereafter, check the lubricant level at (50) hour intervals.

Caution: Do not use automotive grease in the gearcase. Its expansion and foam characteristics are not suitable for marine use.

Use high quality SAE 90 EP gear lube for outboards.
The manufacturer recommends Quicksilver Premium Blend Gear Lube.


Gearcase Lubricant Level Check (pages 119 to 121)

A Mercury large engine lower gearcase is used on all 1995-1999 90 to 120 HP models. The gearcase uses a single fill/drain plug and (2) vent plugs.

To ensure correct gear lube check, the outboard motor must be in the upright position and not run for at least (2) hours prior to performing this procedure.
(Need to allow time for oil and water to separate (if there is any water present).)

1. Remove engine cover and disconnect the spark plug leads as a safety precaution to prevent accidental starting of the engine.

2. Locate and loosen (but do not remove) the gearcase fill/drain plug. (Do not loosen or remove the shift pivot pin. Properly identify the fill/drain plug) Allow a small amount of lubricant to drain. If water is present inside the gearcase, it will drain before the lubricant. (Or lubricant is milky, indicating water mixed with oil) Retighten the fill/drain plug securely.

3. If water is noted in step #2, drain the lubricant completely and pressure test the gearcase to determine if a seal has failed or if the is simply condensation in the gearcase. See Chapter Nine, Clymer's Manual.

4. Remove the vent plugs (there are 2 vent plugs on the 120 HP Force. Both are on the same side of the case.) Replace the accompanying sealing washers. The lubricant should be level with the bottom of the vent plug holes.

Caution: The vent plugs are provided to vent displaced air while lubricant is added to the gearcase. Never attempt to fill or add lubricant without removing both the vent plugs.


5. Refill Procedure for Dual Vent 120 HP Models:

a. If the lubricant level is low, remove the drain/fill plug. Replace the accompanying sealing washer.
b. Inject lubricant into the fill hole until lubricant flows out the from a vent hole.
c. Next, install the vent plug into the hole that is flowing with oil.
d. Continue to inject lubricant until the lubricant flows from the other vent
hole.
e. Install the last vent plug then install the drain/fill plug.
f. Tighten all plugs securely.
g. Wipe any excess lubricant from the gearcase exterior.
h. Recheck lubricant level after 30 minutes. Repeat the above, if necessary.

Note: The best refill system is the type that threads into drain/fill hole and has a pump to inject the lubricant into the gearcase. It easier to control the procedure and the desired results with this product.


Gearcase Lubricant Change (pages 120, 121)

1. Remove engine cover and disconnect the spark plug leads as a safety precaution to prevent accidental starting of the engine.

2. Place a clean container under the drain/fill plug at the bottom of the gearcase and remove the drain/fill plug.

Note: Do not mistake the shift pivot screw for the drain plug. If the shift pivot screw is removed, a complete disassembly of the gearcase will be required to reinstall the screw correctly.

3. Remove the (2) vent plugs. Replace the sealing washers on all the plugs. Allow the lubricant to drain completely from the gearcase (one to two hours).

4. Inspect the drained lubricant for contamination and/or metal filings and/or metal chips.

Note: If the lubricant is milky colour, water contamination is indicated. Pressure test the gearcase (Chapter Nine, Clymer?s Manual) and correct the problems found. The presence of a small amount of metal filings and fine metal particles (accumulated on the drain/fill magnet) in the lubricant is normal, while an excessive amount of metal filings and larger chips indicates a problem. Remove and disassemble the gearcase to determine the source and cause of the metal filings and chips. Repair or replace any damaged parts. See Chapter Nine, Clymer?s.

5. Refill the gearcase with recommended gear lube using the Refill Procedure for 120 HP Models shown above.

6. Check lubricant level again after at least 30 minutes.

7. Securely tighten all plugs.

 

[puddleboater]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

Due to my lack of time with this boat/trailer, it was hard to get it lined up to pull out. For me, it will need hull guides added to the trailer.

With some practice, you should be able to line up the hull with the bunks.

It would help when you back the trailer into the water, to leave about 25-30% of the bunk sticking out of the water. I've found this worked really well and there was no need to use guides. The only thing is you need to drive the boat up the bunks a little bit, which may require throttling the motor above mid-line.

I launch in saltwater ramps where there is little fuss with this technique, although it may not be acceptable in small lakes, due to the throttling. If it is an issue in your area, don't throttle the motor. Just hook up the winch strap and crank her in.

 

[jt185]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

Here is the check list I used to buy this boat. Most is cut and pasted but I added a few things, also:

Boat Inspection 081409

1. Check for bare fiberglass below the waterline. Cause for rejection.
2. Check for scratches, damage, chips in gelcoat.
3. Inspect and photograph hull thoroughly. Crawl around in jump suit.
4. Check stringers for wood rot and strength
5. Check transom and stern drive for flexing (lift up on lower unit), leaks.
6. Check all lights, horn, electrics.
7. Check engine:
Compression
Vacuum readings
Oil pressure
Oil leaks
Assume it's going to need an impeller
Water leaks

General wiring, condition of wires
Hoses

Engine compartment condition
Owner/mechanic abuse

Milky Oil on dipstick or under breather cap

With large screwdriver, check for water in lower unit

Pull the lower unit oil and look for milky colored oil, i.e. water in lower unit

Spin the prop shaft to be sure it's not bent i.e. uneven wobbly spin. If it's locked up and in neutral, somethings wrong.

Look at the condition of the prop/skeg (i.e. bent)
Take it for a test drive and run it wide open and check the max rpms rated for the motor, ie you don't want excessive overage in rpms rated for the motor and also know what the min water pressure is for your motor

Power lift work? Is there an up-lock for drive?

Was boat used in saltwater?

Check charging voltage

Check battery and batt box mounting

8. Check for dry bilge before lake testing.
9. Check for oil leaks in bilge.
10. Check for bilge pump.
11. Check for stopper plug (transom)
12. Check for water leaks while on lake and after pulled out of the water.
13. Check floor for soft spots.
14. Check for wood rot in storeage compartments.
15. Check function and condition of walk-thru window and door.
16. Check all gauges and instruments.
17. Check trailer, overall condition:

Tires
Steel structure
Salt water use?
Condition of tie down straps
Condition of tires
Condition of wheel bearings
Condition of hull supports
Safety chains included?

18. Contact former owner and get an idea of maintenance, problems and how the boat was used.
19. Boat Inspection:
1. Do not pick the boat up in the rain. You can't make a good evaluation on the condition of a boat in the rain. It makes it very hard to find the gouges/stress cracks, flaws etc.

2. Start from one end of the boat and work your way around it in. Rub your hands and scan with your eyes all along the side of the boat looking for scratches, stress cracks, etc. especially around the console and splash well area.

3. Look at the keel very closely especially around the U bolt where you hook it up with the winch and make sure the U bolt is attached firmly.

4. Get on your back and look under the actual hull between the tires and the trailer tongue of the boat between the bunkers. If you hit something with a boat it is going to hit toward the back of the boat ie the Pad area. Be looking for fiberglass exposure ie matting, major gouges etc.

5. Get on your back right under the motor and look at the very back of the pad. Another popular place to hit an object. If the hull shows very little scratches and use chances are pretty good you got a GREAT boat!

6. Take a look at the bilge area and notice if there is any water in there. If so drain the water take the boat for a test drive and recheck the bilge (ie boat leaks). Any water in the bilge after a short short ride can mean a very noticeable leak on a longer trip!

7. Make sure all of the electronics work i.e. bilge pumps, battery charger, fish finders, rpm gauge, water pressure gauge, lights.

8. Look for anything obvious in all the storage compartments.

20. Check power head if it?s been welded. Cause for rejection.
21. Check to see if gaskets are painted or not.
22. Tools needed for inspection:
Large screwdriver
Tool kit
Compression gauge
Oil pressure gauge
Vacuum gauge
Tire gauge
Rags
Large adjustable wrench
Hammer
Camera
Ground wire
Starter push button
Volt Amp meter
Wax, polish, compound

23. Check finish for restorability, compound, polish, wax.

Seems to me you could write a manual on how to buy a boat. I couldv'e used this check list last July!

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

puddleboater,

Thanks for the input.

After loading a few times (still need more practice), I've decided against powering it on to the trailer. For one thing, the bunks for this Bayliner are really low on the Capri trailer and any miscalulation could lead to hull gouges or dings.

And the steeper the ramp angle, the more potential for contact with the trailer.

So, I plan on pulling it into the bunks by hand, then crank it up the rest of the way. I'm going to try spraying the bunks with silicone and let it dry while out on the lake.

There are some who are so good at this, they power their boat off of the trailer as well as back on.

Maybe with a lot of practice.......... but I don't want to ruin the boat learning how to trailer it without guides.

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

I took the Bayliner to Lake Hartwell this afternoon.
Sunny, low 70's, calm, nice fall day.

Got a chance to try out the new hull guides on the trailer.

Since no one around, I practiced launching and loading.

When the trailer was in the water just far enough to float the stern, I waded into the water to the guides. Using black electric tape, I wrapped it around the guides at the water level.

Now when backing in, I can see the tape on the guides in the truck's rearview mirrors and stop where it needs to be to load or unload the boat.

The guides did better than I thought at physically keeping the boat in line. They work both as visual and physical guides. Of course, the 1700 is not that heavy a boat.

None of the lakes I go to have cross current and have not had any trouble with boat wake.

Reading in the trailer section of this forum, I've concluded this rig (Capri trailer came with the boat new) is just too low.

The biggest aggravation is not being able to lower the motor all the way without hitting the ground. I may try flipping the axle and mounting the springs on top. But plan on looking into new springs, or re-arcing the existing ones.

 

[WAVENBYE2]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

Nice looking boat and good find!! Hope you get plenty of enjoyment out of her

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

WAVENBYE2:

Thanks.

Bayliner seems to be with the leaders when it comes to overall design, with eye catching appeal.

I've read elsewhere, the hulls are designed to be fast and plane quickly. That is true with the 1700. I know this is not saying much, but it's the fastest boat I've been on.

 

[johnstonjohnr]

Re: Bayliner 1700 LS, Questions and ?How To???..?

Jenason,

I took the 1700 to Lake Keowee, S.C. today for a spin and just get use to it.

By myself, half tank of fuel, the boat hit 45 at redline (5200 RPM). I also discovered that the engine keeps revving past redline. Need more load, I think.

The prop (suppose to be the original) is probably sized and pitched for a normal load of four people and gas.

I'm getting use to the boat and did some hard cornering and stuff.

Above 4,000 RPM, the boat really takes off. The engine comes alive.

Did your boat come with a removable ski mast (pole?)? I think I read it is standard equipment on the LS models.

Edit: Note to self: It's a 'ski pylon', not a ski mast/pole. Got to get up to speed with present day boating terminology.

Lake Keowee...we just started going there with our new to us old boat. I just got a 1987 Bayliner 17' with an 85hp US Marine motor and trailer for $358.00. Best $358.00 I have ever spent. Just in time for my kids summer vacation from school. Now I just need to figure out how to change my schedule around so I only have to 2 days a week and have 5 off. Something tells me that is not going to work so well!