Before I redrill the front mounts...

[Rinker95]

95 Rinker Capiva 190 with 4.3LX Alpha1Gen2 "free" boat. This boat was given to my wife 2 years ago with a broken windshield (snow load) and water in the oil. I should mention that the P/O replaced the lower gear case with an SEI after contacting some Willamette River underwater basalt. After an oil change (after pressure testing the block) and some 1/8 inch acrylic for a windshield, we used it for some great family fun. As a winter project, I decided to replace bellows, water and gear oil monitor hoses, trim sender and limit switch, and various other issues of deferred maintenance. Now I've received my alignment bar, and most of the replacement parts. I have inserted the alignment bar for a preliminary check through a new gimbal bearing sans tolerance ring. The initial alignment bar insertion was tight and the witness marks were on the top and starboard side. After loosening the rear mounts and removing the lag bolts from the front (I should also mention that the aft starboard lag bolt was broken off 1/2 inch down when we got the boat, I got a very nice preliminary alignment by moving the front mounts a full 1/4+ inch to port. I am assuming this must have been due to the basalt contact. The alignment was perfect in 4 quadrants of engine rotation. However, this deviation of 1/4 inch from factory position seems to me like a large shift. Before I fill and redrill for new lag bolts in front, I am wondering if I am missing something. The transom seems very solid when I try to torque it side to side with a 2 inch hardwood branch inserted into the gimbal bearing seal bore. I can detect no dullness to percussion in the transom. I'm thinking bent rear mount bolt? If so, should I remove both bolts to check? Is the nut captive underneath? I can barely feel the nuts much less get a wrench on them since they are so close to the Y pipe and I'm afraid I might not be able to get the nuts back on because of the clearance. It's very tempting to just put things back together as is since I have achieved such a nice preliminary alignment. I'm new to this and very appreciative of the expert advice so generously given out here. By the way, what should I use to fill the old lag bolt holes?

 

[nola mike]

The motor won't be off that far laterally unless something is very wrong. You could have collapsed rear mount(s), which could alter the lateral alignment. Bigger concern would be rot somewhere. This boat seems like it was super abused. I would make damn sure that the transom, rear stringers, and motor mount boxes are solid before doing anything else. You need to take core samples of everything. Unless it's completely hollowed out, tapping and whatever else are worthless. You can try jumping on the outdrive (yes, you need to stress it) and see if you get any flex. Again though, you can still have a significant amount of rot where that test would not pick it up. Drill multiple holes in the rear of your transom, the farther down and closer to the bilge drain and inner transom shield the better. Same with the mount boxes and stringers. Anything wet or mushy and you need to reevaluate. You can fill holes with 5200, 4200, epoxy, thickened poly resin...

 

[Rinker95]

The motor won't be off that far laterally unless something is very wrong. You could have collapsed rear mount(s), which could alter the lateral alignment. Bigger concern would be rot somewhere. This boat seems like it was super abused. I would make damn sure that the transom, rear stringers, and motor mount boxes are solid before doing anything else. You need to take core samples of everything. Unless it's completely hollowed out, tapping and whatever else are worthless. You can try jumping on the outdrive (yes, you need to stress it) and see if you get any flex. Again though, you can still have a significant amount of rot where that test would not pick it up. Drill multiple holes in the rear of your transom, the farther down and closer to the bilge drain and inner transom shield the better. Same with the mount boxes and stringers. Anything wet or mushy and you need to reevaluate. You can fill holes with 5200, 4200, epoxy, thickened poly resin...

Thanks Mike. Drill from the inside or outside of the transom? 1/8 inch holes or larger? The lag bolts in the mount boxes were in very tight and dry but I'll be drilling there anyway if the rear mounts are ok. For lag bolt hole filler, I think I need some filler quite solid but drillable since the new bolts will be adjacent to the old bolt holes. I assume that rules out the polyurethane sealants. Could I spin those lower front mount pieces 45 or 90 degrees to get away from the old holes? Is checking the rear mounts a motor out job? What about the rear mount nuts if I take the bolts out to check them. Is there a trick to getting those nuts back on? Pics of rear mounts are starboard, then port.

 

[todhunter]

If it's anything like my Alpha One Gen 1 transom plate, the inner transom plate has a slot that holds the nut captive while you pull the bolt out. Once the bolt is out, you can slide the nut forward towards the bow and out of the slot in the transom plate. I'm new to boats though, so I'm not sure how similar the Gen 1 and Gen 2 inner transom plates are.

 

[Bondo]

the inner transom plate has a slot that holds the nut captive while you pull the bolt out. Once the bolt is out, you can slide the nut forward towards the bow and out of the slot in the transom plate.

Ayuh,..... I tape the nuts into the captive slots,.....

Saves alotta time chasin' 'em around the bilge,....

 

[Rinker95]

Ayuh,..... I tape the nuts into the captive slots,.....

Saves alotta time chasin' 'em around the bilge,....

Thanks todhunter and Bondo. Checked those bolts (straight), didn't lose the nuts, and noticed a couple dents on the inner transom, by the inner transom plate bosses, most likely, I think, due to the basalt impact. The dents are deep enough, I think, to account for the lateral misalignment of the forward mounts by the 1/4 inch (see pic). There doesn't appear to be any penetration of the fiberglass. I snugged up the inner transom plate mounting nuts (some were a little loose), and now need to get those torque values for the rear mount nuts. I'm not going to replace the transom, stringers, foam, or floor on this boat and I can't seem to induce any movement or even a wiggle in the transom, so I'll probably finish aligning, secure the front mounts maybe twisted 45 degrees, and finish the installation. Please chime in if you think I'm nuts. Jim