Bennett tab issue

[redneck joe]

ok finally got time to run over and put in. Not leaking at the pump now but port still will not move.

thoughts?

 

[Tabman]

Joe,

Here is a link to a video that covers the basic system and general troubleshooting http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videoplayer.php?vID=10

Here is a link to a video that covers troubleshooting the pump if it runs and a Trim Tab does not move http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videoplayer.php?vID=22

Take a look at step 3 below, it will walk you through the test I think will isolate your problem. Make sure that ALL the screws are tight on the back of the switch even if they don't have a wire attached, this could be your problem. Also pay particular attention to the red wire since it opens the valve for the port Trim Tab.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Fluid: Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) any type. Hydraulic Power Unit is self bleeding, running the Trim Tabs up and down 3-4 times will purge air from the system.

Fuse: 12 volt system use 20 amp in-line fuse on positive. (24v & 32v use proportionately smaller)

Red= Port Valve
Green= Starboard Valve
Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
Black on HPU=Ground
Orange on Helm=Control Positive

Troubleshooting

1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
Orange (+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
Orange (+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

5. If you conclude the problem is in the pump, contact me. Bennett Trim Tab Systems carry a five year warranty.

6. Check to see if there is a relay in line on the wiring harness near the hydraulic power unit. If there is it is an Interrupter Relay (IR1000). It prevents the system fuse from blowing if you try to actuate one trim tab up and the other down at the same time. After you test as outlined above, try removing the relay from the wiring harness and retest the unit.(Note: the interrupter relay is no longer used in current Bennett Trim Tab systems and has been replaced with a Switches that "lock out" preventing a blown fuse).

 

[redneck joe]

Checking in during lunch I'll wat watch later. That said I did run all the tests pior (twice) so no switch problem and was able to blow thru hydraulic line so thinking actuator.

 

[Tabman]

I just reread all of your posts. Did you take the actuators off the boat and then reinstall them? If so I suspect that you screwed the pipe nipple too far into the actuator, blocking the fluid flow. The nipples should be screwed in only two turns past finger tight. Then it is very important to hold the pipe nipples with a visegrip when tightening the 90 degree elbow on to them so it does not spin into the upper hinge any more.

If it was screwed in too much it will damage the upper hinge.

Send me your name and address in a private message and we will send you a new upper hinge and instructions how to replace it, no charge.

 

[redneck joe]

Not me, but that makes sense. I did have my transom re-done this year so they had to pull off. Didn't verify it was working when I got it back; so many other issues to fix (in and out of shop all summer) that I never got to the tabs. I do remember reading those instructions when I originally installed, especially the vice grips I am way to fat to be doing that and it was quite the challenge.

 

[redneck joe]

so on the pump I sent back; was there testing done to see what the leak was? Could it have been caused but the blocked line?

 

[Tabman]

Joe,

I just sent you a PM, I need a little more information to send you the upper hinge.

No, a blockage would not cause a leak in the pump. They are designed to run against fully down Tabs (same as a blockage) until the motor overheats and trips the thermal breaker.

Check your messages so we can send the part to you!

Tom

 

[redneck joe]

Update.



Finally got around to workingon the tab. Tough boating last year.


Sure enough, the cap was damaged by the folks doing the transom, and of course tabman got me a new pump under warranty. All is well on the old girls tabs......



Thank again tabman - when i was deciding on which tabs to buy for her bennetts customer service won the day and you have not dissapointed.





Two side notes, on the instructions sent i would recommend adding to step two to keep the cylinder upright when unscrewing the cap. Diveway cleanup is in progress. And on step six not sure but tightening sure looks felt like counter clockwise to me.

 

[Tabman]

Thanks Joe,

Pretty sure it's clockwise, and sending a recommendation to the guys that write the instructions to add to step 2 as you suggest.

Tom