bent skeg

cperna15

Cadet
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Messages
10
so i bent my sked and i had ir bent back but they cracked it and i dont have the money to have it replaced so i have been looking at a sked guard and i am likeing the blackfin skeg guard, any ideas?

btw i have a 1987 omc cobra outdrive with a 1998 3.0 omc motor
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: bent skeg

if there is enough skeg left, bolt on the skeg gaurd, if not run without it or have a good prop shop weld another on.
NEVER try to rebend a skeg.
typically they only bend once.
 

180shabah

Rear Admiral
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
4,995
Re: bent skeg

If it was a clean break (no bend remaining to add side force to the drive) I vote don't worry about - but stop hitting things :D
 

smatsinger

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 3, 2010
Messages
44
Re: bent skeg

If you order a Blackfin be prepared to wait. Overton's has them on back order. I ordered directly from their site and haven't heard anything in a week. Just charge my card and the order states pending. Their email address is no good and no one answers the phone or fax. :mad: Wish I knew WTH was gonig on with my order!
 

full stringer

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
184
Re: bent skeg

you probably know the right thing to do dont ya? take it to a prop shop or a good welder weld that guard on the skeg is weakened now being bent back cold
 

PitchFork

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 28, 2009
Messages
313
Re: bent skeg

Prop shop or get the SS one SKEGGARD its not on backorder. Must have 2-3" of skeg left. I made my own skeg gaurd at work since I work at metal shop, but I just threw it together quickly. The blackfin does give the OEM look.
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: bent skeg

It's obviously too late for the OP now, but there is a poor, and a better way, to straighten bent aluminum.

The "poor" and typical way is to hammer on the side of the tip of the skeg in the opposite direction of the bend to force it straight.
The original impact/bend stretched the metal on the outside radius of the curve. Then hammering on the tip to bring it back stretches the metal on in the inside of the radius. Now there's a line of stretched metal on both sides, making it very weak and prone to cracking.

The "better" way is to place a heavy block of steel against the skeg tip, then hammer on the outside of the curve. That tends to compress the stretched metal in the curve, and will usually be more reliable after. Use a heavy hammer and spread the hits out, using many light to medium blows.
 
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