Bilge Area Water Level

[JimS123]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

As others have said, zero water is the only acceptable amount. My drain plug hasn't been out in 28 years because I never had a drop of water to drain.

This isn't rocket science. A leak in a dry boat shouldn't take more than a minute or 2 to find, unless its in a totally inaccessible area.

Run the engine on the muffs for 15 minutes. If no water, its not the engine.

Put it in the water with the engine off. Raise the outdrive full up for a few minutes, then full down. I'll bet that test will show a bad bellows.

Whatever you do, pay close attention to the lowest part of the bilge, under the engine where the bilge pump is. Look for any rubber corks or plugs that vent the hull under the deck. If water comes out from there you have a crack in the hull that's not in the open bilge area. If your transom drain plug leaks it will be quite visible. If you can't see well enough into the WHOLE bilge, buy a mechanic's mirror with a telescopic handle.

 

[H20Rat]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

Just a FYI, 'zero water' is OK for I/O's and outboards, but many inboards and jets have very slow intentional leaks to lubricate the packing seals. In those boats, seeing no water in the bilge is BAD, it means you are going to be enjoying the really ugly job of replacing packing seals that were installed too tight. (most mfg's recommend at a minimum 1 drip per second from the stuffing box, up to almost a constant stream of water. If you are getting distinct drips, its OK. That can amount to a substantial amount of water!) But that is neither here nor there, OP doesn't have an inboard.

Anyway, back on topic. Someone suggested unloading and letting it sit and watch it. That is exactly what I would do. Unload it without starting the engine, and find a place where you can beach/tie up with the drive tilted up for a couple hours. (the drive part is important, it will open up any leaks in the bellows) If the boat is dry after a couple hours, you know the problem is probably not the plug or bellows, and now look at things that can leak while moving. (cooling system, speedo cable, rub rails, etc...)

Anyway, exactly how much water are you talking? pints, or gallons?

 

[QC]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

I thought this sounded familiar: http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/new-engine-block-break-573045.html

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

Yes, that is the Thread I done asking about the new block/engine break-in time and then told about the excess water we seen in the bilge area while going back to the ramp. Why did I do this Thread? I didn't feel like I got enought info on the other thread pertaining to the excess water we seen. Perhaps I shouldn't done this Thread, but I have learned more than I did in the other one.

I thought this sounded familiar: http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/new-engine-block-break-573045.html

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

I am surprised you haven't pulled the drive yet.

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

I don't do any kind of work like that, but will be taking it into the dealer in December. This Sunday we are planning to go over and check out some things with the Mechanics Inspection Mirror that I bought. During that time, we will start the engine, let it get to op temperature and I will take a look with that mirror. That is the only thing we can physically do ourselves before taking it in in December.

I am surprised you haven't pulled the drive yet.

 

[QC]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

Perhaps I shouldn't done this Thread, but I have learned more than I did in the other one.

All good LB. Just posted for reference. I think you need to methodically follow some of the suggestions. Must be in order to eliminate things one at a time. If eliminated, drop it, move on. You'll find it, but you need to be methodical. No guessing and speculation. Good luck. We'll continue to help, but you need to follow a plan.

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

Got the boat back from the shop last week and only water leakage that was found was from a bushing in the water cooling tube area of the outdrive. It was changed. Mechanic told me that, for the age of our boat (1992), our engine and drive are in very good condition. Glad to hear that! While at the shop, new trim position switches were installed, new horn and new water pump in the outdrive. New drive lube was also put in.

 

[etracer68]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

Did the shop put the boat in the water and check for leaks? If not, most likely, you still have a leaker.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

Checking for leaks is like finding the leak in a milk jug or any other container with a liquid in it -- only in reverse. Water can only get into a boat if there is a path for water to flow from the outside in. Any accessory or any fastener that protrudes through the hull or is attached to it is a potential source of leakage. Dunking the boat and leaving it at the dock while you listen to tunes is a good check. If the boat was bone dry when you launched it but not an hour or so later, you have a leak at or below the water line. With the boat on a trailer examine the hull from keel to top for damaage. Even a small crack can let in a bunch of water as the hull flexes at speed. Remember also that any water that gets into the boat may spread forward. Next time you launch that water may end up in the bilge. If the boat only takes on water when under way, look for stern-drive and hull/transom/keel issues.

 

[HenryB]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

I have a built-in bait well that when full if underway sloshes water into my bilge because the seal at the top of the tank is not tightly adhered to the surface that it should be adhered to. I don't have a freshwater tank but that could be a possible source. If you are on a trailer with the keel fairly horizontal, the drain plug installed, and a hose running to fill the bilge to somewhat above the normal water line and crank the keel up above horizontal to where the boat rides underway, you should see if you have a leaky hull.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

While at the shop, new trim position switches were installed, new horn and new water pump in the outdrive. New drive lube was also put in.

They pulled the drive right?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

Did they drill your transom and check the shavings for wet or rotten wood?

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

The Mercruiser Dealer/Mechanic backed the boat into the water, on the ramp, and looked for water leaks that way........engine running, drive down/running and only found that bushing to be leaking some water. When we take the boat out again, in a couple of months, I will use a small Mag flashlight I now have and an inspection mirror to look also. BUT, the mechanic assured us that we haven't got any other leaks.....that he could see.

New drive lube was put into the drive when the water pump was replaced.........drive taken off, I guess. If that is the only way to replace a water pump.

Mechanic Supervisor inspected our drive bellows and told me they were fine.

CURIOUSITY QUESTION: When underway, do you have your bilge pump on "auto" or "off"?????

 

[Maclin]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

Quote...:"CURIOUSITY QUESTION: When underway, do you have your bilge pump on "auto" or "off"????? ..."

If you have an automatic pump then it should be wired to be in that mode all the time, and the switch on the dash will run it on-demand manaully whether or not the pump sees water.

In my opinion the best configuration is a float switch wired to the battery, and the switch on the dash be on demand, the pump has to be optioned for this. That way the pump will run even if you do not know you have high water in the bilge. You can also run it manually for whatever condition may warrant that. In this scenario there is no on/off for "auto" mode.

If you have one of those cycling every so often pumps then leave it on in auto mode, but be ready for battery drain in between trips.

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

We have a toggle switch on the dash for "on"/"off"/"auto". Up 'til now, we have kept it in the "off" position cause we never seen any water in the bilge area while underway. But, we've also been told to put it in the "auto" position while underway in case some water does get into the bilge area, it will be automatically be pumped out while underway. BUT, just how would a boater ever know if they have got any kind of water leak if the pump is on "auto"?

Quote...:"CURIOUSITY QUESTION: When underway, do you have your bilge pump on "auto" or "off"????? ..."

If you have an automatic pump then it should be wired to be in that mode all the time, and the switch on the dash will run it on-demand manaully whether or not the pump sees water.

In my opinion the best configuration is a float switch wired to the battery, and the switch on the dash be on demand, the pump has to be optioned for this. That way the pump will run even if you do not know you have high water in the bilge. You can also run it manually for whatever condition may warrant that. In this scenario there is no on/off for "auto" mode.

If you have one of those cycling every so often pumps then leave it on in auto mode, but be ready for battery drain in between trips.

 

[HenryB]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

I have a live well forward, no pump, it fills if the drain plug is removed and the boat stationary and drains underway if the plug is removed.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

BUT, just how would a boater ever know if they have got any kind of water leak if the pump is on "auto"?

You should be able to:

1. Hear the pump kick on.

2. Hear the water splashing as the water is pumped out and hits the water as it is discharged.

3. See the water being pumped out after you hear the noises and look around and say "what's that noise, and where is it coming from?"

Of course you probably won't be able to hear this while underway, but at rest or tied to the dock you should.

 

[Maclin]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

As jigngrub wrote, you will be "notified" by noticing water coming out of the bilge pump exit.

For your case LB, least risk is leaving it in AUTO all the time. Just be ready for power drain in between sessions if it is the kind that cycles automatically.

Least-est risk is installing a non-cycling pump that can be wired for a float switch, and have the float switch connected to battery power. Then just check the float switch every so iften to make sure it is free of debris. And as always keep the boat free of trash that could end up in the bilge and affect the float switch operation and clog bilge pump inlet.

 

[beardeddone]

Re: Bilge Area Water Level

One other thing if you find unexplained water in the bilge if you have a live well with a pump mounted on the rear of your transom could have a leak anywhere in that system as I replaced both livewell/bilge pump and found that my live well pump was cracked allowing water to enter the bilge when the pump was on, but may not leak much when the pump was off.

I haven't read here if you have a live well, but if you do you could always fill it and let it over flow if your has an overflow line and see if water shows up in the bilge, if not you can take the debrea cap off of the the back and shove a smaller hose in the intake with the other end in a 5 gallon bucket filled with water in a higher position then your bilge so the water will prime into the pump and turn your live well pump on until your live well overflows, again if you have an overflow hose connected to the live well. You will also need to keep your water hose handy to keep a water supply for the 5 gallon container supplied with water. Also check to see if the pump is loose and sealed with sealer.

If you don't have a live well, I may have missed it in this thread, but it's just a thought and a possibility if you do.

Another possibility did you have an ice chest on board when that happened and is it possible that it could have drained while on the deck without being noticed.