Bimini Top Frame

VaGent

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
221
I was "given" a 7/8" SS round tubular bimini top frame today with all the fittings in really good shape by a friend who decided to buy himself a brand new one due to the canvas being rotten as well as the boot cover. I've been looking at bimini tops for my pontoon boat & most all that I see are using 1-1/4" square tubing for the frame. Is there any advantage using the 7/8" round tubing verses using the 1-1/4" square? I can spend less then $200.00 for a new replacement top verses over $400.00 for a complete new one. Money is tight these days but I want to make sure I have something that will withstand the wind when I'm out on the water.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Bimini Top Frame

i doubt the tubular is wide enough, but you can cut it in the middle and splice it. mine has the tube frame.
 

VaGent

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
221
Re: Bimini Top Frame

Did you have to splice yours? Mine is wide enough at the bottom & it appears to taper in at the top. How much I don't really know yet as I just got it today & it's too cold to go outside & mess with it right now. 43 here right now & going down into the 20s tonight.
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: Bimini Top Frame

While it could be tapered, this would be unusual. Measure it to see for sure.
I've refitted two frames this year, fortunately going smaller.
The process is the same as TD describes; I had to cut and splice - just remove some tube instead of add.
Are the tubes one piece? Any seams in them? Where?
 

VaGent

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
221
Re: Bimini Top Frame

While it could be tapered, this would be unusual. Measure it to see for sure.
I've refitted two frames this year, fortunately going smaller.
The process is the same as TD describes; I had to cut and splice - just remove some tube instead of add.
Are the tubes one piece? Any seams in them? Where?


They are one piece. NO joints. Can you buy "splicers" or "joiners" to widen them & if so who sells them. Just looking at the bows it sure looks like they taper "in" at the top. I'll measure them tomorrow to make sure.

A buddy of mine bought a bimini for his sail boat that he had to assemble himself. It had "splined" joiners that also had pre-drilled holes with pop rivets to complete the top.
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: Bimini Top Frame

You mean the tubes are bent inwards as opposed the the tubes actually tapering to a smaller diameter?

I have seen couplers, but do not know where to find them.
With the little bit of stainless I've come across, I've just gone to the welding shop ( I have a neighbor that works in one).
The rails I normally run across here in the low rent district are aluminum. In which case a smaller diameter pipe is inserted, drilled and riveted (as you described). You could to the same with SS.
Are you going to need to widen this thing or raise it or both?
 

VaGent

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
221
Re: Bimini Top Frame

Yes. Since the tubes appear to be bent "inward" instead of tapering smaller I will lengthen the wideth at the top of each bow. It is a 3 bow system. They are also stainless steel 7/8' OD. I'm going to look around for a smaller size that will slide inside of mine & either have it welder or riveted. I can buy a new top from Iboats.com as that is what I did for the one I made for my 15ft bass boat. I used regular 3/4" copper pipe & silver soldered the joints & installed a new top on it. It is working perfectly. I also used the SS fittings instead of the plastic fittings. That may be an "overkill" but it is working great. It's a 3 bow system. it turned out pretty good. I sanded the copper pipe & then primed it & painted it silver. The top is White & my wife loves it. Being a retired electrician/HVAC mechanic I am able to make a lot of things if I set my mind to it.
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: Bimini Top Frame

Good, now I understand better. This is easy and you're already on to it.
Cut the ribs in the center top. Find some pipe that fits inside your stainless, aluminum is fine, copper is too maleable. Cut one foot lengths that will slide into either side. I drill three holes on either side and rivet. Welding will be stronger. At some point on down the road the rivets will eventually loosen up and you'll get some slop in there. I've seen this mostly on bigger tents versus biminis though.
I use SS fittings whenever possible too. Plastic won't last forever.
A new top (6') should run about $80-$90.
Have at it!
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Bimini Top Frame

for added strength, cut the insert pipe longer, i have used schedule 40 pvc. and seeing it is flexible, it will take a slight curve. i have done inserts and inserted the aluminum into the pvc also. then just 2 screws to keep them together. using pvc, you get no electrolisis.
 
Top