Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

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chriscraft254

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I'm going to post the way I do it, some might find it benificial and others here will obviously disagree and say its dangerous. My question is, if your going to knock something, shouldn't you try it first to make sure what your claiming is actually true or fact! Or atleast ask someone how they do it and then maybe you will understand there is very little danger and there is probably more danger of cutting yourself on a piece of glass at the ramp, or slipping and falling, etc etc etc. Anyway, maybe this will give you some insight on how (we) power loaders do it. Here ya go! Bash away if you must!

I have been self launching my boats since I was a teenager since I fish alone alot . I am 41 now. This is how I do it.

1. Prepare boat before you get to the ramp with all the gear that you will need for your trip. Ice,coolers, fishing gear, cell phone, fenders, lines, etc. etc. etc. This will differ from person to person.
2. Install the drain plug and leave the keys in the ignition while still at home. Have a chock and line ready in your truck.
3. Have fenders staged at cleat locations if they will be needed. My ramp has a edge bumper so no need for fenders.
4. Approach staging area for ramp. Remove tie down straps from stern of boat. Tilt motor half way down.
5. Remove line from truck and tie it to your front cleat, coil the rest of line and place on bow where you can easily grab it once boat is backed down the ramp.
6. Once your turn comes around, back the trailer/boat into the water just so the stern is floating slightly.
7. Put truck emergency brake on, then put it in park. Exit vehicle with trusty wheel chock in hand. I use a rubber one.
8. Put wheel chock behind rear wheel on driver side.
9. Take rope that you tied to bow cleat and wrap one full turn around trailer winch post. rope should be tight from cleat to bow winch post. This will act as your launching come along.
10. Take safety chain off. While holding rope in left hand tightly, loosen winch cable until rope in left hand becomes tight with the weight of the boat. Now remove winch line from boat completely.
11. Once the winch cable is removed, use rope wrapped around winch post to slowly let boat slide off trailer into water until completely floating. This is done by keeping the rope wrapped around winch post but slowly letting the line out until the boat floats completely
12. Once the boat is floating completly off the trailer, use the rope to pull your boat around to the tie off spot.
13. Once boat is tied off, retrieve wheel chock and pull truck/trailer to parking spot.

Now, loading alone is quite easy also. This is what I do.

1. Stage boat at loading ramp and wait your turn.
2. Get truck/trailer while waiting.
3. When your turn is up, back trailer in so axles are about half way in the water.
4. Set emergency brake first and then take out of gear into park. In this order it will help you get the truck in gear when pulling out.
5. Once in park, exit vehicle with trusty wheel chock in hand. Put wheel choke under drivers side rear truck wheel.
6. Retrieve boat, drive boat slowly on trailer until bow is centered and basically stopped at the rear of trailer.
7. Tilt motor half way and power up until boat loads onto trailer all the way up to the bow roller.
8. Keep motor in gear, just powered up enough to keep boat solid to the bow roller and to prevent it from slipping backwards off the trailer..
9. With motor still in gear, walk to the front of boat, bend over bow and hook safety chain up. Then hook winch cable to bow ring. Crank winch cable until tight.
10. Once boat is firmly winched, walk back to helm. Do not shut off motor yet but idle down. Still work to be done here.
11. Look over both starboard and port and make sure stern of boat is centered on the trailer. If it isn't centered, use your motor to center the stern of the boat by turning the wheel right or left and throttling the motor enough tell the stern moves where you want it.
12.Once completely satisfied your boat is centered, shut motor off and tilt motor all the way up.
13.I usually at this point, walk to bow and step off on back of tailgate on truck to exit the boat.
14.Next, do not remove chock, chances are you wouldn't be able to anyway because of the weight that has been put on it..
15.Get in truck and after putting foot on brake heavily, put truck into low gear. Now remove emergency brake.
16.Slowly pull trailer up to top of ramp and stop. Put emergency brake on and into park. Retrieve your chock so no one runs over it.
17. Walk back to truck and pull boat to area away from ramp where you can install your safety stern straps and make sure the boat is ready for road travel. Antennaes etc.

Bye the way, this will work with almost any size trailerable boat. So you know, the boat I have now weighs in fully loaded at around 8000 pounds and I load and off load myself all the time. Only difference is with different boats is the access to the bow. Fortunately, mine is a walkaround and all the other boats I had were center console so my method has worked just fine. By the way, no accidents at the ramp ever for me!

Takes all of about 2 minutes. Ok, maybe 3 minutes. Take your time and don't let anyone rush you. Practice makes perfect, try it when the ramp is least busy, usually during the week. Hope this helps someone.
By the way, this will work with a bunk or roller trailer if properly set up to be driven on.. I really prefer that no one helps me at the ramp, it is much easier to do myself.
This is the boat I trailer now, load and offload myself.
016-5.jpg
 

chrome dome

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

driving on is how we load most of the time but we'll just leave in gear at idle or at most just above idle,

however did see something like what the OP is referring to awhile ago,

beach/sand retrieval out of a channel...with no concrete ramps...normal in this particular area,

fella and his wife in a 15ft or so bow rider
it was hot...so was she LOL..she jumped out to back the 4wd and trailer to the water while he did donuts, he lined the trailer up and gave it too many herbs, went on crooked and hit the winch post hard but didn't appear to break anything, let it roll back and got it straight this time but still had the donk revving far too hard, had a foot or so to hook up the safety chain but HE wouldn't let his wife use the winch to pull it up the last little bit, even though she wanted to,
according to him, that was the only way to do it, as it was a drive-on trailer, he was getting stroppy by now and moved forward to see why his wife couldn't get the chain on..and give her another serve of crap..
she had her head between the bow and winch post trying to hook up the chain and with the change of "ballast" in the boat it moved forward rapidly towards the post..and her very pretty head...which she just managed to get out of the way to avoid having it re-arranged..

the language that subsequently emanated from that angelic face made us all blush..

be careful, which ever way you load, don't assume it will work out just because that's the way you've always done it
 

109jb

Lieutenant Commander
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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

Quote regarding powerloading - "Its not illegal in the majority of the states and shouldn't be. Gubberment already has taken over most your rights!"

You mean the government (state or local) that built the ramp, which is the same government that maintains the ramp, and the same government that has to fix the ramp from the damage due to powerloading??
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I don't agree with leaving the helm with the boat in gear and at power,it's unsafe and there's no reason for it if the trailer is backed in at the proper depth.

As far as power loading, it's the norm around here. We have hard clay/rock bottoms on our lakes and the only way you're going to disturb the bottom is if you hit it with your prop, then you'll be buying a new prop.

People that winch load around here are either laughed at or given the stink eye and ridiculed for taking too long at the ramp.
 

04fxdwgi

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I don't agree with leaving the helm with the boat in gear and at power,it's unsafe and there's no reason for it if the trailer is backed in at the proper depth.

As far as power loading, it's the norm around here. We have hard clay/rock bottoms on our lakes and the only way you're going to disturb the bottom is if you hit it with your prop, then you'll be buying a new prop.

People that winch load around here are either laughed at or given the stink eye and ridiculed for taking too long at the ramp.

Same here, except concrete ramps extend way out and are not at an extremely steep angle.. Power loading is the norm and trying to winch my 2550 SX up on the bunk trailer is extremely difficult at best. Probably would pull bow eye thru hull winching 5,000+ pounds uphill (even slightly up hill) across bunks.. Boat doesn't want to move with winch, even when sitting flat in the prep area. The little goose on the throttle squats the stern down and lightens the bow, allowing her a better angle of attack to the trailer. I guess that's where the roller trailers shine, but I don't have one and don't know.

I can see how soft bottom ramps would present a whole new set of problems and make power loading a no-no. I just don't go to those rams. Simple.

Step#
1. Back trailer into water, covering fenders.
2. Raise drive unit to trailer position.
3. Drive onto trailer at, or just above idle speed, till she stops, give a little throttle snap, return to idle and leave in gear.
4. Have driver back in some more as boat edges forward onto trailer up to bow stops with a little throttle help.
5. While still in gear, connect cable and safety chain and winch tight.
6. Shut down engine and raise drive unit.
7. Pull out of water to prep area and do what I gotta do to get ready to drive off.
8. After a couple of miles of trailering, pull over and make sure everything is settled in place and tight.

Simple and takes less than 60 seconds. No harm, no foul.
 

skargo

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I winch my near 5K lb/ boat maybe 2', if you have to winch it more than that set your trailer up correctly. I walk it on, it hits the self centeringroller and then I hook my winch strap up. My bow eye is in no danger, what a silly thought, they are MADE to be winched from.

IMHO powerloading=laziness. And what the O{ was referring too, leaving the engine in gear could absolutely be dangerous, what is the winch stand was loose, or had corroded bolts? :rolleyes:
 

kahuna123

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

Sorry non power loaders. That's how it is done here. But we do have concrete ramps.
 

golf101

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

The OP's point was not about power loading (which I do because I've got a 6000 lb boat that is nearly impossible to wench without breaking the wench strap, which I've done, and my ramp goes well into the water). It was about leaving the boat in gear while he hangs over the front to attach the wench strap. Like the OP, I can't see any reason for that. Leaving it in idle, yes. Leaving it in gear, no way. Is he afraid it's going to slide off? If so, his trailer is probably in too deep. Anyone actually had their boat slide off the trailer while loading and before they got the wench strap attached? I've never had a bass boat, so maybe that's a bigger deal on a smaller boat. When mine is on the bunks, there's no way it's going to slide back off if I'm anywhere near the bow stop.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I must be in the minority but I just pull up to the dock, get off and get the trailer, back it down the ramp, then walk my boat up onto my trailer using the bowline. When it's up close enough, I wade into the water and hook up the winch and wind it in. Attach the safety chain, pull it up the ramp a few feet, get out and pull the plug and let her drain what little is in there. Then I drive on out of the ramp area and secure the transom straps and make her ready for the road. The longest part of the whole process is getting the trailer and backing it into position on the ramp to accept the boat.

Yes, my feet get wet but that's why I wear boat shoes. I've yet to get my knees wet.

You are in the minority, but I know other folks that do the same. An older guy I know puts on his hip waders to trailer the boat... and I ain't kiddin'!:D
 

04fxdwgi

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I winch my near 5K lb/ boat maybe 2', if you have to winch it more than that set your trailer up correctly. I walk it on, it hits the self centeringroller and then I hook my winch strap up. My bow eye is in no danger, what a silly thought, they are MADE to be winched from.

IMHO powerloading=laziness. And what the O{ was referring too, leaving the engine in gear could absolutely be dangerous, what is the winch stand was loose, or had corroded bolts? :rolleyes:

WOW... Tough crowd here. Do what works best for ya and is OK for your area and conditions..... IMHO

I guess you have indeed launched / loaded on these ramps that I use to be able to make "if you have to winch it more than that set your trailer up correctly" a valid statement. So I will see about setting up my trailer correctly as you so firmly suggest is the problem area that causes me to damage the concrete on the ramp and bring about further climate change..

It is also said the boat can be lifted off a trailer by the bow eye and transom eyes too, but don't think I'd do it.

Seems to be the power loading, vs: non-power loading crowds are passionate about thier opinions. (PS: everyone is entiltled to an opinion even though it may or may not be correct). But, of course, a statement like "IMHO powerloading=laziness" is getting pretty personal and displaying a "holier than thou" attitude which should probably be kept to one's self.

Cheers and Peace....
 

skargo

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

WOW... Tough crowd here. Do what works best for ya and is OK for your area and conditions..... IMHO

I guess you have indeed launched / loaded on these ramps that I use to be able to make "if you have to winch it more than that set your trailer up correctly" a valid statement. So I will see about setting up my trailer correctly as you so firmly suggest is the problem area that causes me to damage the concrete on the ramp and bring about further climate change..

It is also said the boat can be lifted off a trailer by the bow eye and transom eyes too, but don't think I'd do it.

Seems to be the power loading, vs: non-power loading crowds are passionate about thier opinions. (PS: everyone is entiltled to an opinion even though it may or may not be correct). But, of course, a statement like "IMHO powerloading=laziness" is getting pretty personal and displaying a "holier than thou" attitude which should probably be kept to one's self.

Cheers and Peace....
No need to get so defensive or to take it personally, I made my statements based on MY ramps, and what I see there. Calm down, everything isn't aimed at you my friend.
 

mommicked

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I throttle only enough to get the boat stuck to the bunks, Then I , or a friend on the ramp,winch it the rest of the way to the bow eye.But my boat is fairly lightweight. Im always nervous about people standing at the winch when I throttle the boat on the bunks and do it carefully w little gas as possible.
 

MAXXIE

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I do sort of 1/2 & 1/2. I go alone most of the time & don't want to take too much time on the ramp. I'll idle it onto the trailer, put the drive in N, walk to the bow & see how far away from the roller I am & if I need to I'll drop it in Drive & give it a bump of the gas just to get it to the roller, shut it down, hook the chain & strap up & drive to the post prep to get it road ready. I really don't think I do any damage to the end of the ramp as I'm not going balls to the wall slamming it onto the trailer. I've tried to just float it onto the trailer & winch it the rest of the way up, but that really takes more time on the ramp than I want to be there & it's a real PITA cranking it up high enough to hook it up. Just my .02
 

QC

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

Moved to Trailers. Relax or this is gone . . . ;)
 

kahuna123

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

Not only did I power load my 26ft 8 thousand pound Dusky on the trailer. I also used the inboard to help the truck get it up the ramp. :eek:
I understand not doing it in the mud. But you show what you don't know when you make comments like what started this thread. We have steep concrete ramps down here and our trailers are MADE to power load.

I wouldn't go to Miami to get snow ski lessons.
 

gtochris

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I have done that technique before, it works when you need to be quick. Some boats also will not stay remotely on the trailer without forward throttle applied.
 

DBreskin

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

Every ramp is different; some tolerate power loading and some forbid it. I've been to ramps that consisted of concrete railroad ties embedded in the ground about six inches apart; if you power load there you'll wash out the lakebed between the ties and the ramp will disappear.

Here are a couple of links for those who think power loading is OK anywhere:
http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/water_access/powerloading.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q31Wl7Ten5o

If you're at a long concrete ramp there's little danger of ramp damage from power loading.

I don't power load; my roller trailer is set up so that I can use a dock line attached to a bow cleat to walk the boat within 2 feet of the bow stop. I winch the last 2 feet.
 

chriscraft254

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If you want to do extra work, when you don't have to, more power to ya! If the winch stand was loose or the bolts were corroded, winching on would put more stress on it, than power loading and not having to winch it up!! Duhh Also, if the winch stand is loose or corroded, shame on the person that allows that to happen. A wrench and some wd-40 goes along was. ;)
I winch my near 5K lb/ boat maybe 2', if you have to winch it more than that set your trailer up correctly. I walk it on, it hits the self centeringroller and then I hook my winch strap up. My bow eye is in no danger, what a silly thought, they are MADE to be winched from.

IMHO powerloading=laziness. And what the O{ was referring too, leaving the engine in gear could absolutely be dangerous, what is the winch stand was loose, or had corroded bolts? :rolleyes:

Hey man, I can attest, on a roller trailer with a boat like mine, on a ramp that is pretty steep, the boat if not left in gear will indeed slide backwards. The trick, like I stated in an earlier post is to leave it in gear and throttled just enough to keep it there so you can hook up the winch strap/safety chain. There is nothing wrong with bending over the bow to hook the saetfy chain up at the very least.
Since I boat alone most times, this is a must for me and has worked flawless for 25 years. I'm still waiting for one of these people that say its dangerous to explain why its dangerous! :rolleyes:
The OP's point was not about power loading (which I do because I've got a 6000 lb boat that is nearly impossible to wench without breaking the wench strap, which I've done, and my ramp goes well into the water). It was about leaving the boat in gear while he hangs over the front to attach the wench strap. Like the OP, I can't see any reason for that. Leaving it in idle, yes. Leaving it in gear, no way. Is he afraid it's going to slide off? If so, his trailer is probably in too deep. Anyone actually had their boat slide off the trailer while loading and before they got the wench strap attached? I've never had a bass boat, so maybe that's a bigger deal on a smaller boat. When mine is on the bunks, there's no way it's going to slide back off if I'm anywhere near the bow stop.

I'm not going to turn this political, but who do you think pay the government to maintain the ramps! Yes that would be you and me. Its about time our money went to something that is benificial to having fun! If I want to power load, that should be and is still my right in many states. Where I live, the ohio river will cause much more damage to the bottom than any boater ever could. If the ramp gets dug out, the ohio puts it back. It is the job of the state to take care of our state ramps, its called maintenance, guess we shouldn't drive on the roads because it might cause a pot hole to form. ;)
Quote regarding powerloading - "Its not illegal in the majority of the states and shouldn't be. Gubberment already has taken over most your rights!"

You mean the government (state or local) that built the ramp, which is the same government that maintains the ramp, and the same government that has to fix the ramp from the damage due to powerloading??
 

RandyJ

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

It's the proverbial saying... opinions are like azzholes, everybody's got one. There are so many different conditions and variables that one size does not fit all. I live on a lake that most boat ramps are very steep and power loading is common. Virtually every ramp is concrete as the lake level fluctuates about 20 ft seasonally making it reasonable to pour a concrete ramp in the winter when the lake is very low. I have several boats from a 12 ft v-hull to a 23 ft cabin cruiser weighing near 7,000 lbs. All load differently. In the winter I welcome power loading. The ramps are just too steep to float on most of the time. If I'm lucky and can get it right then I can float right up to the winch post. If there is wind or current then it's about impossible to float up and keep the boat straight on the trailer so power loading is almost necessary. Quite a bit of the time I'm loading or unloading in the cooler seasons so it's not a matter of being lazy as much as keeping from freezing my azz off.
 

Philster

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Re: Boat Ramp Darwinism at Work

I launch at so many ramps and types it boggles the mind. I will haul my boat, which comes in at just under 27 feet and about 5500 lbs loaded up (6700 w/traielr), to ramps along the Atlantic ocean/Jersey shore, the Delaware Bay, lower Chesapeake, Upper Chesapeake, various canals, harbors, rivers, lakes.... name it. I've been on ramps that were darn near 45 degree of angle feeling like mountain ridges, and some that were perfectly sloped and appeared 100% concrete, but for the ever-loving sake of Og, I think --I think -- one was all concrete... still not sure. Most have some type of modified paver/stone intelocking setup, or some series of concrete sections, which are set in something.

I always seem to get my boat, very gracefully, to within about 2' of the winch hook. I winch for what.... 45 seconds? One time, I think I was 3' away in a storm, just to leave room for error.

Okay, so some of you midwesterners or inland folks go to the happy lake of perfection and have perfect l'il ol' concrete ramps that are impervious to power loading. God bless you! Darn near every stinkin' thread on here about ramp nightmares is loaded with the inlanders complaining. So, don't be pattin' yourselves on your proverbial backs.

Yeah, if you do business on Lake Perfect in what is usually Boat Ramp Hell, and you know that your l'il ol' ramp is super concrete all the way out and you are bolstered by the law (ain't illegal 'round 'ere)... Keep on Powerloading. Heck, get a tattoo that says that.

But for the vast, diverse group of boaters, I cannot see how power loading should be a standard. The other way is just better as a standard technique in many situations. But, since it's not 100% true either way, and you got the ramp or the need to power load.... so be it. I just don't like when it happens in areas where it shouldn't and when it isn't needed.

.
 
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