Boat will not pull out of the hole as it should.

[q7myfirstboat]

Let me start with, I am new and have been using google as much as possible, but I have a 01 Tahoe Q7 with 5.0 220HP motor and it will just not pull out like it should. It takes a good 2 minutes just to achieve WOT. Majority of the time, I have to put wife up front just to get it rolling. Trim works as it should. Once achieved, only running 3800 RPMS and about 41 MPH, if that. Something is not right, but just looking for a little direction. Since purchase, I have changed oil, replaced water/gas separator along with running a can of seafoam in separator and fixed electrical issues which was a bad ground. I checked linkage, all appears to be right.....The motor cranks right and sounds great.

So, I will start with prop, according to serial number, it's a 14.5x21 pitch...... Would you recommend a different prop, or shoot me in another direction.

 

[steelespike]

Numbers seem ok but lacks hole shot and wot rpm.You need to go through the numbers. Perhaps down a cylinder or perhaps the throttle doesn't open all the way.
Timing set wrong? Wot should be about 50.Prop needs a tune up or replacement but be sure about motor operation first.

 

[redmen62]

It sounds to me that you're over-propped... you're 500ish RPM under your WOT range. I'd suggest going to a 17p prop

 

[jwdavis28]

Did it run right previously? Have you changed anything on the boat?

 

[Starcraft5834]

combine these recommendations.. some good ones.... verify that your throttle pushed full is actually,, "full throttle", check your throttle control cable.. assuming your engine is healthy and your throttle is right.. I'd agree 21p is to much prop... if you want to jump out of the hole, get a 4 blade prop, perhaps 17p.. your wife wont have to pile to the front of the boat.. with a 4 blade you will be on plane (assuming your engine is ok) in about 5 seconds... yes, they can make that much of a difference... from 3 to 4..blade

 

[jimmbo]

Your engine WOT RPM range is 4400-4800. As mentioned before, first thing to do is check that the throttle blades are opening fully. I doubt it has a 4bbl, but if does then some way of verifying the secondaries are opening. Then check to see if the timing is set correctly and is advancing as the rpms go up. Have you done a compression test? I have no idea how big a Tahoe 7 is, but if it is longer than 18 ft, a 21 inch prop, with your gear ratio is too much prop. But your engine does appear weak

 

[Sea Rider]

If engine and tach are100% healthy and fully operational, check current prop, cuold be on its way for hub to become spun...

Happy Boating

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Thank you for all the replies. As far as the boats, it's 22' long and dry weight is 4400#'s. The linkage all appears to be correct along with butterflies, along with good steams squirting into the carb. I have not done a compression test, but I really need to, or in reality, should have done that prior to purchase, but that's behind me now. I am not knowledgeable enough to adjust timing, but I will find a way to have some one qualified to do it. I believe the tach is correct. At idle it hovers around 8000 to 1000 and appears to operate correctly. Last weekend I went WOT for 45 minutes and stayed at 40 mph....Based on that and motor sound, I don't think it's a motor issues, but very well could be. Guy I bought it from said they plugs were done, I pulled a few wires and verified externally..... pulled cap and all looks good if that matters. I have taken it out twice... first time about 7 hours straight and $155 later lol. This weekend for another 4 hours.

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Other than that, I've done normal BS we all do.. speakers, a gauge, changed separator and ran seafoam. I have not changed fuel filter or separator plate? I will change both of those for peace of mind. Oil was changed and still clear as it was upon putting in. Water temps never exceeds 170...Lube is good on the outboard and can tell it was recently changed. Only other thing I have noticed, when going forward or reverse, I have to push well past the first notch to get it to engage. Otherwise, it's almost like it's trying to catch... hope that makes sense. Once I do that, I can push back to the first notch for slow forward/reverse.

 

[q7myfirstboat]

No Title

Here's the boat itself...

 

[Starcraft5834]

As mentioned you should get engine compression checked, if okay, I believe fix is less pitch on prop. If engine is tired..same fix, less pitch on prop. Performance is determined based on engine power, weight of boat, hull design and more...engines can get "tired", less pitch is best way to get your tac numbers around 4500...4 blade 17p is what I'd do... $125 fix

 

[jimmbo]

Now that you've said length and weight, you are definitely over propped for your engine and gear ratio. A 16 or 17 should put pretty close where you will need to be. Get rid of any unneeded weight. Kids, wife, mother-in-law fit in that category. Girlfriends and Mistresses have no deterrence on boat performance, so they can stay aboard

 

[q7myfirstboat]

As mentioned you should get engine compression checked, if okay, I believe fix is less pitch on prop. If engine is tired..same fix, less pitch on prop. Performance is determined based on engine power, weight of boat, hull design and more...engines can get "tired", less pitch is best way to get your tac numbers around 4500...4 blade 17p is what I'd do... $125 fix

I will check compression, meantime, I will buy a 4 blade prop. Thanks for the input.

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Now that you've said length and weight, you are definitely over propped for your engine and gear ratio. A 16 or 17 should put pretty close where you will need to be. Get rid of any unneeded weight. Kids, wife, mother-in-law fit in that category. Girlfriends and Mistresses have no deterrence on boat performance, so they can stay aboard

I like the way you think ))))))))))))))))))

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Thanks folks... I will read up and finish the job. http://boatpropellers.iboats.com/Me...material=&search_blades=4&search_rotation=1,2

 

[jimmbo]

If you wanna go with a 4 blade( I myself wouldn't ), you might have to drop down to a 15. The will reduce your top end but the extra blade would hold the water better at speeds like 25-30 mph. In the speed range your boat will see there really isn't any real speed gain using a SS instead of AL. SS isn't all its cracked up to be, One good impact and your are buying a new propshaft and maybe gears. Don't let anybody say it can be straightened, two bendings do not increase its strength

 

[q7myfirstboat]

....

 

[q7myfirstboat]

If you wanna go with a 4 blade( I myself wouldn't ), you might have to drop down to a 15. The will reduce your top end but the extra blade would hold the water better at speeds like 25-30 mph. In the speed range your boat will see there really isn't any real speed gain using a SS instead of AL. SS isn't all its cracked up to be, One good impact and your are buying a new propshaft and maybe gears. Don't let anybody say it can be straightened, two bendings do not increase its strength

Yea, still reading, I am going Cheapo... I go to Lake Jackson in GA and there's some rough patches. Slowly gathering everything I need.

 

[Starcraft5834]

YUP-- what Jimbo said..

get a aluminum prop,,, u hit something with that the blade will bend and your prop shaft wont.... SS hit., that's hard metal,, your prop shaft might bend...

 

[Silvertip]

Until you verify engine condition and state of tune, don't buy any prop. You've had the boat out only twice. Make a few more runs to be sure what you "think" is happening isn't something else. And by the way -- if wide open throttle nets you only 3800 rpm, the current prop does not have a spun hub. Also, your idle rpm number of 8000 to 1000 is really 800 - 1000.