Bravo 3 method to confirm coupler is gone?

[IdahoDoug]

Re: Bravo 3 method to confirm coupler is gone?

Got it - thanks guys! The used coupler looked great and is mounted. The engine is back in and aligned. The outdrive is back on. Just an hours work for tomorrow to put the seats back in the rear and the engine hatch/sunpad back on.

I found a loose motor mount (bolts attaching to stringer), and read a suggestion here to check the transom inner mount bolts - great advice. I found all but one of my transom bolts were uncomfortably loose and these are impossible to reach with the engine in. Nothing seemed to have moved and the motor mount has been that way since the factory - yeesh - I could spin the washer easily.

So for those who may find themselves in this situation, I was able to do this all myself in about 10 hours. The used coupler was $130 with shipping, tipped a boat shop owner $10 to use the alignment tool in his parking lot, and bought a $10 deep socket for the motor mounts. Back on the water in a week's time. The shops wanted $1200 to do this and couldn't get to it till mid August. Will put the boat in Sunday, so wish me luck.

One item I'm having trouble finding are the torque specs for the outdrive. The 6 bolts on the Bravo 3. For some reason, manual #11 (outdrives) is not loading for me so if anyone has that, please post. Thanks!

DougM

 

[Pete104]

Re: Bravo 3 method to confirm coupler is gone?

10 hrs my ***. You spent 5 "just makin' sure"! Took it somewhere to align it & tipped 10bucks. WOW!
And I bet, when the splines go again your gonna blame him! CHEAP SMACK

 

[picklenjim]

Re: Bravo 3 method to confirm coupler is gone?

You talking about the nuts that hold the drive on to the bell. 50 ft.lbs.

 

[picklenjim]

Re: Bravo 3 method to confirm coupler is gone?

10 hrs my ***.

Weren't you the one that stated in the beginning"it'll be a piece of cake"? So is 10 hours more or less than a piece of cake? Figured you would be the one to ask beings it sounds as if you must have had a stop watch on him. As far as using the tool for 10 bucks sounds like him and the mechanic both got a good deal.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Re: Bravo 3 method to confirm coupler is gone?

Jim - yes, thanks! The outdrive is on and up in the trailer position so that I could move it but I hung a note on the steering wheel to remind me to final torque it.

Pete - ya gotta lay off the evening coffee. Yes, 10 hours. Yes, I tipped the guy $10 but it was for the USE of his tool - I did the alignment in his parking lot per prior arrangement with him so there would be no fear of his tool walking off. He waved off the tip and I followed him inside and put in on his desk. Nice guy.

Time wise this was remarkably easy. 6 bolts and your outdrive is laying on the ground. 20 minutes with a battery powered screwdriver and the upholstery's laying on the lawn. Then it's about 20 wire connections, a fuel line, power steering lines, and then you remove the riser clamps and then 4 motor mount bolts. I am meticulous and wrote every thing I touched and what wires were on it such as "upper left bellhousing stud had 2 small black wires and one thick wire on it" for ease of reassembly. I blew an hour with the hand winch actually connected and just being scared to lift that thing. I googled it and a fully dressed 7.4 weighs over 1000 lbs.

So, I'll stick with 10 hours. My 10 year old son "helped" for a bit on teardown, but I did all assembly alone and am just a 170lb regular joe. Going backwards through the written notes helps whiz through reassembly. You don't waste any time at all wondering "hmm, were those spark plug brackets on this bolt, or THAT bolt...?" A trick I picked up from restoring cars in college a very very long time ago.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Re: Bravo 3 method to confirm coupler is gone?

Well, great news this morning. My little man and I tossed the boat in the water this morning and we're all heading out for the day on a jewel of a lake. As soon as I started it, I noticed the absence of a "scritchy" faint rattling sound that the boat had come to exhibit over the last year or two in Neutral or dead idle. Suspect as others have noted on this forum that idling causes the spline wear as the shaft gets momentary slack back and forth. Then once the engine warmed I took it up to normal and then WOT eventually and the powertrain was clearly smoother than before the coupler went. I suspect as the splines wore so thin they were close to failing that the shaft was able to move radially and cause a faint vibration. With the tight splines it is again smooth. I'm pleased, and appreciate the help. I'll look forward to hanging around here a bit this summer. Before I forget, a shortcut/tip. When removing the shifter cables don't remove each cable and barrel adjuster which then requires adjustment on reassembly. I found it easier to remove the entire bracket that holds both cables. It was 3 nuts and does not disturb the adjustment.

DougM