Bravo drive is hard to shift into reverse?

[Matts5150]

I'm having the same issue I have a bravo 3 it shifts forward without issue but when I try to shift in reverse it's extremely hard but once I get past the first point then it shifts into reverse freely. Going to try the steps above and if it shifts freely following steps above my guess is it would have to be either the cable or the shift box by the helm? Does the shift box by the helm ever have to be lubricated?? I have a 2007 Sea Ray. If so is it a difficult task ..do I have to pull the whole shift box down from the interior of the boat to get in there to spray some WD-40 or whatever recommended lubricant any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[alldodge]

Looks like you posted in a old thread and the thread was closed. Then copy/paste your comment on a new thread

The Bravo should shift smooth in either direction and only when the motor is running. Don't try to shift with motor off

Shifter should be greased with a lithium based grease. WD40 is not a lube, its a water displacement product. Great for washing something that has been dunked in the water

Adjust the cable to spec and if there is still problems you may need a new lower shift cable. With motor running and shift cable disconnected from shift plate, it should be easy to shift using only your hands pull the cable in/out

 

[Matts5150]

Looks like you posted in a old thread and the thread was closed. Then copy/paste your comment on a new thread

The Bravo should shift smooth in either direction and only when the motor is running. Don't try to shift with motor off

Shifter should be greased with a lithium based grease. WD40 is not a lube, its a water displacement product. Great for washing something that has been dunked in the water

Adjust the cable to spec and if there is still problems you may need a new lower shift cable. With motor running and shift cable disconnected from shift plate, it should be easy to shift using only your hands pull the cable in/out

Great thanks for the reply I assume the lower cable is for reverse?

 

[dubs283]

I assume the lower cable is for reverse?

Lower cable is for complete shifting, fwd/neu/rev

Think of it as an extension of the cable from the remote. Remote cable attaches to the top of the shift plate on engine, lower cable attaches to bottom of shift plate at the engine and fits into the bellhousing and connects to the shift link arm in the drive.

Most common resolve for your issue is to replace the lower shift cable. First adjust it according to the oem manual, if the issue persists replace the lower cable. If the issue still persists there may be an issue with the shift link arm or something inside the drive

 

[Matts5150]

Lower cable is for complete shifting, fwd/neu/rev

Think of it as an extension of the cable from the remote. Remote cable attaches to the top of the shift plate on engine, lower cable attaches to bottom of shift plate at the engine and fits into the bellhousing and connects to the shift link arm in the drive.

Most common resolve for your issue is to replace the lower shift cable. First adjust it according to the oem manual, if the issue persists replace the lower cable. If the issue still persists there may be an issue with the shift link arm or something inside the drive

Thanks a bunch for the advice sounds like great advice I'm going to try those things sometime this week to see if I could figure out what my issue is sometimes it goes into reverse a lot smoother especially after day of being out on the water this all started this season so I almost feel like something needs lubrication somewhere I just had to drive redone about 2 years ago

 

[tpenfield]

If you've got one of those big ugly quicksilver throttle/shift control units, you can probably lift the cover and get at the mechanical stuff. (Assuming you do not have DTS on that boat ??? )

Fogging oil is your friend (keep the WD-40 for another use.) If that fials to improve things, move on back to the engine and make sure the shift mechanism (starboard side of engine) can move freely. If all looks good, then check for proper adjustment (you will need the Bravo shift adjustment tool).

If that fails to improve things . . . well you probably should check in at that point, if not sooner.

 

[dubs283]

back to the engine and make sure the shift mechanism (starboard side of engine) can move freely.

Not all engines have the bravo shift plate assy on the stbd side, FYI

 

[Matts5150]

Thanks everyone for the reply I've done all of the above it turns out it's an issue inside the drive. I've had my mechanic look at it yesterday and he made some adjustments at the shift plate still no go. The lower shift cable was replaced two seasons ago and my mechanic said it's either the clutch or something else going on with the upper unit. Keep in mind 2 years ago I had a different mechanic do a bunch of stuff on my bravo 3 and one of the things he didn't do that he recommended to leave it alone was the fact that I was missing one of the teeth on the reverse gear so my new mechanic seems to think that could have had something to do with the reason why I'm having this problem now. Either way he pointed me more in the direction of just going with a new upper unit instead of tinkering around he said to spend a little more money if I really like the boat and just get a whole upper unit I'm curious what everyone's thoughts are? I do really like the boat and from what he described seems to make more sense to just go with a whole upper unit rather than trying to mess with stuff and losing more boat time. Your thoughts on this everyone? Thanks again.
Attached a picture of my reverse gear my first mechanic sent me 2 years ago when he was rebuilding the drive and recommended to just leave it alone.

 

[racerone]

Are you sure that is the reverse gear ??

 

[alldodge]

While getting a new upper will fix the issue, some mechanics say to replace because they are not skilled enough or don't want to spend the time. Replacing the gear, upper shift shaft and clutch should fix the drive.

Note: some shops use lube other then Merc lube because its cheaper. If they do, this can cause more wear

 

[Matts5150]

Are you sure that is the reverse gear ??

That gear is what came out of my drive and went back in the same way 2 years ago I'm only sure based on what my previous mechanic said before he put it back in the drive he said that it was my reverse gear. I'm not sure if this new issue why it's not going in reverse if it has something to do with the reverse gear being damaged from the beginning and not taking care of at first when my first mechanic noticed it not sure why but he recommended to leave it alone and put it back in so here I am today with a problem now my boat not going into reverse.

 

[Matts5150]

While getting a new upper will fix the issue, some mechanics say to replace because they are not skilled enough or don't want to spend the time. Replacing the gear, upper shift shaft and clutch should fix the drive.

Note: some shops use lube other then Merc lube because its cheaper. If they do, this can cause more wear

I agree with you and make sense but supposedly this new mechanic is a Merc authorized repair technician. He didn't say or push me in any way to go with the new upper unit he just said for a little bit more money if I really like the boat he recommends replacing the upper unit. He only came yesterday for the first time while the boat was still in the water he hasn't even seen the drive and cracked it open he was just basing on things from his experience. Even though maybe it can be fixed but correct me if I'm wrong if we're only talking roughly $2,000 more to get a whole new upper unit and having two year warranty and having the boat possibly done quicker wouldn't that make more sense overall?

 

[racerone]

delete

 

[Scott06]

if we're only talking roughly $2,000 more

Absolutely, just depends on how an extra $2k fits into your finances. Its a couple hour job to remove drive replace the upper and reinstall you'd be back on the water quicker with less risk.

 

[Matts5150]

Absolutely, just depends on how an extra $2k fits into your finances. Its a couple hour job to remove drive replace the upper and reinstall you'd be back on the water quicker with less risk.

Thanks...makes me feel better about my decision. I'll do the math when I get a proper estimate for new upper.

 

[Scott06]

Thanks...makes me feel better about my decision. I'll do the math when I get a proper estimate for new upper.

As long as you are doing that check your lower for corrosion. I think by 07 they were better than the earlier B3's but there is a corrosion potential with these drives. No sense putting a new upper on a corroded lower.