Re: Breaking wave (amazing!)...
I used to surf this spot a lot. It's Ocean Beach in San Francisco. Needless to say, if the driver knew anything about the break at this spot he never would have been where he was. None of the waves he dealt with when he turned to port broke. He was on the outer bar and they tend to roll and then back off. You can see this if you watch the video until the end. He would have been fine if he didn't gun it but I am sure his inexperience made him think the wave was going to break. I am sure it looked like it was going to break from his vantage point. Only a person with a lot of experience in the surf at this spot would have determined that it was okay to go slower straight into the wave but that person never would have been there in the first place.
I used to surf this spot a lot. It's Ocean Beach in San Francisco. Needless to say, if the driver knew anything about the break at this spot he never would have been where he was. None of the waves he dealt with when he turned to port broke. He was on the outer bar and they tend to roll and then back off. You can see this if you watch the video until the end. He would have been fine if he didn't gun it but I am sure his inexperience made him think the wave was going to break. I am sure it looked like it was going to break from his vantage point. Only a person with a lot of experience in the surf at this spot would have determined that it was okay to go slower straight into the wave but that person never would have been there in the first place.