Broken transom

[Woodonglass]

Re: Broken transom

My advise is for you to do extensive searching on this forum for Transom repairs. You need to thorougly understand the process and obviously you do not. Here is a good one to start with. I highly recommend you take the time to read the entired thread.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=441929&highlight=parrisw

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Broken transom

The extensive search in a great idea and should be followed.

However the only picture I've seen so far is where the engine mount is gone thru the outter skin and one with the top trim removed. Can we see a picture of the whole boat, so we can see what type boat we have and how the cap needs to come off.

To repair this transom right, you need "full" access to it, just what you can get to from crawling around ain't gonna get it.... Post some full view pictures and read, read, read. Then we will start with the repairs.

CW

 

[sti1471]

Re: Broken transom

Yeah I have read a bunch on the actual repair of the transom, however
I am just not sure where to cut the cap. I know the cut lines are different
on all boats, and that is why I want to make sure where to cut.

However after looking at the boat, I think what I might want to do
is use the Nida-bond. By doing this I only need to cut the top cap to gut the wood out.
from my measurements, I only need to order 1 to fill the transom according to
their website. Also it will be much easier than replacing the wood with new wood.

The total cost for the nida-core would be like 140.00. I think I might end up
spending that much with the wood, epoxy, fiberglass, filler, clamps, and a new saw blade.

However here is a picture I took of the boat this morning now that the engine is disconnected from the boat.

The yellow shows where I will cut if I do Nida-bond, and the red shows where I am thinking I need to cut if I add wood sheets.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Broken transom

The total cost for the nida-core would be like 140.00. I think I might end up
spending that much with the wood, epoxy, fiberglass, filler, clamps, and a new saw blade.

Yea..multiply that times 10 at least .. for gear and materials your more like 1500+ ( and thats if your stringers are ok ).

I personally dont see the benefit of a trans pour on this job. You need to take the cap off.

You dont need to Cut it..just remove the rubrail insert and remove the fasteners holding your Cap on. .. Then its open and clear season to go to the full resto if you need/want.

Your wanting to get a chainsaw and cut/gut your transom .. then fill it with Nida .. then cap it with glass. Just too little information again.

I would not Sleeve your transom with Ply and resin. You need to cut it out from the inside as stated Numerous times on this thread to do it right.

Your looking for answers that you can accept .. Hard to do on a pro forum like this one.

YD.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Broken transom

I think this one looks like a great candidate for a pourable transom (assuming the stringers are solid).

 

[island mike]

Re: Broken transom

..I just read this whole thread and I am getting kind of Pi$$ed,How many times do we have to explain the same thing,man?DO IT RIGHT ..dont be a threat to other boaters and either fix the right way it or toss it.
I fish myself,but I would never jeapordize anybody including myself thats why I did a complete rebuilt.Boats aint cheap its just the way it is.And forget about the honeycomb (nidacore)Thats a very specialized material to work with and not suitable for transom rebuilts..

 

[sti1471]

Re: Broken transom

I am repairing it right, that is why I said I am doing new wood or nida-bond. I have decided to do new wood. The old transom wood has been gutted, and I am ready to cut the new wood templates as soon as I get back from my business trip.

I got 23/32 exterior grade plywood and searched the stack and found the one with no cracks, holes as it is a very nice looking sheet. Got the glassing materials, and resins. I hope to have it done by the end of this weekend. Thanks to all those who helped me decide to do it the right way. Now that the cap has been removed and the wood gutted, I am glad I decided ot go this route.

I did not gut the wood with the chainsaw. I removed the cap of the transom, and the inner glass side "skin". It was cracked when the motor broke through so I cut that out as well and will reglass the inside skin during the repair.

What do you mean you would not "sleeve" my transom. What does that mean?

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Broken transom

What do you mean you would not "sleeve" my transom. What does that mean?

He means trying to slide new plywood down into the "slot" of the inner and outer skin, no way to get a good bond that way. You're doing it the right way now, I think? You have it down to where you just have the exterior fiberglass skin showing, correct?

This would be a great time for a picture of it before you go any further.

 

[island mike]

Re: Broken transom

Yes! Now your talking!
Pics please!
Good luck with the repair!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Broken transom

CW is "SPOT ON", without pics it is almost impossible for us to help you with this.