Buffing a Boat

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Buffering a Boat

Re: Buffering a Boat

just do a google search on gelcoat repair. spectrum color has some really nice instructions on their website. my searay has about 1/8" of gel, so does the Rogue. my old avanti had only 1/16"

much thicker than automotive paint, hence the forgiveness

 

[Philster]

Re: Buffering a Boat

Re: Buffering a Boat

Calvinator, where'd you get that checkered flag graphic? I've been looking for something like that, but most have just been too plain, too small or too 'something'. That's perfect.

I just ordered new logos, and would kill for that exact style of checkered flag graphic.

 

[captainzac]

Re: Buffering a Boat

Re: Buffering a Boat

If you wet sand then you will need to heavy compound
followe by lt. compound
followed by polish
followed by wax

Thats the only way you can get all the sratches from the wet sand and the compound out

Harry

 

[mpdive]

Re: Buffering a Boat

Re: Buffering a Boat

That's true except with imperial. It is both a compound and polish and removes 800 grit scratches. Probably why it was 40.00 quart. Worth it though....

 

[gtochris]

Re: Buffing a Boat

I have a question along these lines:

I used the Meguires 3 step process and the Oxidation remover followed by the polish made a HUGE improvement. I have since waxed the boat to keep it up.

2 years later It seems I need to re-do that Oxidation remover/ polish step and that the results of my work earlier have either warn off or been covered over with new oxidation, is this enough of a reason to wetsand?

2nd question: My old registration letters were above the rub rail, when I replaced them I put them below the rub rail but where the letters were, the gelcoat is sortof "raised", it is extremely wierd, is this what they call "ghosting"? I have no idea what made the gelcoat expand under the letters. You can only feel it when you run your hand over where they were.

 

[mpdive]

Re: Buffing a Boat

I have a question along these lines:

I used the Meguires 3 step process and the Oxidation remover followed by the polish made a HUGE improvement. I have since waxed the boat to keep it up.

2 years later It seems I need to re-do that Oxidation remover/ polish step and that the results of my work earlier have either warn off or been covered over with new oxidation, is this enough of a reason to wetsand?

2nd question: My old registration letters were above the rub rail, when I replaced them I put them below the rub rail but where the letters were, the gelcoat is sortof "raised", it is extremely wierd, is this what they call "ghosting"? I have no idea what made the gelcoat expand under the letters. You can only feel it when you run your hand over where they were.

A pic would help but it sounds like what I had maybe, like a shadow where they were? As far as the wet sanding goes, try it on an area back by your outdrive or the bottom of your hull so you can be confident of the results. The reason I did mine was that i decided that I would shrink wrap my boat with a roll of shrinkwrap I had laying around. It looked great when I was done. We tarped it and stored it outside. Next spring while taking off the wrap I noticed that water had gotten trapped between the plastic and gelcoat. What resulted was pink mildew spots embedded deep in the clear coat. I tried everything to get them off but nothing worked. That's when the neighbor came over and said to wet sand it. I was paranoid at first thinking of scratching the gel coat like that, but within a couple minutes of hitting it with Imperial I was amazed. I wound up with a showroom finish that is still looking great. Like I said, try it on a 6 by 6 inch area that's out of sight and I think you'll be surprised. Use 1000 grit and keep it wet. Dont over do it. Just until it looks a little dull. Rinse and compound with Imperial on a wool pad, using an orbital on slow speed. Then wax. I did my whole boat but left the upper part dulled and had the yellow stripe shot on. The neighbors thought I purchased a new boat. That's what I wanted to hear!!!

 

[oops!]

Re: Buffing a Boat

the raised area is the glue....there will be discoloration due to uv fading of the gellcoat....the only way to get rid of it is to re gelll the area.....you might do a 400 or even 320 sand and take the first loayer of the gellcoat off....the sand up to 1500 grit then buff and polish....but the ghosting is usually somewhat still there due to the uv fade.

 

[captainzac]

Re: Buffing a Boat

I guess that i look at it different
There is no way to tell how bad the oxidation is unless you can see it and touch it (IMO)
So instead of advising to wet sand I would check an area in reverse
Wax small area first if that does not work then
machine polish in a small area if that does not work
perfect it polish in a small area if that does not work
light compound in a small area if that does not work
heavy compound in a small area if that does not work
wet sand
You want a good shine but you want too achieve it with taking off as little of the gel as possible
but no matter what level of compound that you start with the less aggressive compounds have to be used in that series
can you get a shine with only compound and wax (yes)
but it will not be the best shine and the longest lasting shine

Harry (IMO)

 

[mpdive]

Re: Buffing a Boat

Never tried it through the grades since the imperial is both. I know the regular 3M cutting compound requires a follow up with perfect it. I'm not sure how much better mine could be?

 

[Ramblin'man]

Re: Buffing a Boat

calvinator,

so exactly how did you repaint the vinyl graphic? My blue stripe is very similar to this one and it is also a vinyl decal. So i assume from the posted advice to this thread, that buffering a decal is not really recommended.