Building a fishing boat.

[metalchewy]

Since the last post, made a lot of progress. A whole Lotta sanding. Then applied gluvit down the seams and on every rivet.

The next week, scuffed up the gluvit, etched, washed with simple green a couple of times and applied zinc chromate primer.

Last few days, Scuffed up the primer and put fairing compound down the seam edges and partially filled some dents. Then sanded the compound, added more compound to finish the dents, reprimed the areas that had fairing added after sanding.

Ready for a final scuff and paint. It's not perfect, but after the enamel and then epoxy paint base and top coats of epoxy paint any flaws will mostly dissapear.

 

[metalchewy]

2 coats of rustolum topside enamel. Will be a good base for the white gatorglide.

I know GG is expensive, but with the conditions at the lake, dropping 1-2 feet a week, with new rock hazards on every trip, it will be worth it. The unseen rocks cause worry. A lot of sunken boats out there.

Even trolling in the canoe, we've seen it go from 30ft to 4 feet within a 10 seconds. The fish finder helps map the bottom, but the canoe doesn't run at anything more than 4 mph

A strong slick bottom, with the hardened gatorbase and G2 will help give some peace of mind, for bouncing off vs a hole in the bottom.

Building it to last..

 

[jbcurt00]

Glu-vit is typically applied to the seams amd rivets on the inside of the hull...

 

[mr 88]

I'd be looking for a 30-40 mid to late 60's Johnson/Evinrude, easy to work on and parts are available. I have not heard one good thing about a Force engine and 50 is too much for a 14' aluminum hull to begin with , unless you've re-enforced the transom with angle braces .

 

[metalchewy]

Glu-vit is typically applied to the seams amd rivets on the inside of the hull...

If the outer hull is down to bare metal down the rivets and seams, there are no issues applying gluvit to the exposed rivets and seams prior to painting an aluminim boat. Yes, if leaking, people usually apply it to the inside, but why not seal it where the water comes in, versus the inside where the water pressure is higher?

Also, We do have another quart for the inside seams an rivets, once we get the boat flipped over if for the seam from the gunwall to the bottom, for overkill.

gluvit

When using gluvit to seal leaking rivets after they have been repeaned, do you have to paint the whole bottom of the boat, or just the rivets? Does this have to be done on the outside because of the UV? does this have to be painted over if you use it on the outside bottom? Does it come in...

forums.iboats.com

 

[metalchewy]

I'd be looking for a 30-40 mid to late 60's Johnson/Evinrude, easy to work on and parts are available. I have not heard one good thing about a Force engine and 50 is too much for a 14' aluminum hull to begin with , unless you've re-enforced the transom with angle braces .

Thank You, I appreciate the input. I actually have a Johnson 30, out of a 71 boat in my dad's shop a state away. It's the other option we have. I just need to get it here. Dad wants it gone, just need bring it back on my next trip up there.

It's a lot heavier than the force in my garage, which from what I've read ithe force is closer to 40-45 horse based on some of chrysler's inflated numbers.

The Johnson certainly has a bigger prop on it. It's gone thru two owners (1999 and 2024) before it landed in my hands, so haven't had a chance to asses it yet.

Planning a trip up there to bring it home in a couple weeks.

 

[mr 88]

The Johnson certainly has a bigger prop on it. It's gone thru two owners (1999 and 2024) before it landed in my hands, so haven't had a chance to asses it yet.

The prop should be matched to the maximum rated RPMs of the motor. Ex , motor rated for 5,000 rpm and all you get is 4,400 which means the motor is working hard , using more fuel and shortening its life . The prop has too much pitch in this instance. You can buy a cheap tach online that'll do the job if the boat doesn't have one .